Need a New Canister Housing [DIY or Purchased]

[Andrew Dawson]

Hi dive light enthusiasts...does anyone know where to source dive light canisters, please?

I just got an old AUL dive light, free, that was converted to LED and works great. However, the canister is pretty ancient and pretty enormous [18" tall x 5" o.d.]. The battery in it takes up less than half of the space in the canister. I *could* keep my car keys, cell phone, a couple of good books, back up dive lights, etc, in it...but would rather just go with a bit of a smaller package.

I'm hoping to retain the light head and possibly the cord...and attach the cord to a new canister case. I can salvage the old retainer clips off the old canister if need be, too

If need be, I can also source or build a new battery pack.

Any leads, links, ideas would be greatly appreciated!

P.S. Yes, I could probably just cut it in half and move the retainer latches....
Apologies to anyone who posts Scubaboard links...I swear I searched first!!

 

[fish149]

Awhile ago I made several canister lights using PVC pipe for the battery canisters. I turned some delrin on a lathe to make the removable lids. I have some extras lids left over so if you want one to make your own let me know. I'm thinking $10 should cover my expenses. You should be able to get the pvc at any hardware store, the toggle switch, boot, orings and hinges at McMaster Carr

 

[Andrew Dawson]

You rock, Fish149!! Woweee!! Now, what diameter is the PVC, please? I was totally thinking of this route as I worked a bunch with 4" DWV PVC this last fall when I installed and relocated a tankless water heater. Excellent work, BTW!!

My battery would need about 4" ID to be able to fit....

I have a local supplier of o-rings...they have over 57k different types/sizes in stock and have never failed to get me one on-site.

As for the toggle switch how did you waterproof it with the housing seal?

What is the boot you refer to?

What cable glands did you use and what cable did you use? Or was it a cable sheath?

 

[JohnnyC]

Gland: Sealing Gland (5 mm - 10 mm)
Switch boot: Switch Boot for All Lights
Switch: Switch for All Lights

These would be acceptable parts.

You can also buy pre-made canisters from Light Monkey in various diameters. It would be a good time to upgrade your battery to something smaller in size, Although not cheap, figure $300 give or take.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

That is fantastic, JohnnyC...thank you!! So, I just need to figure out how to attach those parts to the housing.

Now, does anyone know how to or what to use when installing/replacing the glands and switch boot? For example, do you use an adhesive or a pipe sealant on the threads?

Also for the glands would you just use some of the SJOOW cable like this...but in 16/2 that has an OD of at least 5mm to work with that Light Monkey cable gland link above?

Southwire (By-the-Foot) 16/2 300-Volt CU Black Flexible Portable Power SJOOW Cord-55811899 - The Home Depot

 

[Andrew Dawson]

So, I reset the current cable glands....loosened them, pulled some new cable through, retightened.

Rebuilt it all, as is, on the light head...and retested in the bathtub...bubbles immediately came from the rubber switch.

It clearly had a hole in it.

So, does anyone have tips on how to seal this bulkhead hole on the back of the light head where the switch goes, please? I imagine I will buy a new switch from Light Monkey...but how do you really seal it? The old owner had put silicone caulk on the threads...which seems wonky to me...

 

[fish149]

It's 2 inch PVC. Big enough for a 12 volt 4500 MA Li ion battery

 

[JohnnyC]

Could pick up some acid free silicone and seal it that way. It's not uncommon to use it to seal passthrough components on rebreather heads.

 

[Caveeagle]

Nice piece of history. Does anyone know what years AUL made that light. I suspect it was a lot less common than the typical Lexan can I got in ‘91

 

[fish149]

You rock, Fish149!! Woweee!! Now, what diameter is the PVC, please? I was totally thinking of this route as I worked a bunch with 4" DWV PVC this last fall when I installed and relocated a tankless water heater. Excellent work, BTW!!

My battery would need about 4" ID to be able to fit....

I have a local supplier of o-rings...they have over 57k different types/sizes in stock and have never failed to get me one on-site.

As for the toggle switch how did you waterproof it with the housing seal?

What is the boot you refer to?

What cable glands did you use and what cable did you use? Or was it a cable sheath?

2 inch PVC was the inside diameter, BTW.

To address your other questions...
I used a toggle, 2 pole switch to turn on and off. Used a water proof boot/cover to seal the water out. Here's a link.
McMaster-Carr

As far as cable goes I just bought some from McMaster Carr

Cable gland. I used agro. They're expensive but seemed to be the ones to get when I built my light. The piece I offered in my post is also drilled and tapped for an agro threading.

If I were doing the project now I'd probably just use these (below) McMaster Carr, they're cheaper and I see ones like them on alot more lights lately . they're slightly larger in diameter so the piece I have could be redrilled and tapped to fit .