Magnetic swithces for lights

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adm3745

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Does anyone know where I can buy magnetic switches or reed switches online?

Ideally I am looking for a push button switch just like the one on the Intova LED to replace the toggle on my can light. If these cannot be bought does anyone know the parts I need to make my own?

If this isn't possible, a source for plain reed switches would be good..
 
If using a reed keep in mind most can't handle very much current so they're generally used in an application like a switch that will apply a gate voltage to a MOSFET to allow the MOSFET to turn on like a switch which applies the voltage to your driver module. This allows the reed to have a small current through it whereas the current going through regulator/LED is conducting through the MOSFET.

Usually MOSFETs take 5V or so for the gate and once that voltage is applied to the gate it 'forward biases' the MOSFET effectively making it a short. Some may take more voltage for a gate to fully forward bias them which makes it like a piece of wire. Without the voltage applied to the gate they'll be open and have a very large resistance.

If you can get a reed rated for enough current for your light you should be ok using it. I would put some extra safety factor in it by using one rated for more current than you're running through the light.

I was looking at doing this for a different light but changed my mind and went with some other mods so while I haven't done it before I understand how it's done.. I also work as an electronic tech in the Navy.

I usually get electronic components from www.newark.com
 
I have used this model (65985K15) from McMaster

McMaster-Carr

to switch a FET when I build this light. Works very well.

Guts.jpg

Light_Total.jpg
 
ELOBAU

These switches are all IP67 or more .Switch itself it is combination magnet , spring and reed switch

Not sure I understand... You mean these are fully sealed mag push button switches?
 
ELOBAU

These switches are all IP67 or more .Switch itself it is combination magnet , spring and reed switch

IP67 means it is waterproof to 1m depth. Most divers go deeper than that ;). I'm not saying these won't work, just that they aren't designed for this application.

There is also a problem with all pushbutton switches that at some depth, the water pressure will activate them, and you can no longer control the light. For some switches this may occur at a depth far greater than the light will ever see, but I have heard of case where it happened at recreational depths. It might be a problem if the switch activates with little force.

D
 
This is why the intova switches appeal too me. I have no clue how they work though and like my lights to much to take them apart. I had those down to 155 without a problem. At that depth they also didn't seem to feel any different when I activated it. No idea why...

Couldn't find a reed with enough current rating... I'm direct driving a P7 for the meantime so I should prob get something good to 3 amps at least.
 
This is why the intova switches appeal too me. I have no clue how they work though and like my lights to much to take them apart. I had those down to 155 without a problem. At that depth they also didn't seem to feel any different when I activated it. No idea why...

Couldn't find a reed with enough current rating... I'm direct driving a P7 for the meantime so I should prob get something good to 3 amps at least.

Here's a picture of the driver board of the Cree MC-E diving light that is switched by a rotating magnet on the body. I don't understand circuit boards but perhaps you can. I don't see any reed switches. Someone said it was just switched with FET's.

In case this helps, here is the picture:
 

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