Making a Reg O2 Clean

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dschonbrun

Contributor
Messages
304
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Location
New York
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi all,

I am interested to know how difficult it is to take a standard recreational reg that has a 40% 02 limit, and turn it into an O2 clean reg?

The reason I ask is that I'm going to purchase a deco/stage bottle and would like to know if I need to spend the extra money on a 02 clean reg or can simply update a reg I already own?

My understanding i that the o-rings need to be replaced, and the lubricant need to to be switched to an O2 clean version. Is this all, and how difficult is it to do?

Cheers,
D
 
too many variables. Depends on the reg, depends on the materials of the parts in the rebuild kit, depends on your skills, depends on your tools.

No titanium regs
some hp seat material is not compatable
do you have the experience to be detail oriented and do you have a clue as to what you are doing, Do you even know how to rebuild a reg no less O2 clean it
Do you have the hand tools, do you have an ultrasonic cleaner (not needed supposedly but I would argue) do you have an accurate IP gauge (not a 2"), do you have a magnahelic gauge


give some more details.
 
I have no experience with reg rebuilding or cleaning. I would be paying a reputable shop to do the work.

I can purchase a new O2 clean reg as well... Dive Rite, OMS, many others... just want to understand my options.

Cheers,
D
 
dshon, these prissy, defensive, dive companies would not offer an reg which is claimed to be NITROX safe if it were not in fact, oxygen safe. I've hooked various NITROX regs to pure O2 with no problems. It is amazing how people can screw up something which is perfectly good. For example, if a used "NITROX' reg were offered up I would be suspicious of it. However, merely using one of these regs with an air tank will have no effect at all of its safety. On the other hand, if there is a chance that the piston is riding in a glob of silicone go to plan B. Only the first stage needs to be worked. Just break it down into parts and separate out anything which looks like plastic (except TFE OK). Soak all metal parts in ENSOLV for a few minutes. Clean the plastic in soapy water. Inspect the other parts for wear. If it makes you feel better and can earn an attaboy from somebody, use Viton O rings. However, I suggest you use the original type parts even if the O rings were nitrile (buna N). Nitrile will last a long time in HP oxygen but not years, so valves need Viton for sure, not regulators. Nitrile is tougher than Viton in some situations and some piston regs will lose a bit of performance unless the original type rings are used. Grease it up with white stuff, you know, Christo whatsis.
 
Pescador

Very funny... "christo whatsis?"... I should use Crisco as a regulator lube?

Alrighty... so the first stage seems to be the greater concern, which makes sense since the pressure at the second stage is only about 135-150 psi.

I'll find a simple DIN regulator that fits my needs... don't anticipate using more than %50 O2 for the most part anyways.

Cheers Mate,
David
 
brun, Scubapro likes Christolube but either that or Krytox will do the job. There are different grades of these so you'll have to do a search or poll the tech room. I just use whatever they're selling on EBay SCUBA.
 
Pescador

Very funny... "christo whatsis?"... I should use Crisco as a regulator lube?

Alrighty... so the first stage seems to be the greater concern, which makes sense since the pressure at the second stage is only about 135-150 psi.

I'll find a simple DIN regulator that fits my needs... don't anticipate using more than %50 O2 for the most part anyways.

Cheers Mate,
David

Some have been known not to do any special cleaning for 50%
 
Scared Silly, thanks for the reference... that should be helpful. I'm also going to contact SP/Uwatec to see if I can get a set of schematics.
 
Some have been known not to do any special cleaning for 50%

I think at 41% you spontaneously combust. :wink:
 

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