P-Valve Install

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

aaen

Contributor
Messages
415
Reaction score
26
Location
Nanaimo, BC
# of dives
Alright I read through all the threads, but I can;t find the one that describes the little washer that is ironed on to the skin. I have no problem installing this puppy, I just want to avoid any unraveling of the fusion bullet exterior after I cut a hole through it. I am sure it will be fine, this is more or less for peace of mind.

Anyways if you guys can point me to that thread I would appreciate it. For some reason it is not turning up in my search, must be doing something wrong, to early in the morning I think.

Steve
 
Doug nope that is not the one, it was in reference to the skin suit, and cutting the hole to avoid fraying of the material. It was an iron on patch or something. Maybe I read it on another board. Did you get me pm I sent you the other day as well?

Steve
 
alright after having a look at how the inflate and deflate valves are installed it looks as if the bullet skin was just cut out and stretched over the little rubber gasket with nothing else done to protect it from fraying around the area.

I'll get back to you all here in a few hours with how the install goes.
 
I have posted a couple of times. Try searching "Pee valve" and "fusion" in my posts.

If you just cut the hole, it will fray.

I used Iron Mend iron on patch material extending about 1" beyond the hole for the valve. I also used two layers, with a smaller one applied first extending about 1/2" beyound the hole and the second on top extending 1".

The initial attempt with no extra material frayed very quickly but the second attempt has held up very well over about a 100 dives.

If you can't find it send me an e-mail and I'll send pictures and more details.

Also, I used the OMS Sweet Pee rather than the Si tech valve. The last si tech I saw was literally the size of a DS exhaust valve and is larger than needed for a pee valve virtually ensuring it will get in the way.
 
DA Aquamaster,

yes that is the stuff I new I read it somewhere but i couldn't find it in the board even searching. I was probably using p-valve in the search criteria though.

Regardless thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find it and add it on to the suit..

WEll the install went smoothly besides getting caught in a middle of a rain storm last night when I was doing this and having to rush everything inside. Besides all that the install took about a an hour from start to finish. Tested it in the tub then went to the local pond across the street and did a short surface swim. No leaks everything is holding up well.

I took the advice from another member on the board and used some rubber gaskets (basically rubber washers) versus gluing it to the suit. The valve I went with was halcyon as that was all t that was available in the city and I didn't feel like waiting to get one in, kind of impatient that way.

The cutting the hole in the suit was rather interesting took me two beers before I had the nerve to hammer away. Boy was I scared, usually I am patching holes or preventing leaks not creating a hole in a suit. that went smoothly except I was not able to get the 3/4" punch to do it, I had to settle for a 1/2" to punch the suit and the gasket, and manipulate the suit over the valve. Basically I had to take the tube off the valve and literally screw it into the suit. INstall time was ten minutes on the bladder.

The bullet skin was rather interesting I wasn't sure what I was going to do there, The skin actually was sealing off against the valve and not allowing me to blow air out of the p-valve(yes it was in the open position before anyone starts. I was going to leave it without a hole but after noticing this I had no choice. So I took the skin and punched a 3/8" hole into the suit exactly where the valve was. Placed it over and under the valve and voila, You can't even notice any stretching etc, unless I really really stretch around in the suit.

All in all I think a job well done, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who did this prior to me and posting the write up, it was greatly appreciated and very helpful, especially the tip about the rubber gasket instead of gluing.

Steve
 
I have haylcon balanced pee valv under the outer skin (tech LE).
No hole needed. I can open/close valv even thru the outer skin.
 
I just did a drysuit class in the Fusion Sport, and planning to buy one in the near future. I know without a doubt that I will want a pee valve on that suit from the beginning.

I have haylcon balanced pee valv under the outer skin (tech LE).
No hole needed. I can open/close valv even thru the outer skin.

So is the recommended pee valve installation on a Fusion to just punch the inner liner and not go through the outer skin? Seems like that has the advantage of leaving the liner and skin free to move and not attached to each other at the valve point.

I assume one can reach under the outer skin to disassemble the valve for cleaning? And it sounds like the skin is flexible enough to allow the valve to be turned through it?

Thanks for any further info on this.
 
I dont know if whites recomends to go thru outer skin to, but because of the flexibility of the skin, it is no problem to turn the valve on/off (by turning it 1/2 turn at time).
I also dont need to worry to "ripp off" the outer skin , if it is fastened into the valve and exposed for strech stress.
At maintaince You just "roll upp" the skin leg and You can reach the valve.
 

Back
Top Bottom