My switch from Sea & sea 1G to Oly E620

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scubaskip

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A number of you gave me great advice on switching to the E-620, which is now almost complete. I have the E-620, with Zuiko 14-54 f2.8 lens, Olympus housing an older Sea & Sea YS-90 DX strobe etc.

A few days ago I took my gear to my Denver dive shop and had a brief lesson with the camera, then jumped into the pool. I have a LOT to learn about this system and since my next dive trip is less than a month away I need to get practicing.

For day diving I have been using ambient light through my white balance with a white slate and an ISO setting of 200 as my mainstay with my Sea & Sea 1G.

Now I look at my "super control panel" and panic. Being dyslexic does not help matters.

Can anyone suggest some fairly simple start up settings to begin with, or point me toward a book or an online course that might make my transition a bit less daunting.

Thank you

scubaskip
 
F16 and be there..;)

I get a considerable amount of info from this site:
Underwater Photography Guide

The only other thing I can tell you is get at least a 32GB CF card, shoot raw, center weighted, and use your histo to see how your shots are turning out.

I don't have my notes, but I think you can sync up to 180th. shoot shutter and set it to 180th or a little lower, and let the TTL manage the flash.

And have fun!

That is all I got.
 
...I have the E-620, with Zuiko 14-54 f2.8 lens, Olympus housing an older Sea & Sea YS-90 DX strobe etc...

Can anyone suggest some fairly simple start up settings to begin with, or point me toward a book or an online course that might make my transition a bit less daunting.

That's a fine setup. Without a strobe, I suggest you use Shutter priority with the shutter set fast (say 1/180 or faster) to freeze fish motion; let the camera set aperture. You can use Manual mode too -- I'd still use fast shutter.

With that YS-90DX strobe, it gets more complicated. You can connect to the YS-90 strobe in two ways, either by optical fiber connection, or by a wired cable connection. You can operate the YS-90DX in two modes, Manual, and TTL.

CONNECTION: If you use optical connection, light from your camera's strobe Triggers the YS-90 via its optical sensor; the Duration of flash is controlled by either the strobe (Manual), or by the camera (TTL). For optical connection, use a fiber cable -- it's reliable and reduces backscatter. You plug the fiber cable into one of the light ports on the camera and on the strobe. Remember to raise the flash on your camera before putting it in the housing and use FILL (forced) flash for TTL or Manual Flash 1/64 for Manual. To enable the optical sensor, set the Slave Switch on the YS-90DX to ON. If you prefer a wired connection, close the flash on the camera, use Manual Flash 1/64, set the YS-90DX Mode Switch to ON and set the Slave Switch to OFF.

Unfortunately you can only use Manual Strobe Operation with a wired connection between Olympus cameras and the YS-90DX (or any non-Olympus strobe); wired TTL does not work (but see below). If you use a wired cable, be very careful your O-rings are sound and properly seated on your strobe cable or you will have to replace a lot of hardware (been there).

STROBE OPERATING MODES: Setting the switches on the YS-90DX controls how it operates with the camera. The Mode Switch controls whether the YS-90DX operates in either Manual strobe mode (flash duration controlled by strobe), or TTL strobe mode (flash duration controlled by camera). As mentioned, the Slave Switch enables either the Optical Sensor (ON), or enables the wired cable (OFF).

The Mode Switch has 4 positions: OFF, ON, Pre, or TTL. For Manual Mode, use either the ON or Pre setting, while for TTL, of course use TTL.

Manual Strobe operation: In Manual strobe mode, the camera triggers the flash but the strobe controls the Duration of the flash from its 12 position switch. To select Manual, use either ON or Pre. I suggest using the ON setting and setting the camera to Manual Flash, 1/64 duration, since the camera flash is only used to trigger the YS-90, not control its flash duration, and this 1/64 setting saves power and reduces reflections inside the housing. In Manual strobe mode, set the Aperture on the camera and and the Duration on the YS-90DX 12 position switch, according to the table in the YS-90DX manual.

You can compute the proper camera aperture as Guide Number / distance to subject, assuming you use full output and ISO 100. For this YS-90DX strobe, Guide Number is 11 (at ISO 100, maximum flash, in water). So for example if the distance to the subject is say 3 feet, the camera aperture should be set to F4 (the guide number divided by the distance, or 11/3 = about 4). In practice, I suspect most people who use Manual strobe use an initial camera setting based on experience (for example ISO 100, 1/180, F4) and vary the aperture and flash duration, observing the result and adjusting. To save flash power and recycle time, you can increase the ISO to 400 without loss of quality. This lets you scale the Guide Number by 4x also, and hence reduce the flash duration by 1/4. With experience, you can get excellent results. But if this sounds too complicated, you can let your camera do the math, by using TTL Strobe Operation.

TTL Strobe operation: For TTL operation, the YS-90 is set to TTL, and the Duration switch is ignored. The YS-90DX can only use optical (not wired, see below) connection in TTL mode with the Olympus camera, so set the Slave Switch to ON. With optical, the YS-90DX mimics the camera flash duration, as seen by the strobe sensor. TTL Strobe operation is not perfect because the camera exposure evaluation is not perfect. It can be fooled and set the wrong exposure for your subject, especially if there are large areas of light or dark in the frame. So feel free to tweak settings if the results are not what you wanted. Try the 3 Spot Metering modes on the E-620, very nice.

IRRECONCILABLE DIFFERENCES: Wired TTL mode won't work with the YS-90DX on Olympus, unless you install a converter in the housing (Heinrichs Weikamp cTTL converter type N5 - $300 at Reef).
http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=135_74&products_id=2350
It is listed at working for the PT-E01 and -02, but do verify with Reef that it will work on the PT-E06 before you spend the money. I used this converter on my old Oly for years with this same flash.

WHY NO WIRED TTL? The incompatibility is due to the fact that the YS-90DX strobe uses Nikonos signaling, but for digital cams Olympus invented a new signaling system they call cTTL, which only Oly strobes understand. When the camera is in Manual Flash mode will it use partial Nikonos signaling, so you can trigger the strobe by wire. "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

The YS-90DX manual is here: http://www.seaandsea.com/PDF_manuals/YS90DX.pdf

Say hello to my friend OLY THE STONEFISH.
 

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Skip,

As ConchyJoe has said the U/W photo guide (on line) is a great resource, one of the better books on the subject is The Underwater Photographer by Martin Edge.

The Underwater Photographer by Martin Edge - 4th Ed. [misc.tup.edge] - $28.95 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

I have used all of the Olympus DSLR housings since the E-300 was released and I continue to use the same basic settings and refine based on my histogram results.

Three things control proper exposure in natural light, they are ISO, shutter speed and Aperture (F-stop). I set the ISO for the entire dive with very few exceptions at ISO-200, that leaves two things to deal with. At the 14 mm (wide) end of the lens I would be in the 1/60th to 1/125th second range at F-8 for a nice blue water background behind your prime subject in 40 to 70 feet of fairly clear water. The deeper you go the more light and color you loose and the greater the need for a strobe. At the 54 mm end of the lens you really need some strobe or smaller subjects will be flat and dull. I disagree with slowhands idea of shutter priority at such high shutter speeds because you will need a very wide F-stop which will greatly reduce depth of field. I don't see any reference in slowhands post to using your histogram. This is the greatest improvement for digital over film cameras I have found. Set your camera to display the histogram after each shot taken. If all the information is piled to the left you have an under exposure, if it is all piled to the right you have an overexposure. If the information is recorded between the right and left sides the exposure should be correct. The histogram is your best guide to a proper exposure because it allows you to make corrections to F-stop and shutter speed on the fly.

Regarding strobes the cost of going for a wired strobe over using fiber optics to fire the strobe is not worth the cost. As slowhands said the camera's pop-up flash is used to fire the external strobes using fiber optic cables which are cheaper and stronger than the wired strobe. The strobes which work best with the Olympus cameras are the Inon S-2000 and Z-240 along with the Olympus UFL-1 and 2. This is because they will work both as manual strobes and as TTL strobes using fiber optic cords.

The Sea & Sea YS-90DX is preflash compatible and will fire using a fiber optic cable and Olympus cameras but only in manual. It does NOT do TTL using a fiber optic cable regardless of how you set your camera only one S&S strobe will do that with Olympus cameras.

I suggest you contact a knowledgeable seller like Ryan Canon at ReefPhoto regarding which strobes will fire with fiber optics in TTL with Olympus cameras so that you have no misunderstandings. I have used the Inon Z-240's, S-2000 and both Olympus strobes so I know they work in TTL.

With hard wired cables and a TTL conversion (about $300.00 or more) you will be able get TTL on the Olympus cameras with the YS-90DX.

The Inon S-2000 is a great starter strobe and is only about $100.00 more than the TTL conversion unit alone.

When you add the strobe I would suggest the same settings as above for the wide end of the lens and ISO 200, 1/125 to 1/180th at F-11 to F-18 as your starting point with the strobe one to two feet from your subject.

Phil Rudin

Phil Rudin Bio

P.S. Oly the Stonefish looks more like a Spotted Scorpionfish to me.
 
Phil,

Very informative. I have an E-620 and an Iklite housing with a pair of DS 160 strobes. Iklite has the work around for Oly's TTL. The system works perfectly and if I don't like the suggested TTL setting I can reduce or increase it by 1/2 stops using the TTL bar on the back of the housing. I believe you are correct regarding the Sea and Sea strobes, however.
 
In the specification for the Sea&Sea YS-110a when used with Olympus PT-E03 and PT-E05 housings, I noted a warning that DS-TTL slave operation is "Impossible", due to internal reflections inside the housing causing lens flare. They state "*2 Due to reflection inside the housing, DS-TTL is impossible. Use the camera's manual flash mode at 1/64 power. Use the YS-110兛 in manual mode."

SEA&SEA |

This is apparently only an issue with Olympus PT-E series housings, due to the housing design. It would seem to apply to any strobe, including Olympus' own strobes.

Is this a problem people have noticed? Has anyone tried to make a shroud to channel the light to the light ports, or some other fix? I am aware that Olympus is offering a "shading ring" for their PT-EP01 housing to resolve this issue. Possibly this issue has a similar resolution with other PT-E series housings?

Here is a specification for the Olympus POSR-EP01 Shading Ring for M43 ED14-42mm + PT-EP01:

Features:
* Shading Ring for Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 L Standard Zoom Lens when used with OLYMPUS PEN Lite E-PL1 and PT-EP01 Underwater Case enables to prevent lens flare

Compatible with the following models:

* Olympus EZ-M1442 M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 L Standard Zoom Lens​

Here is a reference to the shading ring in the Olympus PT-EP01 launch release:
OLYMPUS | News Release: Olympus announces the PT-EP01 Underwater case for the OLYMPUS PEN E-PL1

I recall Dee posted a request for info on this shading ring, and Jack posted a reply that he would try to get some in stock. I wonder who has stock on this shading ring?
 
Wrong again, the Sea&Sea YS-110a (also in YS-01) D-TTL works well with Olympus cameras both DSLR and compact, it is your YS-90DX that will not TTL with fiber optics.

Stray light occurs in all housings using a pop-up flash to fire fiber optics and has nothing to do with a design flaw in the Olympus housings.

Phil Rudin
 
Wrong again, the Sea&Sea YS-110a (also in YS-01) D-TTL works well with Olympus cameras both DSLR and compact, it is your YS-90DX that will not TTL with fiber optics.

Stray light occurs in all housings using a pop-up flash to fire fiber optics and has nothing to do with a design flaw in the Olympus housings.

Phil Rudin

Back the truck up here! The YS-90DX operation is not my question. It is: Do reflections from the internal flash cause lens flare in a PT-EP01? That has nothing to do with an external strobe. I'm building my system and I need to know if it's a problem that I need to worry about.

Both Olympus and Sea & Sea seem to say it is a problem. Olympus makes their shade ring for the lenses used in the PT-E01 -- they must have had a concern about it, since they made a product to prevent it and made it part of the initial product release:
OLYMPUS | News Release: Olympus announces the PT-EP01 Underwater case for the OLYMPUS PEN E-PL1

Sea&Sea states it is a problem in their compatibility chart for the YS-110a here:
SEA&SEA |

These manufacturers seem to think it is a problem. Again, I just need to know if this is a problem, and how serious? I'm no expert, but hopefully you good people are. Hence my question. It sounds like nobody here thinks it's a serious problem. It sounds like a minor problem at the most. I think I'll just buy the shade ring and not have a concern.
 
Thanks for that recommendation, Phil. I ordered the book and got it today. It's terrific.
...
The strobes which work best with the Olympus cameras are the Inon S-2000 and Z-240 along with the Olympus UFL-1 and 2. This is because they will work both as manual strobes and as TTL strobes using fiber optic cords.

The Sea & Sea YS-90DX is preflash compatible and will fire using a fiber optic cable and Olympus cameras but only in manual. It does NOT do TTL using a fiber optic cable regardless of how you set your camera only one S&S strobe will do that with Olympus cameras....
Right, Phil. I've been using mine for years with a Nikonos TTL cable. That's the way I prefer. I had to search my notes to recall the issues with using these old YS-90DX strobes as optical slaves.

This problem with the YS-90 is due to when it was designed. At that time digital cameras were just starting to be used underwater. In the early days of digital cameras, there were problems with the old film strobes not working with the new digital cameras because of preflash. Sea&Sea tried to improve the design of their old film strobes to work with digital, but had problems with some brands of camera - Olympus being one of those brands.

There were actually three versions of the YS-90 type strobe before they got it almost right. These were the the YS-90 TTL Duo, the YS-90 AUTO DUO, the YS-90DX DUO. The YS-90DX DUO worked well with preflash when using wired TTL, but its optical slave TTL trigger was flakey with Olympus because of the short interval between preflash and main flash.

In short, Phil is right, it works MANUAL SLAVE but not TTL SLAVE. I used it on an Olympus in TTL mode for years with an HW converter and Nikonos cable. I prefer a hard wired cable, because it saves camera battery power and reduces heat in the housing, which leads to fog.

If you already own the YS-90DX and you want to re-use it, why not? The YS-90DX does work in SLAVE mode with optical trigger, but only in manual mode, not reliably with TTL on Olympus. Old timers have their quirks.

The current models of Sea&Sea strobes work just fine, no problems.
 
Ditto on the "use hard wired" strobe firing, soley to save battery life and reduce heat in housing from the internal camera strobe being used to trigger external strobe via fiber optic cable.

TTL is your friend.

Still loving my SP-350 with a hot-shoe to trigger DS-125 through an Ikelite housing!
 

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