Background: My boyfriend (BF) and I are budget-backpacking-scuba diving SEA for ~8 months (2/8 complete). Our goal is to see as much healthy hard coral in the Coral Triangle as possible. We brought all our own gear (excluding weights & tanks of course), including full 3mm wetsuits, which we carry in 75L backpacks. The prices listed are for two people, unless otherwise noted. Apologies if the report is too long!
Santander: We found some videos of excellent reefs (from Oct 2023) online and had to pass through Santander anyway (from Moalboal to Apo Island) so we thought we would give it a try. In addition, Santander seems to be very low-key and relatively unknown as a diving destination, so we figured we could explore.
Day 0: From our accommodation by Panagsama Beach we took a tricycle (200P) to the Jollibee in Moalboal (the official bus stop) and ended up waiting ~10 mins for a bus to show up. It was ~1.5 hrs to the Bato-Samboan bus stop (276P) and the bus went along the coast the entire time. We had very nice views of the ocean. From the bus stop we took a ~5 mins tricycle ride to Masayahin (50P).
The accommodation: I have nothing but nice things to say for Masayahin. I highly recommend this dive resort (as well as Santander as a location!). The resort has only been running since 2024 so the facilities are still brand-new. The rooms are nice: the bed is probably the most comfortable I’ve had in PH since the Holiday Inn Newport World in Manila, the AC works well, drinking water is provided and replenished, everything felt very clean, and the WiFi was dependable (adequate speed). We ate a few meals at their small “restaurant” and it was some of the best food we’ve had in PH.
The owners, Mark and Kay, were some of the nicest people we have met. Upon hearing that we were budget backpacking, they upgraded us to a better room with a kitchenette (free of charge!) so that we could cook our own meals to save money. They also honored our requests for dive sites and essentially let us do whatever we wanted on the dives. They did many kind things for us during our stay, including doing our laundry (despite not having a laundry service), helping us order takeout from a nearby restaurant, informing us of ferry schedules and accurate pricing for tricycle rides (so we wouldn’t be ripped off anymore…), and even dropping us off at the ferry terminal when we left for no extra charge.
We were the only guests during our stay since it was the low season and they were happy to chat with us every night. They also guided the dives and helped cook meals! You could feel the love and care they dedicated to the resort in every aspect.
As a small note: they have several cats roaming the property and have notices stating that the cats are all up to date on their shots (tick and flea, rabies, etc.), which is the first time we have noticed this in PH so far.
The dive operation: We were overall very pleased, but there are a few things that could be improved.
Generally we were ready by 8:00, on the boat (small speedboat) by 8:30, and starting the first dive shortly before 9:00. We would do two dives off of the boat with a 1 hr SI, return to the resort for a longer SI (~2-2.5 hrs), and then go back onto the boat for the last dive. During the SI, the two boat hands changed our tanks.
Tanks were a little underfilled (~2700 PSI). The dives were very hands-off, which for us was good because we wanted to only look at corals and we are not new divers. It felt more as if we were diving with some friends in a group, rather than at a resort on a guided dive.
As a note: there are a lot of steps to get down to the shore from the resort. The staff carried our gear (in provided crates) up and down for us as well as onto/off of the boat.
There was also a weird relationship between the owners and the two guys who managed their boat. If the boat guys didn’t want to go out that day then we had to shore dive.
Day 1: The boat guys said that the water was too choppy so we had to change plans last minute. Mark and Kay drove us (and all the gear) 5 mins down the road so we could shore dive.
Dive 1: Colase
Max depth 53ft, 57 mins, min water temp 82F.
Although we went deep at the beginning, we spent most of the time in the shallows (~10ft) because this was a GORGEOUS reef that continued for a very long time. Healthy and reminiscent of Cebu’s fringing reefs pre-typhoon (aka what Moalboal used to look like). Fields of heliopora and lots of fingering and bouldering porites. Once you pass the section that was cleared out for boat entry, there are still some surviving acropora patches. Overall Colase fluctuated between 50-80% coverage. One of our top sites ever.
Dive 2: Colase
Max depth 41ft, 55 mins, min water temp 83F.
Dive 3: Masayahin House Reef
Max depth 51ft, 49 mins, min water temp 83F.
Some interesting large coral bommies, mainly bouldering porites.
Day 2: We were able to use the boat today to explore some sites further away.
Dive 1: Liloan Port
Max depth 68ft, 51 mins, min water temp 81F.
We saw some very large bouldering porites, but not a lot else.
Dive 2: Stairway
Max depth 61ft, 53 mins, min water temp 81F.
Pretty much the same as Liloan Port.
Dive 3: Emoha House Reef
Max depth 22ft, 59 mins, min water temp 82F.
Not as healthy as Colase, but more diverse. There were many spots where you could see damage from Crown of Thorns Starfish (and the starfish themselves…). You could also see visible anchor damage from boats. Lots of beautiful acropora though, with huge surviving tables that have not fallen over. Fluctuated between 50-80% coverage as well.
Day 3: Originally we had planned to go to Sumilon Island today, but the boat guys said that the water was too choppy. We didn’t mind at all, because this gave us the opportunity to do shallow dives at the two sites we wanted to repeat: Colase & Emoha.
Dive 1: Colase
Max depth 96ft, 52 mins, min water temp 82F.
Since we were doing Colase twice, we decided to do a deep dive for the first dive to see if we could find some baby reef sharks. Unfortunately we didn’t see them.
Dive 2: Colase
Max depth 20ft, 60 mins, min water temp 83F.
Probably one of the best dives we’ve had ever since we stayed in the shallows the entire time to revel in the coral.
Dive 3: Emoha House Reef
Max depth 16ft, 59 mins, min water temp 82F.
Confirmed that we preferred Colase, but was nevertheless a great dive, also staying in the shallows to survey the coral.
Final conclusions: Santander was a low-key place full of gems (both people & reefs!). We are definitely going back.
Santander: We found some videos of excellent reefs (from Oct 2023) online and had to pass through Santander anyway (from Moalboal to Apo Island) so we thought we would give it a try. In addition, Santander seems to be very low-key and relatively unknown as a diving destination, so we figured we could explore.
Day 0: From our accommodation by Panagsama Beach we took a tricycle (200P) to the Jollibee in Moalboal (the official bus stop) and ended up waiting ~10 mins for a bus to show up. It was ~1.5 hrs to the Bato-Samboan bus stop (276P) and the bus went along the coast the entire time. We had very nice views of the ocean. From the bus stop we took a ~5 mins tricycle ride to Masayahin (50P).
The accommodation: I have nothing but nice things to say for Masayahin. I highly recommend this dive resort (as well as Santander as a location!). The resort has only been running since 2024 so the facilities are still brand-new. The rooms are nice: the bed is probably the most comfortable I’ve had in PH since the Holiday Inn Newport World in Manila, the AC works well, drinking water is provided and replenished, everything felt very clean, and the WiFi was dependable (adequate speed). We ate a few meals at their small “restaurant” and it was some of the best food we’ve had in PH.
The owners, Mark and Kay, were some of the nicest people we have met. Upon hearing that we were budget backpacking, they upgraded us to a better room with a kitchenette (free of charge!) so that we could cook our own meals to save money. They also honored our requests for dive sites and essentially let us do whatever we wanted on the dives. They did many kind things for us during our stay, including doing our laundry (despite not having a laundry service), helping us order takeout from a nearby restaurant, informing us of ferry schedules and accurate pricing for tricycle rides (so we wouldn’t be ripped off anymore…), and even dropping us off at the ferry terminal when we left for no extra charge.
We were the only guests during our stay since it was the low season and they were happy to chat with us every night. They also guided the dives and helped cook meals! You could feel the love and care they dedicated to the resort in every aspect.
As a small note: they have several cats roaming the property and have notices stating that the cats are all up to date on their shots (tick and flea, rabies, etc.), which is the first time we have noticed this in PH so far.
The dive operation: We were overall very pleased, but there are a few things that could be improved.
Generally we were ready by 8:00, on the boat (small speedboat) by 8:30, and starting the first dive shortly before 9:00. We would do two dives off of the boat with a 1 hr SI, return to the resort for a longer SI (~2-2.5 hrs), and then go back onto the boat for the last dive. During the SI, the two boat hands changed our tanks.
Tanks were a little underfilled (~2700 PSI). The dives were very hands-off, which for us was good because we wanted to only look at corals and we are not new divers. It felt more as if we were diving with some friends in a group, rather than at a resort on a guided dive.
As a note: there are a lot of steps to get down to the shore from the resort. The staff carried our gear (in provided crates) up and down for us as well as onto/off of the boat.
There was also a weird relationship between the owners and the two guys who managed their boat. If the boat guys didn’t want to go out that day then we had to shore dive.
Day 1: The boat guys said that the water was too choppy so we had to change plans last minute. Mark and Kay drove us (and all the gear) 5 mins down the road so we could shore dive.
Dive 1: Colase
Max depth 53ft, 57 mins, min water temp 82F.
Although we went deep at the beginning, we spent most of the time in the shallows (~10ft) because this was a GORGEOUS reef that continued for a very long time. Healthy and reminiscent of Cebu’s fringing reefs pre-typhoon (aka what Moalboal used to look like). Fields of heliopora and lots of fingering and bouldering porites. Once you pass the section that was cleared out for boat entry, there are still some surviving acropora patches. Overall Colase fluctuated between 50-80% coverage. One of our top sites ever.
Dive 2: Colase
Max depth 41ft, 55 mins, min water temp 83F.
Dive 3: Masayahin House Reef
Max depth 51ft, 49 mins, min water temp 83F.
Some interesting large coral bommies, mainly bouldering porites.
Day 2: We were able to use the boat today to explore some sites further away.
Dive 1: Liloan Port
Max depth 68ft, 51 mins, min water temp 81F.
We saw some very large bouldering porites, but not a lot else.
Dive 2: Stairway
Max depth 61ft, 53 mins, min water temp 81F.
Pretty much the same as Liloan Port.
Dive 3: Emoha House Reef
Max depth 22ft, 59 mins, min water temp 82F.
Not as healthy as Colase, but more diverse. There were many spots where you could see damage from Crown of Thorns Starfish (and the starfish themselves…). You could also see visible anchor damage from boats. Lots of beautiful acropora though, with huge surviving tables that have not fallen over. Fluctuated between 50-80% coverage as well.
Day 3: Originally we had planned to go to Sumilon Island today, but the boat guys said that the water was too choppy. We didn’t mind at all, because this gave us the opportunity to do shallow dives at the two sites we wanted to repeat: Colase & Emoha.
Dive 1: Colase
Max depth 96ft, 52 mins, min water temp 82F.
Since we were doing Colase twice, we decided to do a deep dive for the first dive to see if we could find some baby reef sharks. Unfortunately we didn’t see them.
Dive 2: Colase
Max depth 20ft, 60 mins, min water temp 83F.
Probably one of the best dives we’ve had ever since we stayed in the shallows the entire time to revel in the coral.
Dive 3: Emoha House Reef
Max depth 16ft, 59 mins, min water temp 82F.
Confirmed that we preferred Colase, but was nevertheless a great dive, also staying in the shallows to survey the coral.
Final conclusions: Santander was a low-key place full of gems (both people & reefs!). We are definitely going back.
