Trip Report Malapascua and Anilao 2025

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Asanoth

Contributor
Messages
82
Reaction score
41
Location
CZ
# of dives
50 - 99
Hello,
we took a two weeks diving trip this January, visiting Malapascua and Anilao. We had visited Anilao before and liked it a lot, and chose Malapascua for a chance of pelagic fauna: threshers of course but also possibly tigers and mantas.
We arrived to CEB from Bangkok via Davao - Davao is a really tiny airport, but we were able to get there both cash and a sim card.
We landed at about 10 am and managed to catch the 11:30 bus. We arrived to Maya Port at 16:25, last boat was at 5 pm. They tried to charge the foreigners more (first 300, after some resistance 250 instead of 200), as there supposedly were not enough passengers. Eventually, they refunded us the 50, as more people showed up. A taxi arrived when it was getting dark, but we were already afloat and the captain refused to return. I am not sure if he knew his landing light,or however you call it, did not work, so we landed in the dark. The sea was a bit choppy and people got wet.
Malapascua, at least Logon, is an ugly village with quite a lot of trash lying around. The food we found is either bad, expensive, or poisonous (more on that later). But again, the Filippino food is not really something to write home about anywhere. We stayed in Hideaway Resort: cheap,clean and basic, large rooms with furniture for drying some gear, I would definitely recommend it to budget minded travellers.
We chose to dive with MBI. I do not have anything wrong to say about them, everything felt professional and very much customer oriented. Gear is new and in good condition. They are not the cheapest on the Island, but much cheaper than Evolution. They do not have nitrox (but could probably order it). Gear is included except for torches, so you effectively pay 250 extra for each night dive. I would recommend buying your own torch anyway, as it is much easier to find critters wit the light, even in the middle of the day.
Day 1: Kimud and Monad. Threshers are super easy to see, They came up very close. Second Kimud dive was worse, worse visibility, less sharks, more people. Flash is forbidden at Kimud, as threshers are easily scared. Tigers can be seen at Monad, apparently once or twice a week. We did not see them and the third dive was bland. We returned at around 2pm and did a a lighthouse night dive in the evening. The main aim is the mandarin fish. we ended up being in a circle of 12 or so divers around one outcrop for 20 or 25 minutes, it was all dark… We did see the fish, but the part of the dive after this was way better. We saw one cuttlefish, crustaceans, seahorses. I had a really good grilled squid at Avrill's for dinner (that is important).
Day 2: Gato Island. Nice diving, but not outstanding as far as the Philippines go. Two dives. In the evening we went to Evo Reef. That one one of the best dives I have ever done. The crustacean diversity was unbelievable, we saw some species I could not have even imagined. One cuttlefish and a lot of other critters. I had another Avrill's squid for dinner.
Day 3: I woke up in 2 am and my insides cleaned up so well I could have probably taken a colonoscopy in the morning (that is why the squid thing is important). This went on til the morning, when I got fever and spent the rest of the day in bed with 39°C. My wife did two local dives, enjoyed the macro.
Day 4: Luckilly I felt ok, so we did one afternoon dive at Lapu Lapu: A lot of seahorses, a few interesting nudis, good dive; and another night dive at Evo Reef. It was not as good as the first time, but still very good.

I missed 6 dives because of that damn squid. So many people were eating there, I really thought it would be ok. MBI only asked for 1000 pesos for my 6 and my wife's 2 cancelled local dives, which was very gracious. Also, MBI told us on the first night to be careful where we eat, that some people eat at the market and they end up like I did: The "market" are apparently the restaurants on the village square, even though it has nothing to do with an actual market.
We both enjoyed local dives more than the trips. Of course, threshers are special.
 
We took an 11 am boat and got to Cebu shortly after 5 pm. There was an older couple, quite nervous (and rude) over lunch and toilet breaks, probably rushing for a flight. If you care about 5 minutes, you probably did some poor planning. They did not speak English, though.
We flew out the next morning at 8:30. We went to PITX (not sure it was there the last time we visited two years ago?) and took a bus to Batangas, a jeepney to Anilao pier (70 pp) and a trike to ASDC (50 pp, we paid 60 - probably should have been less, as it was also 50 to go all the way to the crossing on the way back).
There was one working boy in the ASDC, a cook, who started on this very day and of course, Rambo the dog. We were the only guests and the place really seemed to take a downward path. Our room was not cleaned, there were hair in the bathroom and also a lot of smell. It felt like a ghost city. Gina arrived in the evening and at least the room was cleaned, but she put on quite a demotivotional speech about a typhoon that was there, and how it is not so good anymore, and to what places we should have gone instead. We asked if we can do a night dive and she said that she had no guide, so no. We could have gone with her, but I guess she was not in the mood.
The pricing in ASDC went a lot up compared to two years ago. They do not include food anymore except for basic light breakfast (toast, baozi or rice with egg on demand), and the basic 2 dives package is 10 % more expensive (plus food, which is served only on weekends at 250 pp), the extra dives are 1200 (local) or 1700 (by the boat, 1000 before). There is no blackwater diving anymore. This is not to complain, prices everywhere went up, just purely informative. Anyway, if you do 4 dives a day and have your own gear, price without meals is just 1000 - 2000 lower than Buceo (which is about 11000?), which, if I understand that correctly, offers quite a different level of service. There is some discount at ASDC, though, and you can also book a room through booking.com and arrange diving later, which costs somewhat the same.
Speaking of gear, they had brand new wetsuits, just 2,5 or 3 mm (the water was 26°C, but they were willing to give my wife 2 pieces), which seemed ordered from Aliexpress and my got torn on the 2nd dive (and got replaced).
There is a restaurant in a resort a few hundred meters up north, food is not good, and another one 50 further meters in a shop: Their food is very good on Filippino standard and fairly cheap, but they close at 7.
Day 1: We did 4 dives with Gina, Monte Carlo, Mantis 1 and Pier Uno during the day. It was obvious she wanted to save fuel, so we went to close destinations, but it was not for a worse. Highlight of the three dives was the flamboyant cuttlefish. Of course, a lot of nudibranches. Gina is a good guide.
We did a local night dive: there were a lot of shrimps and worms swimming around, I mean A LOT, which sort of cured my idea of doing a blackwater dive :D . At the very end, almost on surface, we saw a starry night octopus. Unfortunately, my observation could not have taken too long, as I started having difficulties breathing and in three breaths ran out of air. My valve showed 40 bars. Luckily, I was at the surface already and the depth below me was maybe 2,5 meters. There were warning signs before, especially having 270 bars on the third dive's start. I did not know what it meant, now I have the experience. I am sure the staff knew something was off, they even spoke about it before the third dive, but nobody told me.
Day 2: More people showed up and it really made the place come alive a bit. The staff tried to give me the same manometer, but I was adamant they change it (I can already see the comments "I would never dive with them again". But what do you do...) There were 6 of us and we had 3 guides. We stuck together, which led to crowding sometimes. We did Koala, Arthur's Rock and Matu in the afternoon. The morning dives did seem like more "general beautiful diving" instead of looking for interesting creepers. We still saw a lot, I mean, we were still in Anilao :) . Matu was an ugly site, but with some interesting fauna, including ghost pipefish, and A LOT of white eyed morays. At night we finally (this was our third night) did Anilao Pier. We saw all 4 common cephalopod species: Sepioteuthis, a few Berry's bobtails, one tropical bottletail and, of course, a few coconut octopuses, which are the stars here. Also some bobbits and a few interesting gastropods. We did another dive here two days ago, on both dives we saw only one bottletail, so I am not sure how common they are. Both were still great dives.
Day 3: In the morning we went to Ligpo. It is a nice island with beautiful corals and a lot of blue dragons. Unfortunately, from this day on, we had a guide who was just hanging there and was not really looking for stuff. That was a major drawback. In the afternoon I went to Basura with this guide and Gina as well, who apparently did this as her fun photo dive. I obviously stuck to her, and the "guide" was somewhere 8 meters below me 20 meters away doing his stuff. We stopped the boat like 40 meters from the ASDC, so that really sort of stretched the "boat dive" idea. We saw a lot of dorids and some humongous sea cucumbers: They were like 1,5 meters long and thick as a leg... At night we went to Matu again, there were maybe 7 of us and at least 4 of it were ASDC staff. I do not know who was the guide and who did their photo fun dive. So I guess it was sort of an unguided dive. Interesting dive, we saw a Pleurobranchus, but no cephalopods except for Sepioteuthis.
At Ligpo trip there was an Austrian girl, who told me that the no-fly limit recommendation is now 18 hours, not 24. That allowed us to do 2 morning dives on the 5th day. Too bad I did not know that before, we could have done 2 more local dives at Malapascua… :-/
Day 4: We went to Mayumi and El Pinoy. Those were nice dives with a lot to see, at Mayumi we saw our second and last flamboyant cuttlefish like 1 minutes into the dive. We did another dive at a different part of Basura in the afternoon, which was the only dull dive we did in Anilao. At night we went to the pier again, see day 2 for details.
Day 5: We did Cathedral and Koala again. There was a bit of current, so the site was fairly different with a lot of fish.

We set off after lunch. The bus from Batangas went all around southern Manila before reaching PITX.

Honestly, I cannot recommend ASDC anymore. One thing is the state of our room upon arrival and the fact that one (but only one) guide was more of a guard than guide. The fact they wanted me to dive with a broken manometer is another thing. But most importantly, I did not not feel welcomed there at all. The first day was ok, but after that, whenever I asked something, even something as simple as where a good dive site for a certain species is, I felt like I was bothering them. In the end, I really felt more like a nuissance which hinders Gina's diving with her friends, than a paying customer. When I shared this with my wife, she said "Exactly!"
It seemed most of the customers are regulars, so for them it might be more like visiting a past schoolmate. The guides are probably not professionals, but more of a community members who act as dive guides (that says nothing about their diving and spotting skills) and have other jobs. This sounds like it might create a welcoming environment, but I really did not feel that way. It seemed different the last time, but it was my first time diving after my OWD course, so I also had a different perspective. I only have 99 dives now (yeah, 99... damn that squid!), so I did not visit a lot of centres, but I did not feel like this anywhere else.
If I wanted to go to Anilao again, I would definitely do more research, as there are many dive centres, probably going to the south-eastern Mabini, which seems better for cephalopods (but also way rougher in winter), but I think I would anyway choose another location, such as Romblon or even Dauin. I would be willing to go to ASDC again (not sure they would be willing to accept me), but it would not be my first choice. Still, it might, I do not know, be the only budget choice when you do not have your own gear.

This said, I greatly enjoyed my time underwater both in Anilao and Malapascua and honestly, my Egypt trip from August seems very bland now. I did 27 dives in 13 total days in the country. I could have done 9 more: 6 for the squid, 2 the last morning on Malapascua and one night dive in Anilao. So up to 36 dives were theoretically possible within out itinerary.

Payment note: We paid for all our diving via Wise. That comes off great in a country where you have 2,5 % surcharge on cash withdrawal on top of your bank's charges.
Gluten free note: Filippinos really tried to make sure they would cook something safe for me. They were willing to show me sauce bottles and did not mind I took my time. This is in stark contrast with central Thailand, where restaurant staff often just said "no" and sent me away (even though they obviously had some gluten free food).

All the best! :)
 
Thank you for sharing! I’m looking at Anilao and PG trip next, so really good info:-)

Next time try Dauin - we stayed at Bongo Bongo and had a great time and it’s was very budget friendly
 

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