My cake and eat it too?

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swimmer_spe

Contributor
Messages
637
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99
Location
Sudbury, Ontario
# of dives
50 - 99
I want a new camera. I have a point and shoot, but, it is not that great.

I want a camera that has the following:

SLR or DSLR
Takes great pictures on land.
Takes great pictures in the water.
Fully manual/automatic
interchangeable lenses
Has a housing made for it.

So, what are my options?
 
you might want to first look at what's "not so great" about your current point n shoot - current models take excellent pictures are are a hell of a lot cheaper to get underwater than a DSLR. I personally have no interest in the expense required to take my DSLR underwater.

having said that:

Any DSLR is capable of taking great pictures - it's up to the person holding it to actually capture great pictures.
Any DSLR will offer manual and auto modes (though some don't offer auto-flash within "auto" mode)
Every DSLR has interchangeable lenses

I'd find the brand you like, pick the format you like (full frame vs "crop" sensor) then look at the better bodies they offer - with what the housing and stobes and everything else will cost, it would seem silly to cheap out on the body. then look if a housing is available, it's pretty easy to figure out.

I personally like Nikon Bodies - If you prefer Canon or other, then look at those. . If I were in the market for a new DSLR and wanted to take it underwater, I personally would be looking at Nikon D7100, or holding my breath for a true D300 replacement (which I realize may never come).
 
From point and shoot to DSLR (you don't want an SLR as that would use film)?! That's a big leap in cost. You are probably looking at $5K USD at least: $1000 at least for a lower end DSLR, then $1500 for good lense, $1500 - $3000+ on the housing, $750 for a strobe, a few hundred on memory cards, $350 for land flash because many DSLR have no flash. Those are ballpark and don't add up all the little expenses that eats up a few hundred more at least. Pelican case to carry it in for example.

If you want great pics on land and water invest most of the money in lenses to get the best pics. There is a BIG difference between consumer grade lenses and pro lenses and it is worth every cent to get a pro quality lens. For Canon, that would be L series lenses denoted by an L in their name. Nikon has their line. Not only sharpness but things like bokeh which is how the out of focus stuff looks. Yes, that does help a lot. Pics you thought were blah can have a artistic look without you trying. The box you keep the media in i.e the body, does not have to be top end, just get best image size possible and look at frame rate for shooting motion.

Decide what you want to use i.e. pay for, on land then see if you can get a housing for it. Getting one should not be the issue for Canon or Nikon.

Note these cameras also shoot HD video meaning you can drop having separate devices however there are some drawbacks and advantages to using for video.

Then you have to lug all the junk with you when you go diving. The learning curve to get good images underwater is generally mountain steep. I just shoot video as it is easier to much easier and I can show someone what it was really like moving around rather than a cool still image.

If you are trying to improve shutter lag, then you can get better quality point and shoots, but when you step into DSLR you automatically need more sophisticated housings, i.e. bigger money. It's tough to get a setup in the middle of the range between point and shoot and DSLR. It tends to be the bottom cost and quality or high end cost and potential quality. Realize that having the monster rig doesn't mean you just jump in and shoot like Nat Geo. There is still a huge amount of learning about lighting and color underwater. If you are just going to shoot a bunch of blue pics and be done, then I suggest it isn't worth the money. Also remember to enjoy your dive on not spend the whole time trying to document everything you see, as an endless roll of individuals isn't so exciting but wide angle is not easy either. Most of this was learned through painful expensive experience on land and sea.
 
Another option to investigate is EVIL (Electronic Viewfinder with Interchangeable Lens) cameras instead of dSLRs. “SLR” stands for Single Lens Reflex where a mirror reflects the image from the lens through a prism to a viewfinder (usually eye level). Many EVIL cameras look the same but you actually look at a very small and high resolution digital display of the image. That eliminates the space and time delay consumed by the mirror swinging out of the way of the sensor. I shot film SLRs for decades and finally asked myself this question when converting: Do I really want to view what the lens sees or what the sensor produces?

There are one or two full-frame EVIL cameras on the market but most are APC or Micro 4/3. EVIL cameras and lenses tend to be much more compact than their dSLR brothers with the same size sensor. This can be an important factor if you travel with it because the housing and domes also get smaller and lighter. Housings are available for EVIL cameras made by Nikon, Cannon, Sony, Panasonic, and Olympus… have I forgotten any?

All EVIL cameras have “live view” displays like most point & shoot digitals and some add an eye-level electronic viewfinder… usually higher resolution.

Mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
You might think about travel as well. DSLR with housing and lenses and ports and camera bag=all your carry on, and on some puddle jumpers they'll tell you it's too big and want to stuff it in the front of the plane with the other luggage (ack!). Alternatives would be an advanced P&S or perhaps a mirrorless like the Olympus EM series, which is smaller and lighter than a DSLR in either full frame or DX. If you're getting a DSLR, (or a P & S for that matter) you'll want to shoot manual for the best results. The only exception I would make is the strobe, for which you want to have ttl capability and a housing that allows you to pop the flash up for optical sync.
 

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