I originally wrote this for my wife, to get her a chance to read about my experience to the Cocos Island. She had encouraged me to take this trip and after she read it and corrected my spelling she though I might post it for others to get a taste of what they could expect in this very special place... Its a 12 day adventure with 3 days consumed in travel to and from the island and 9 days of diving. I am not a "story" teller but I hope you enjoy! lee
Just my thoughts aboard the Undersea Hunter and 9 days of diving the “Cocos”, a small island in the Pacific some 340 or so miles west of Costa Rica.
This journey begins Aug 16, 2011… Booked with the boat “Undersea Hunter”, a 90’ 14 passenger live aboard. Not knowing what to really expect other than the Cocos was a magnificent place to dive, I went into this with open eyes… I ended up sharing a cabin with an ole boy from Barbados… He was quite the character and a professional diver at that. He was with a couple from Holland and another couple from Canada… They knew of each other from surfing or diving in Barbados and the two couples make Barbados home during parts of the year. All 5 of them had previously dove the Galapagos and said Darwin was without doubt the three best days of diving they had ever had… Our team consisted of seven with a DM, 5 as mentioned above, myself and Yukie from Japan. Yukie was on a diving utopia having just dove the Galapagos last month, now the Cocos, and heading to Roatan…!!! I did not pry into how or why but she seems to be having a blast…! With the hardships Japan had experienced lately, this could be the reason for her escape…
This boat is carrying 14 passengers and I have mentioned the blue team… The other seven belong to the yellow team, 6 Germans, 1 American, and 1 from Turks and Caicos. I sit with 4 Germans from the yellow team for meals and I believe we enjoy each other’s company and the girls speak very good English and the guys give it an honest go; actually the guys do a very good job…! I enjoyed them all as they would include me in the conversations…!
Day 1, “Arrival” I hear the engines reverse thrust and it is quite dark. Its 3:30 am and I walk outside and see Pepe (one of the crew members). He introduces me to Manuelita Island and then takes me to the side and says “this is the Cocos; Welcome Home…!“ with a big smile… I will remember this moment for some time! The volunteer Rangers we brought over from the mainland leave @ 7:30. We anchor next to Manuelita Island and the seas are very calm. Weather is overcast and stays so pretty much through the day.
First dive; “Check Dive” Manuelita Garden. We dropped in on two Hammer Heads… Knew it was going to be a good day. Saw more fish and large ones at that than I have ever seen before. Marble Rays, White tip sharks, Galapagos sharks, one large Yellowtail Tuna, Jacks, The largest Frog Fish I have ever seen (size of a cantaloupe), and so many more I have no idea what the names are. To top it off I saw my very first Whale Shark…! Calm seas and drifted with the current. Dive was down to @ 66’
Second dive; Manuelita Channel. More of the same but we were hanging out by a cleaning station waiting for the Hammer Heads. Saw many, 10-12 not really sure… Seas were calm and we were drifting with a small current. Dive was down to @ 100’
Third dive; Manuelita Isla. Went to three cleaning stations where we saw more Hammer Heads and 12 Eagle Rays… Lots of fish and lots of action… Oh, and saw the Whale Shark three more times but not really sure if it was the same one each time or not…!!! Seas were calm and drifted with slight current. Looking forward to what tomorrow brings…!!! Dive was @ 91’
Later that night, the clouds part and the stars are out quite nicely. Moon @ ¾, plus ships anchor light I am sure is taking away some of the clarity but beautiful just the same…!
Day 2, Move around the Island over to the Ranger station. The day starts out sunny with a few clouds.
First dive; Dirty Rock. Seas were a little more rough and good amount of current. We saw several Hammers and Galapagos sharks. Large schools of Jacks and abundant sea life. Towards the end, a school of Hammer Heads swam by, approximately 25-30 in number but I was a bit far away and saw only @ 12-15 or so… Dive was a bit deep @ 118’ and I was trying to conserve air.
Second Dive; Punta Maria. On the way we can see many (@4) waterfalls. Seas still a bit rough but not that bad. Current was not as bad as the first dive of the day but we used a down line just the same. Scenery was pretty much the same but it’s hard not to get excited about what you see. More Hammer Heads, Galapagos Sharks, many White Tip Sharks, large Jacks, and Grouper. Nothing really stood out on this dive but still an amazing amount of sea life. Poorest viz as of yet but could still see clearly 25’. Dive was down to 108’.
Third dive; Viking Rock. Saw many Marble Rays and White Tip Sharks. We were hoping to see some Hammer Heads down at the “cleaning station” but only saw 1, maybe 2. Again, many large fish and a good drift dive with medium/low current. Seas have quieted down but still somewhat marginal. Dive was down to @ 94’
This evening was cloudy and rain began around 9:00.
Day 3, Due to bad weather, we returned to Manuelita Isla. Weather is mostly cloudy and misty. Today will be something special because we are diving Alcyon. It is said this is Jacques Cousteau’s favorite dive in the world… We will see!!!
First dive, Hidden Rock. Saw many White Tip Sharks, many Marble Rays, two lobsters, lots of sea life, and two fish balls. Little current and we swam a pass through that was hard to see at first because of all of the fish blocking the way but as we entered they cleared and it was quite nice. One of the divers lost her weight belt that made for a moment but this was a good dive. Dive was down to @ 90’
Second dive, Alcyon. Well, I can see why some call it a special dive… You drop down on a panicle and grab ahold of something as the current was back and forth. I was holding on getting slung around back and forth some and found myself sharing my space with a Moray Eel… Of the two of us, I am sure I was a bit more concerned about who was in charge of this spot! Saw many of the same with White Tips, Marble Rays, Jacks, and the likes. This site is known for Hammer Heads and I was truly impressed with the school that swam overhead. It was not quite National Geographic due to only fair viz, but impressive none the less. About the viz, maybe not so bad but perhaps hampered by the dark clouds. The girls were giving me **** about not spotting any Octopus cause they warned me that “if you don’t find them here… You’re blind!!!” I let them know that I did not have my glasses, so blind…? Maybe! I was too caught up with the Hammers to think about much else… Very good dive and the best as of yet… Had both camera and video but never pulled out the camera… Dive was down to @ 95’
Third dive, Lobster Rock. Not so good on my part… Viz was not so good. Stopped to take a couple of quick pictures and became separated from the team! Followed the rock formation as hard and fast as I could but came to nothing but sand. Not knowing if they went straight or veered off left or right I waited for a couple of minutes. Decided to return to where I last saw them and waited for 2-3 minutes. Deployed the SMB from 40’ down and waited out my safety stop. Three minutes I broke surface and Pepa, our boat operator gave me a wave as he had seen my marker… Felt poorly about it but I believe I followed the correct procedure. Eddie, the DM surfaced some 35’ from the boat and as I was getting in the boat and asked if I was OK which I replied “yes!” Eddie asked if I wanted to rejoin but already having my fins off and up in the boat, I declined! Gabby, one of the ladies in our group told me that I did not miss much but as I replied “It’s not so much that I did or did not miss anything but it was a mistake on my part!!!” and one I hope to never make again…! Lesson learned! Dive was down to @ 65’
Weather for most if not all of the day was overcast and either drizzling, waiting to drizzle, or raining… Hope for a better day tomorrow…!
Day 4, This morning starts off with some blue sky is seen but mostly cloudy. We moved back around to the Ranger station and with the last dive in the past I trust today will go much better!
First dive, Manuelita Channel. I think all would agree that this was the bestdive of the trip so far…! Many Hammer Heads at the cleaning station, several Yellowtail Tuna, Barracudas, and a Whale Shark that entertained us on 4 passes …! On two of the passes I was close enough I could have touched if I chose to, I chose not… This rascal is somewhere between 18’ to 25’ (dive master believes its 7 meters of so) as it is hard to tell between trying to catch “the shot”, avoiding him/her, and trying to stay out of everyone’s way so they can catch “that shot!”
Second dive, Dirty Rock. To be honest, this was a very good dive at the time but I dove the third prior to writing this up… Was considered the second best dive of the day until we took the third however to give it its due. We found the usual, funny how extraordinary becomes “the usual” so quickly…! Much when we did the land tour of the Galapagos and the Marine Iguana’s, or the Blue Boobies seemed so common as the be treated as a Sparrow found in the back yard… Dismissed somewhat until they are no longer around. The main event was the Hammer Heads which showed up in large numbers and flexed ever so gracefully gliding through the water… Ok, I tried to give this dive its due but on to the next…
Third Dive, Manuelita Channel. We had become quite spoiled to this particular dive with the “Star of the hour” the Whale Shark making it know that he and not the Hammer Heads were the true “Main Event” in this neck of the woods…! We dropped down to @100’ to the shark cleaning station… Again, the usual suspects showed up, White Tips, Puffers, Box, Jacks, Trumpets, and the likes. Back to the feeding station; it was like the Jersey turnpike during rush hour! So many traveling east to west and then west to east and then some changing their mind in midflight… Too many to keep focused on just this one or that one as it became one big distraction and it was best to just enjoy the show! After thirty minutes and with the best seat in house we pulled up and drifted to see if the “Main Attraction” made a grand appearance! Searching the waters from 20’ down to 80’ we were kept waiting and anticipating…! We found entertainment watching the Hammers continue to mull about and finding them closer to the surface. At one point, I saw a Yellow Fin Tuna next to one of the divers that was the size of a small pickup truck… Happened so fast as I wished I had time to grab a quick shot… So many Hammers that we were not even disappointed with the absence of what has become the residence Whale Shark!!!
It’s easy to say that today was two of the three best dives I have ever had and by far the best day of diving I have ever enjoyed!!! Day ended up with sunshine and can only hope tomorrow brings much of the same… then again, at this rate we may find the Whale Shark and Hammer Heads on the same list as the usual suspects…!!! Tonight the stars were out for the most part and even caught a satellite whipping by!!!
Day 5, Woke up this morning feeling not so well, congested and sore throat! Took some Benadryl and hoping for the best… Mostly cloudy but seas are flat.
First dive, Halcyon. Like I said, the seas were calm but only until we turned the corner as the winds and swells picked up. Nice dive as we followed the line down and everyone got into position for seeing Hammers. I was on a quest to find an octopus Judy and Karrie gave me the business about not seeing them the first time around… So my search begins, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Moray Eel, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Moray Eel, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, OH; Octopus!!! Hidden in a crack was my find… Saw a good school of Hammers up above such as before, several Yellowtail Tuna, Marble Ray, and such but a couple of divers saw a Manta Ray… Only for a moment so maybe next time for me…!
Second dive, Dirty Rock. Not much to say regarding what was seen… I was down pretty deep, @ 134 for a bit trying to get close to the action but only saw one Hammer. Most if not all fish were hugging the rocks to include the 8 of us… Current was a bit stiff and viz was poor compared to most dives. There is a pinnacle @ 50’ where we regrouped and at this point the current was very stiff and was holding on with one hand while the camera was held in the other. Much like a NC dive as we were all doing our best impression of Superman… I noticed Debbi was next to me and after a few minutes I gave her the thumbs up, that I was OK, and that I would see them up top… I drifted up to do my 3 minutes and breaking the water to the whistles from Peppy… Dive was down to @ 134'
Continue to Part 2... http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/395329-my-thoughts-diving-cocos-island-isla-del-coco-very-long-pt-2-a.html#post6036336
Just my thoughts aboard the Undersea Hunter and 9 days of diving the “Cocos”, a small island in the Pacific some 340 or so miles west of Costa Rica.
This journey begins Aug 16, 2011… Booked with the boat “Undersea Hunter”, a 90’ 14 passenger live aboard. Not knowing what to really expect other than the Cocos was a magnificent place to dive, I went into this with open eyes… I ended up sharing a cabin with an ole boy from Barbados… He was quite the character and a professional diver at that. He was with a couple from Holland and another couple from Canada… They knew of each other from surfing or diving in Barbados and the two couples make Barbados home during parts of the year. All 5 of them had previously dove the Galapagos and said Darwin was without doubt the three best days of diving they had ever had… Our team consisted of seven with a DM, 5 as mentioned above, myself and Yukie from Japan. Yukie was on a diving utopia having just dove the Galapagos last month, now the Cocos, and heading to Roatan…!!! I did not pry into how or why but she seems to be having a blast…! With the hardships Japan had experienced lately, this could be the reason for her escape…
This boat is carrying 14 passengers and I have mentioned the blue team… The other seven belong to the yellow team, 6 Germans, 1 American, and 1 from Turks and Caicos. I sit with 4 Germans from the yellow team for meals and I believe we enjoy each other’s company and the girls speak very good English and the guys give it an honest go; actually the guys do a very good job…! I enjoyed them all as they would include me in the conversations…!
Day 1, “Arrival” I hear the engines reverse thrust and it is quite dark. Its 3:30 am and I walk outside and see Pepe (one of the crew members). He introduces me to Manuelita Island and then takes me to the side and says “this is the Cocos; Welcome Home…!“ with a big smile… I will remember this moment for some time! The volunteer Rangers we brought over from the mainland leave @ 7:30. We anchor next to Manuelita Island and the seas are very calm. Weather is overcast and stays so pretty much through the day.
First dive; “Check Dive” Manuelita Garden. We dropped in on two Hammer Heads… Knew it was going to be a good day. Saw more fish and large ones at that than I have ever seen before. Marble Rays, White tip sharks, Galapagos sharks, one large Yellowtail Tuna, Jacks, The largest Frog Fish I have ever seen (size of a cantaloupe), and so many more I have no idea what the names are. To top it off I saw my very first Whale Shark…! Calm seas and drifted with the current. Dive was down to @ 66’
Second dive; Manuelita Channel. More of the same but we were hanging out by a cleaning station waiting for the Hammer Heads. Saw many, 10-12 not really sure… Seas were calm and we were drifting with a small current. Dive was down to @ 100’
Third dive; Manuelita Isla. Went to three cleaning stations where we saw more Hammer Heads and 12 Eagle Rays… Lots of fish and lots of action… Oh, and saw the Whale Shark three more times but not really sure if it was the same one each time or not…!!! Seas were calm and drifted with slight current. Looking forward to what tomorrow brings…!!! Dive was @ 91’
Later that night, the clouds part and the stars are out quite nicely. Moon @ ¾, plus ships anchor light I am sure is taking away some of the clarity but beautiful just the same…!
Day 2, Move around the Island over to the Ranger station. The day starts out sunny with a few clouds.
First dive; Dirty Rock. Seas were a little more rough and good amount of current. We saw several Hammers and Galapagos sharks. Large schools of Jacks and abundant sea life. Towards the end, a school of Hammer Heads swam by, approximately 25-30 in number but I was a bit far away and saw only @ 12-15 or so… Dive was a bit deep @ 118’ and I was trying to conserve air.
Second Dive; Punta Maria. On the way we can see many (@4) waterfalls. Seas still a bit rough but not that bad. Current was not as bad as the first dive of the day but we used a down line just the same. Scenery was pretty much the same but it’s hard not to get excited about what you see. More Hammer Heads, Galapagos Sharks, many White Tip Sharks, large Jacks, and Grouper. Nothing really stood out on this dive but still an amazing amount of sea life. Poorest viz as of yet but could still see clearly 25’. Dive was down to 108’.
Third dive; Viking Rock. Saw many Marble Rays and White Tip Sharks. We were hoping to see some Hammer Heads down at the “cleaning station” but only saw 1, maybe 2. Again, many large fish and a good drift dive with medium/low current. Seas have quieted down but still somewhat marginal. Dive was down to @ 94’
This evening was cloudy and rain began around 9:00.
Day 3, Due to bad weather, we returned to Manuelita Isla. Weather is mostly cloudy and misty. Today will be something special because we are diving Alcyon. It is said this is Jacques Cousteau’s favorite dive in the world… We will see!!!
First dive, Hidden Rock. Saw many White Tip Sharks, many Marble Rays, two lobsters, lots of sea life, and two fish balls. Little current and we swam a pass through that was hard to see at first because of all of the fish blocking the way but as we entered they cleared and it was quite nice. One of the divers lost her weight belt that made for a moment but this was a good dive. Dive was down to @ 90’
Second dive, Alcyon. Well, I can see why some call it a special dive… You drop down on a panicle and grab ahold of something as the current was back and forth. I was holding on getting slung around back and forth some and found myself sharing my space with a Moray Eel… Of the two of us, I am sure I was a bit more concerned about who was in charge of this spot! Saw many of the same with White Tips, Marble Rays, Jacks, and the likes. This site is known for Hammer Heads and I was truly impressed with the school that swam overhead. It was not quite National Geographic due to only fair viz, but impressive none the less. About the viz, maybe not so bad but perhaps hampered by the dark clouds. The girls were giving me **** about not spotting any Octopus cause they warned me that “if you don’t find them here… You’re blind!!!” I let them know that I did not have my glasses, so blind…? Maybe! I was too caught up with the Hammers to think about much else… Very good dive and the best as of yet… Had both camera and video but never pulled out the camera… Dive was down to @ 95’
Third dive, Lobster Rock. Not so good on my part… Viz was not so good. Stopped to take a couple of quick pictures and became separated from the team! Followed the rock formation as hard and fast as I could but came to nothing but sand. Not knowing if they went straight or veered off left or right I waited for a couple of minutes. Decided to return to where I last saw them and waited for 2-3 minutes. Deployed the SMB from 40’ down and waited out my safety stop. Three minutes I broke surface and Pepa, our boat operator gave me a wave as he had seen my marker… Felt poorly about it but I believe I followed the correct procedure. Eddie, the DM surfaced some 35’ from the boat and as I was getting in the boat and asked if I was OK which I replied “yes!” Eddie asked if I wanted to rejoin but already having my fins off and up in the boat, I declined! Gabby, one of the ladies in our group told me that I did not miss much but as I replied “It’s not so much that I did or did not miss anything but it was a mistake on my part!!!” and one I hope to never make again…! Lesson learned! Dive was down to @ 65’
Weather for most if not all of the day was overcast and either drizzling, waiting to drizzle, or raining… Hope for a better day tomorrow…!
Day 4, This morning starts off with some blue sky is seen but mostly cloudy. We moved back around to the Ranger station and with the last dive in the past I trust today will go much better!
First dive, Manuelita Channel. I think all would agree that this was the bestdive of the trip so far…! Many Hammer Heads at the cleaning station, several Yellowtail Tuna, Barracudas, and a Whale Shark that entertained us on 4 passes …! On two of the passes I was close enough I could have touched if I chose to, I chose not… This rascal is somewhere between 18’ to 25’ (dive master believes its 7 meters of so) as it is hard to tell between trying to catch “the shot”, avoiding him/her, and trying to stay out of everyone’s way so they can catch “that shot!”
Second dive, Dirty Rock. To be honest, this was a very good dive at the time but I dove the third prior to writing this up… Was considered the second best dive of the day until we took the third however to give it its due. We found the usual, funny how extraordinary becomes “the usual” so quickly…! Much when we did the land tour of the Galapagos and the Marine Iguana’s, or the Blue Boobies seemed so common as the be treated as a Sparrow found in the back yard… Dismissed somewhat until they are no longer around. The main event was the Hammer Heads which showed up in large numbers and flexed ever so gracefully gliding through the water… Ok, I tried to give this dive its due but on to the next…
Third Dive, Manuelita Channel. We had become quite spoiled to this particular dive with the “Star of the hour” the Whale Shark making it know that he and not the Hammer Heads were the true “Main Event” in this neck of the woods…! We dropped down to @100’ to the shark cleaning station… Again, the usual suspects showed up, White Tips, Puffers, Box, Jacks, Trumpets, and the likes. Back to the feeding station; it was like the Jersey turnpike during rush hour! So many traveling east to west and then west to east and then some changing their mind in midflight… Too many to keep focused on just this one or that one as it became one big distraction and it was best to just enjoy the show! After thirty minutes and with the best seat in house we pulled up and drifted to see if the “Main Attraction” made a grand appearance! Searching the waters from 20’ down to 80’ we were kept waiting and anticipating…! We found entertainment watching the Hammers continue to mull about and finding them closer to the surface. At one point, I saw a Yellow Fin Tuna next to one of the divers that was the size of a small pickup truck… Happened so fast as I wished I had time to grab a quick shot… So many Hammers that we were not even disappointed with the absence of what has become the residence Whale Shark!!!
It’s easy to say that today was two of the three best dives I have ever had and by far the best day of diving I have ever enjoyed!!! Day ended up with sunshine and can only hope tomorrow brings much of the same… then again, at this rate we may find the Whale Shark and Hammer Heads on the same list as the usual suspects…!!! Tonight the stars were out for the most part and even caught a satellite whipping by!!!
Day 5, Woke up this morning feeling not so well, congested and sore throat! Took some Benadryl and hoping for the best… Mostly cloudy but seas are flat.
First dive, Halcyon. Like I said, the seas were calm but only until we turned the corner as the winds and swells picked up. Nice dive as we followed the line down and everyone got into position for seeing Hammers. I was on a quest to find an octopus Judy and Karrie gave me the business about not seeing them the first time around… So my search begins, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Moray Eel, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, Moray Eel, Sea Urchin, Sea Urchin, OH; Octopus!!! Hidden in a crack was my find… Saw a good school of Hammers up above such as before, several Yellowtail Tuna, Marble Ray, and such but a couple of divers saw a Manta Ray… Only for a moment so maybe next time for me…!
Second dive, Dirty Rock. Not much to say regarding what was seen… I was down pretty deep, @ 134 for a bit trying to get close to the action but only saw one Hammer. Most if not all fish were hugging the rocks to include the 8 of us… Current was a bit stiff and viz was poor compared to most dives. There is a pinnacle @ 50’ where we regrouped and at this point the current was very stiff and was holding on with one hand while the camera was held in the other. Much like a NC dive as we were all doing our best impression of Superman… I noticed Debbi was next to me and after a few minutes I gave her the thumbs up, that I was OK, and that I would see them up top… I drifted up to do my 3 minutes and breaking the water to the whistles from Peppy… Dive was down to @ 134'
Continue to Part 2... http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/395329-my-thoughts-diving-cocos-island-isla-del-coco-very-long-pt-2-a.html#post6036336
