I'm fairly new to sidemount diving using HP100s. I just tried a pair of Faber 85s and loved them. I am thinking of buying a pair and want to know if the galvanized tanks are worth a bit more. Also, should I try the 95s before I put the money down? Thanks for the help.
LP 85s, does galvanized make any difference?
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JamesBon92007
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I have some steel tanks from the 60s and the galvanized ones are still in good shape on the outside. I have one that is painted and I have to re-paint it every five years or so. I'd definitely go with the galvanized.
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can you reliably get overfills on them? if not , then there really isn't a point to switch from your 100's. If you can, I'd get galvanized
claymore
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The Worthington 85's are about 3# heavier than the Fabers
bamafan
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Painted Faber lp85's get floaty in the butt of the tank. If you are diving PST hp 100's they stay much more trim in the water. Even with a cave fill the lp 85's don't hold much more gas than the hp 100's. If it is gas you are wanting I would go to bigger tanks than lp 95's especially if you can't get cave fills. What exactly did you like about the 85's?
Rred
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In theory, when you cut, scrape, or wear through any "coating" on a steel tank, it exposes bare steel which will then rust. And the rust will spread under the coating unless it is intimately linked.
But with galvanized coatings, if you cut the coating, the zinc will be consumed before the steel, protecting the steel from rust. And supposedly the zinc will re-form to some extent (i.e. electroplating through galvanic action) to re-protect the spot that was nicked.
So the ugly zinc is still the best long-term protection unless you can keep the other coatings intact. It is also fairly simple to get a can of "cold zinc" paint and recoat a galvanized tank.
They don't zinc the inside of tanks because it can be toxic when inhaled.
But with galvanized coatings, if you cut the coating, the zinc will be consumed before the steel, protecting the steel from rust. And supposedly the zinc will re-form to some extent (i.e. electroplating through galvanic action) to re-protect the spot that was nicked.
So the ugly zinc is still the best long-term protection unless you can keep the other coatings intact. It is also fairly simple to get a can of "cold zinc" paint and recoat a galvanized tank.
They don't zinc the inside of tanks because it can be toxic when inhaled.
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