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f3nikon

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Any thoughts on how the harsh shadow in front of the Olympus' lens, had been soften in the second picture? At a cost of about 50 cents.
 
A light tent, macro film photographers have been using them in their studios and in the field, for years. This idea is from John Shaw (The top nature photographer in my book) I am just applying this to UW shooting.

CLA mention a tupperware lid for a diffuser but started getting dark arcs in some ofthe pictures. I just used the entire tupperware bowl itself and lined the opposite half, the half on the other side of the camera's internal flash, with aluminum foil.

Light travels in a straight path, since the the internal flash is fixed on one side of the camera the opposite side does not get the proper lighting. The bowl not only diffuses the light but it also holds the aluminum foil in place to bounce the light back in the opposite direction to "fill in" the shadow.

Now why do we even need a external strobe????

This really works for clear waters and close ups.
 
For UW use instead of al. foil one could paint the inside half of the bowl silver or gold (for that knock out warming look). Then attach the bowl to the UW housing via the front lens port, secured by a rubber band.

You may notice that even some fashion photographers have started using this method of lighting.
 
Anytime Nick...yes it could help in the backscatter by shooting closer and diffusing the light. I just found a tupperware bowl large enough to cover our large PT-23 housing.

The other benefit is the "wrap around lighting" if you notice the lens barrel in the second picture has a bit more highlights compared to the first pic. an overall more even exposure. This can also be used with a external strobe, just fire the strobe behind the bowl.

I would recommend this to anyone starting off in UW photography, before getting an external strobe. This method will help to understand the basics of working with light.

Here are some examples of the light tent use.

http://www.tabletopstudio.com/images/Gallery/TableTopStudioGalleryThumbs.htm
 
interesting....just a couple more questions, If I may.

Does size matter? How big does the bowl have to be?

In the picture the bowl looks so big that it seems to cover the internal strobe, reducing the light. No?

how do you secure it to your camera?

When you have it in the water and are moving along, does it give you a lot of resistance?
 
Good questions leesa, the bowl is suppose to cover the internal flash. The light from the flash shoots right through the bowl, that is why I did not cover the entire bowl with foil. The bowl and foil then bounces the light around to fill in the shadows, not totally removing the shadows, but softening.

On this test fixture just tape, UW a rubber band tied to some holes on the bowl then tied to the top and bottom of the housing.

Have not checked the water resistance on this bowl yet, but my Ikelite SLR housing is larger than the bowl and I had no problems with the housing and the three UW sails called strobes. Keep in mind that I also shoot video, not just the mini handy cam type but the larger full size SVHS.

Dive Safe
 
f3nikon:
Good questions leesa, the bowl is suppose to cover the internal flash. The light from the flash shoots right through the bowl, that is why I did not cover the entire bowl with foil. The bowl and foil then bounces the light around to fill in the shadows, not totally removing the shadows, but softening.

so it is also like a 2nd diffuser? If the housing already has a diffuer does it have to be and opaque bowl or could you use transparent
 
justleesa:
so it is also like a 2nd diffuser? If the housing already has a diffuer does it have to be and opaque bowl or could you use transparent

That is correct a second diffuser, an opaque bowl is best for this setup, because we want to cut the hotspot, spread the light and bounce around. The clear bowl will allow most of the light to shoot straight to the subject.
 

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