Next camera?????

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Given the fact that on a mirror less system, you have to focus and shoot with the LED screen, one would expect shutter lag and focus being an issue but it works very well.
With the proper housing (like a Nauticam) you are NOT restricted to the LED screen. I use a 45-degree optical viewfinder (it sees an electronic image produced by the sensor, not through-the-lens) on my Olympus/Nauticam, and it is terrific. No apparent shutter lag on the camera, and various ways to focus. Unfortunately, not cheap.
 
Given the fact that on a mirror less system, you have to focus and shoot with the LED screen, one would expect shutter lag and focus being an issue but it works very well.

This is somewhat of a misnomer. On a DSLR (and late-generation film SLR) cameras, you have a dedicated phase-detection array behind a pellicle mirror. With phase detection, the camera can sense how far out of focus it is on any given point, and drive the lens directly to the point where it will be in focus. If, however, you want to frame using the LCD screen rather than the optical viewfinder, that pellicle mirror has to swing out of the way, and the phase detection array isn't working anymore, so the camera needs to focus by contrast detection - driving the lens back and forth until it can find areas in the image where you have a sharp transition between different colors, and when that transition is sharp, it means that the lens is focused. This is slower and less reliable than phase detection, but lacking a mirror, this is the method that most early mirrorless cameras and virtually all fixed-lens compacts use, leading to the shutter lag they're known for.
However, most modern mirrorless cameras (almost all the Sony Alphas, Fujifilm X-series, Olympus E-M1 II, Canon M and R series, Nikon Z series, some Leicas too, I think) as well as some compacts (Sony RX100M5 and up and I think some Fujifilm as well) use hybrid autofocus where the phase detection points are integrated into the camera sensor, making turning lens hunting and shutter lag into things of the past.
Notably, Panasonic is sticking with contrast-detect autofocus even in their high-end offerings like S1R (they have a proprietary system they call Depth from Defocus, which claims to interpret an unfocused image to guess how much out of focus it is and in which direction, but by all accounts it doesn't work as well as true PDAF systems), as does Olympus on cameras below their flagship EM1 II and EM1 X offerings.
As already pointed out by another poster, on mirrorless cameras you can use the viewfinder alongside the display (assuming you have one - some, like Sony A5100, skip it), but unlike SLRs, it has no effect on focusing speed and accuracy. It does give you some advantages over an optical viewfinder such as the ability to zoom in and see fine detail while focusing, but overall it's a matter of personal preference. I dive with a Sony A6300, which has an EVF, but underwater I prefer using the screen - peeking into the viewfinder through the mask is just way awkward. I suppose add-on viewfinders mitigate this somewhat, but they tend to cost around a thousand dollars apiece, and mount to housings that cost several thousands, whereas my housing cost me $500 shipped with two ports (flat and 6" dome).
 
Wow, thanks to everyone for weighing in. Although the only thing this has done was confirm that the enginerd in me is about to come out and I will be having a lot of spreadsheets to compare and contrast.
 
Consider the amount of light you will have available. Do you want to shoot ambient, or do you want to use strobe(s)? The former makes for a very compact rig, especially if you go for a compact camera instead of a system camera, but you lose the reds and yellows almost as soon as you go under water. Shooting raw format and post-processing can give you back some of the color, but you can't replace what wasn't there in the first case, so your pictures will lack "oomph" (color brilliance). Strobes give you those nice reds and yellows and can give lots of "oomph", but the rig becomes bigger and more cumbersome, and backscatter becomes an issue.

Compacts make for a very nice rig which can easily be clipped to a D-ring if you want your hands free for other stuff and is the reason I started there. However, the very small sensor of compacts makes for crappy low-light IQ. If you only want to shoot macro, that's less of an issue because you'll be adding quite a bit of artificial light anyway, but if you shoot ambient or want to balance flash with ambient, low-light performance may well become important. In green water country, you'll basically be shooting in low light no matter the depth or time of the day, and a decent sized sensor becomes desirable.

Like @mi000ke I've been using a dSLR topside, but also like him I started with a simple compact and no strobes, and then went to a micro four thirds rig. With strobes. The cost of the camera and the housing is very considerably lower than if I had opted for a dSLR, and the size of the housing is about half of the size of a dSLR housing.

Using a 24x36mm chip size dSLR (like the D850 that @BurhanMuntasser suggests) for UW shooting is only for masochists, IMNSHO :) And even though I rarely shoot below 800 ISO, I don't miss the large sensor. With a micro-43 sensor, I get the same DOF at two apertures larger than I do with my D700, and that compensates quite a bit for the poorer low-light performance IMO.
 
Figured I would come back with an update.

So, I was working through my decision making process thanks to a lot of good information from you all and had set each option up that I felt would be acceptable to me based on quality, function and price. (told you I'm a spreadsheet nerd)
I was just about to start my next round of "which camera will make the cut" when I had the opportunity to buy a full DC2000 rig that had not ever been wet, for a VERY minimal price. The person had bought it but he and his wife were getting out of diving unexpectedly due to some health concerns. I could not pass up the offer with it having strobe, video light, wide angle lens, housing, tray, etc.

Have not had a chance to use it yet other than in the pool but thus far looks like a good next step from the point and shoot, which is what I was hunting to begin with. Again, thank you all for weighing in and giving me some options to look at.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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