MR11 conversion

[mitchy]

How easily, and at what cost could this light be converted to LED?

---------- Post added May 7th, 2012 at 03:37 PM ----------

Oops, here's the link:
SCUBA Diving Equipment for Technical, Sidemount, Rebreather, Wreck and Cave Diving: Dive Rite, Inc - Product Catalog - MR11 Sunspot HID Slimline Light

 

[Six2Life]

I emailed DR for a quote on converting my mr11 to LED. $265 including shipping is the price I was given. Not sure if that would change significantly for you since you're across the border.

He did not give any specifics on what the light specs would be when done and I didn't bother to ask. I probably won't consider the conversion until the HID bulb gives out, and even then, if I can get a new bulb for a reasonable price I'll likely just leave it as a HID.

 

[mitchy]

I was wondering if anyone had done a conversion themselves, and what it took as far as modifying the head or wiring. $265 is a bit steep.

 

[350xfire]

What LED will they put in it? You will find that $265 is not steep at all.
I would charge around that much and it would include: building a spacer/heatsink using a lathe, driver, LED and assembly. Depending on what you want may also need a new battery. I use LiIon. With the right driver you can use the NiMH DR... This is just a quick opinion as these mods I usually do on a case by case basis. You have to take into account whether the battery can be re-used, what driver, etc!

Also, was the light ever flooded? Need new orings? You don't want to re-do and then have it flood.

 

[mitchy]

I keep tossing around the idea of building a canister light from scratch, to a partial fabrication. I might be able to get this light for around a $100, but not sure what is left of the battery or how long the bulb has left. I was wondering if the bulb were to go, what it would cost to upgrade it to LED. Sounds like it might be cost prohibitive.

 

[350xfire]

Well, I'm not sure what you are after but typically for $100 you'll end up with a hack job... Unless of course, you have access to all the tooling to do it nicely. Then there is material- Delrin costs $20-30 per foot, aluminum about $15-20... If you want to anodize, you'll need to add that, etc., etc.

You have a good foundation with the DR so why not re-use it when the bulb goes out?

 

[Packhorse]

$265us seems about right for a factory upgrade.

I charge about $250nz which is somewhat cheaper but not a factor upgrade and postage may cost you $10-$15 more.

 

[Hickdive]

I had my DR MR11 factory upgraded from HID to LED when I managed to break the HID.

The torch is noticeably brighter (according to the blurb at the time about 1000 lumen compared to the original 10W HID 800 lumen IIRC) and the beam is just as tight but the big difference is the burn time. I get in excess of six hours out the LED, ideal for a weekend of diving without having to bring my charger.

I have no electronic skills or knowledge so I have no idea whether it could be done cheaper/easier as a DIY job but the factory job was professional, perfect and quick (even allowing for shipping between Florida and the UK) The only painful thing was UPS demanding a hefty whack in Duty, VAT and handling before they would deliver it back to me.

 

[RIDiver60]

I just finished upgrading my MR11. I purchased most of the components from Cutter Electronics in Australia for $75 including shipping. I found this site helpful Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades | Damien Siviero Photography. I purchased the triple Cutter XML LEDs mounted on a 32mm board, Cute Optic, and RCD-24 1.2 amp driver with flying leads and thermal tape. A freind of mine works at a machine shop and made the aluminum heat sink for me, 1.5" long which may be larger than needed and was about the max length I think would fit with the driver I used. I attached the board to one end of the heat sink and driver to the other using thermal tape. The diameter of the heat sink was initially too large and I gradually reduced it using a bench top belt sander. Not the best method but I kept rotating the heat sink to try and get the diameter even. I think I ended up with a fairly good friction fit between the heat sink and the light head. I bought Artic Silver Thermal paste at radio shack and coated the outside of the heat sink with it.

I had another friend solder leads to the LED board, the soldering points were very close together and I woudn't have been able to do that correctly. I think Cutter Electronics would solder leads to the LED board for a small fee.

If you can make or have a machine shop make the heat sink and get the leads soldered to the LED board, I'd say the rest is fairly easy with basic soldering skills. I've read many posts praising the work of both 350xFire and Packhorse if you decide against DIY. I also found a site that will sell the heat sink, led board and driver as a drop in unit if you want to check that out.
sump donkey

 

[Six2Life]

I asked Dive Rite for some clarification on the LED specs and warranty and this is the response I got:

"The specs would be almost identical to what our LUX light was. The module is very similar. As for warranty the new module would have a one year warranty against manufacturing defects."

Dive Rite's website shows 555 lumens output for the LED vs. about 500 for the HID with about 50% more burn time.