Oceanic Veo 100 Questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Marek K

Contributor
Messages
1,824
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore-Washington Corridor, MD
I just receive a new Oceanic Veo 100 computer by mail-order. I know, entry-level. My son is going to use my old Sherwood Sigma II computer.

Couple questions about the Veo, if anyone's familiar with it (no hits via search!)... First, what's the purpose of the clear polystyrene plastic cover over the face? It's not watertight at all; water gets right behind it and then dries leaving water spots on the reverse side. Light reflects strangely off of it. And it seems to obscure the nitrogen level and ascent rate markings on the left and right edges of the display. Does this cover have a real purpose, if only to scratch-protect the display? It'd be easy enough to remove it (once), by breaking the plastic tabs holding it in place.

Second, the Veo came with a wrist strap, and I may be happy using it that way. But like a lot of people, I don't think I'd like stuff that big strapped to my wrists. Will the Veo fit into a "standard" (whatever that means) console opening? Oceanic's advertising says it should. But I've got a Sherwood compact SPG, and the Veo module is significantly smaller... it just swims in the SPG's boot. Or do I just need to visit local dive shops (and highlight the fact that I didn't buy the computer form them)?

--Marek
 
I think I answered my own first question. The clear cover on the Oceanic Veo 100 seems to be the "optional" Lens Guard mentioned in the operating manual. I managed to non-destructively pop it off, and the display is much more legible now. And the computer works fine, at least in the pool.

--Marek
 
It won't fit a standard boot... you need an Aeris or Oceanic boot made for it - or there is also a retractor you can get for it that replaces the strap so you can just pop it onto one of your D-rings. For the few extra dollars, I would have tried to talk you into the Aeris Atmos 2 so you had Audible Alarms, flashing led alarms, down load capabilty and the ability to do nitrox... All that would have probably cost you about 80 bucks - but the Air unit is a good unit too.

You may want to leave the scratch protector on. I think you'll find as soon as you go back underwater, you will see the unit fine - and if the face get's scratched up - you'll wish you had left it on.
 
Thanks, Larry. I'll pop the lens guard back on and try it our in the pool this week for visibility.

Audible alarm and LEDs would have been nice, as would nitrox capability some day... but the $169 was about the maximum what I could afford right now.

The Oceanic web site says that the Veo 100 "'Hockey Puck' module is the same size as most depth gauges for easy and inexpensive console upgrades." Plus I was hoping it was substanially identical to the Sherwood Profile, particuarly in dimensions (sure looks like it is, isn't it??) -- and that therefore it would fit into a Sherwood console boot.

--Marek

scubatoys:
It won't fit a standard boot... you need an Aeris or Oceanic boot made for it - or there is also a retractor you can get for it that replaces the strap so you can just pop it onto one of your D-rings. For the few extra dollars, I would have tried to talk you into the Aeris Atmos 2 so you had Audible Alarms, flashing led alarms, down load capabilty and the ability to do nitrox... All that would have probably cost you about 80 bucks - but the Air unit is a good unit too.

You may want to leave the scratch protector on. I think you'll find as soon as you go back underwater, you will see the unit fine - and if the face get's scratched up - you'll wish you had left it on.
 
Marek K:
Thanks, Larry. I'll pop the lens guard back on and try it our in the pool this week for visibility.

Audible alarm and LEDs would have been nice, as would nitrox capability some day... but the $169 was about the maximum what I could afford right now.

The Oceanic web site says that the Veo 100 "'Hockey Puck' module is the same size as most depth gauges for easy and inexpensive console upgrades." Plus I was hoping it was substanially identical to the Sherwood Profile, particuarly in dimensions (sure looks like it is, isn't it??) -- and that therefore it would fit into a Sherwood console boot.

--Marek

Ooops... my screw up... I got a few of them confused in my mind... Short term memory is the first thing to go. Yes, that is a hockey puck size - just like the genesis or sherwood, I was thinking the aeris Atmos 2 sized one... yes a standard boot will set you up.
 
Marek K:
I think I answered my own first question. The clear cover on the Oceanic Veo 100 seems to be the "optional" Lens Guard mentioned in the operating manual. I managed to non-destructively pop it off, and the display is much more legible now. And the computer works fine, at least in the pool.

--Marek

if you don't your screen will become permanently scratched and you'll end up with a piece of junk you can't read.
 
Larry--

Thanks for the clarification! Confirms my theory that if you ask often enough, sooner or later you're gonna hear the answer you want to hear. :eyebrow:

Hey, you sure you meant that the Atmos 2 is different, not the Atmos ai? Aside from the nitrox capability, the Aeris Atmos 2 also looks substantially identical in dimensions to my Oceanic Veo 100 and the Sherwood Profile... as does their entry-level counterpart, the Atmos 1. There's even one image of the Atmos 2 on one web site clearly showing the identical lens guard as my Oceanic.

Anyway, sorry that I'd already ordered the Sherwood console boot before hearing from you.

Um, short-term memory is the second thing to go...

--Marek

scubatoys:
Ooops... my screw up... I got a few of them confused in my mind... Short term memory is the first thing to go. Yes, that is a hockey puck size - just like the genesis or sherwood, I was thinking the aeris Atmos 2 sized one... yes a standard boot will set you up.
 
Larry--

Just got back from 2 weeks diving with the Veo 100 in Egypt.

You were right; the scratch guard works fine in the water. No distortion at all. Just holds a bunch of tiny bubbles when first submerging, but they shake out.

The hockey-puck Veo 100 did fit into the Sherwood console, but very very loosely. I had to slice up and cannibalize a wrist boot from a compass (from Scuba Toys!) in order to shim the thing to where the computer didn't flop around. (I dropped the compass into the console too.) Oh yeah, I also cut a hole in the side of the console boot so that water could get to the activation contacts.

The Veo 100 user's manual mentions something about a possible "spacer" that goes into a console with the computer. What's that all about? Are those available?

--Marek

scubatoys:
Ooops... my screw up... I got a few of them confused in my mind... Short term memory is the first thing to go. Yes, that is a hockey puck size - just like the genesis or sherwood, I was thinking the aeris Atmos 2 sized one... yes a standard boot will set you up.
 
I just got a VEO 200 with wrist strap, but I've seen some pics of guys with compasses with bungees on em. Sure looks a lot easier to put on. Does anyone know how to configure this with the existing wrist strap. Is this a DIY thing or is there some other holder you buy that accommodates bungees?
 
I plan to wear a compass on my left and the Oceanic on my right wrist, and they both came with wrist straps. Anyone with information on how to convert/replace the wrist straps with bungees to make it easier to get on/off?

guymenton:
I just got a VEO 200 with wrist strap, but I've seen some pics of guys with compasses with bungees on em. Sure looks a lot easier to put on. Does anyone know how to configure this with the existing wrist strap. Is this a DIY thing or is there some other holder you buy that accommodates bungees?
 

Back
Top Bottom