Need Brightstar Darkbuster Light Accessories

[Manuel Sam]

I would appreciate any help in locating someone who sells accessories for the above light. Specifically, I am looking for the YS adapter to allow me to connect the light to a strobe arm, and the rubber overmold to protect the outer case.

I've emailed Brighstar directly as well as to the US rep that they referred me to several months ago and gotten no replies.

Thanks.

 

[Shasta_man]

Check this out. They've responded to a RMA I had for my Darkbusters.

On The Edge Lighting

 

[Manuel Sam]

Thanks. I eventually wound up contacting a friend in Taiwan who contacted Brightstar directly and was able to get me the parts. But I will keep this On the Edge place in mind next time.

Just curious: have you figured out whether the the "bulb" is user-replaceable? There is no mention of this in the user manual. I don't need to do this now, but I am looking out for the future.

Mechanically, it would seem that the front case ought to unscrew to allow you access to the "bulb". On the other hand, I wasn't able to open it just by trying to just turn it by hand and I hesitate to use a tool to turn it. Their user manual only says that you shouldn't try to open it while in operation.

Thanks again.

 

[Blazinator]

Glad you got your parts - too bad the US rep didn't help you.

When I needed a new overmould rubber boot for my Darkbuster, I got one rather quickly from Scubatoys, where I bought it, and I imagine that they would get you parts and bulbs, even if you didn't buy it from them. I corresponded with their Rep, Matt, and he pointed me in the direction of scubatoys as their US distributor.

I've had to open my light up a few times to clean and change a fuse from a leak I had when I forgot to screw in the charging port cap, and it was impossible to unscrew by hand due to the dual O-rings.

So I traced the outline of the lens head with its ribs onto a piece of plywood (OSB) and cut out the center and cut out a handle on the end, then put the light into my bench vice and used my new "wrench" to unscrew the lens.
Even after tightening the head back on hand-tight, I later still had to use the wrench to open it up again (I added a 1/8" thick aluminum ring between the bulb flange and the reflector to widen the beam spread - too much focus).

 

[bowlofpetunias]

I took Fish's torch in to have the supplier change the lense to the Video lens. They had a similar thing. They had a cut out attached to the top of the workbench. The back of the Darkbuster fit tightly into that and they used a wrench similar to the one you use to put oil filters into cars to open it. The loop on the wrench protected the lense from damage. I think you would use a similar approach to take it off and change the bulb. That's my 2 cents for what it is worth coming from a female.....

 

[Manuel Sam]

Thanks to all for your helpful feedback.

Blazinator - only comment I would make is regarding the aluminum ring that you inserted. Aluminum is a relatively low-melting metal - and these lights do get pretty hot. So far, no problems?

Thanks again.

 

[Blazinator]

regarding the aluminum ring that you inserted. Aluminum is a relatively low-melting metal - and these lights do get pretty hot. So far, no problems?

Thanks again.

No problem at all. I use industrial UV lights (same concept of plasmatizing the mercury like HID bulbs) at my work with 20,000 watt bulbs hitting 900Ž° celsius and the aluminum reflectors are about an inch away from the bulb. But then again, the cooling fans behind the reflectors help dissipate the heat.

A little tip on heat - never set your Darkbuster on its butt to shine light straight up reflecting on your picnic canopy while you clean up the boat slip at night. The heat from the bulb goes straight up and melts the polycarbonate lens, causing a bubbled area. I caught it before it melted through, and it still held pressure for a 70 ft dive later that week.

 

[Manuel Sam]

Thanks for your tip on NOT having the light pointing straight up. I only use the light u/w and I think that pointing it straight up during a dive might happen once in a while but not for a prolonged amount of time, and even then, at least the water helps to cool it down a bit.

I shoot stills so I don't have an issue with the beam being narrow (I do have the wide reflector). My niece however shoots u/w video and she was in fact looking at inserting something in front of the reflector to widen the beam. Would you mind telling me more about the 1/8" aluminum ring - ie, OD and ID and where exactly? I ask because, not having opened the light yet, when you say "between the bulb flange and the reflector", it sounds to me like your 1/8" ring is away from plain view behind the reflector and and acts more like a spacer than a diffuser. Thanks.

 

[Shasta_man]

I was directed to using Darkbusters as video lights on wetpixel. One of the guys, Wagsy, has some great video using them. Look in their video technique forum.

He made diffusers out of the plastic that covers yogurt cups. The piece that seals the yogurt in and you have to peel away to open the yogurt. It's not completely opaque but somewhere in between and makes for a good diffuser. He just puts it into the diffuser holder built into the light lens.

He gets some great video with no hotspots or hard shadows.

 

[Blazinator]

Thanks for that cool tip, Shasta Man - I'll check out wetpixel.

And Yes, Manuel, the aluminum ring is used as a spacer. Once you open the light, it will become evident. I think I remember the inside diameter to be around 5/8 - 3/4" and the OD to be around 1-1/4" ish, but had to grind some scallops in the areas around where the screws tighten the bulb flange. Several big fat steel washers would work if you found them the right size.

Here's a useful trick when you remove the bulb from the reflector:

Hold the bulb in one hand (by the flange & wire leads) and the reflector in the other, while the torch is on. Move the bulb in and out of the reflector hole and observe the beam spread on a wall. When you see the beam spread you want, hold still and measure the thickness of the space between the flange and the reflector to know the exact thickness you want. You'll be limited by the length of the screw threads though, and might need longer screws.