Looking For Advice on First BC Purchase

[Nation of Heat]

Hoping to source some wisdom from the community before I buy my first BC.....here are some basics about the type of diving I do:

Now and for the foreseeable future I'll be diving warm water in the Caribbean, single tank al80s, and flying in. Unlikely to dive doubles or try sidemount or tec anytime soon. Started diving 3 years ago and have about 30 dives so far. Best description is probably "aggressive recreational traveler"....i.e i'm serious about learning, but realistically will probably only be able to dive 30-50 dives a year. Some additional context....I will be mostly diving with my fiance, so eventually would like us to have similar gear setups. I say this b/c while I'm more attracted to a barebones bp/w, I suspect she'll be more into the familiarity of what we learned with....

That said, I've been eyeing the hybrid backpack type packages from Dive Gear Express and was hoping for some input as to a) the general choice, given the context I gave above about my situation and b) whether the additional cost of the DiveRite option is justifiable.

Option 1: DiveRite Transpac + Diveright 25lb wing +weight pockets--$700 ( Link )

Option 2: OMS IQ Lite + 27lb wing + weight pockets--$400 ( Link )

My first reaction was that that's a pretty steep premium for the DiveRite for what seems like similar packages....but hoping to get it right the first time, so figured I'd ask for some feedback. Any input is welcome, about these two options or anything else...

 

[Cap335]

I have had a Transpac, I did not like it for travel because I found it bulky to travel with and the OMS looks similar. I would look at the Zeagle Express Tech or the Aqua Lung Zuma both pack well.

 

[HantsDiver]

Ali backplate - brand don't matter.

One piece harness and jewellery - brand don't matter.

30lb single tank wing - brand not important but if you can afford it second hand halcyon will do you good.

Don't get weight pockets or junk comfort harness.

 

[Nation of Heat]

Ali backplate - brand don't matter.

Don't get weight pockets or junk comfort harness.

So what's the best way to handle ditchable weight? With standard jacket bc and no wetsuit or a 2mm shorty I typically have been using 8lbs. I know the bp is less buoyant....but will it eliminate the need for weight altogether?

 

[cool_hardware52]

So what's the best way to handle ditchable weight? With standard jacket bc and no wetsuit or a 2mm shorty I typically have been using 8lbs. I know the bp is less buoyant....but will it eliminate the need for weight altogether?

For warm water diving you won't need much ballast. Ballast is required to overcome the positive buoyancy of exposure suits and positively buoyant cylinders.

The typical tropical diver will be using 3mm suit (or less) and typically buoyant al 80 cylinders.

With a 3mm suit (usually 3-5 lbs positive) and an al 80 (typically +4 empty and -2 full) a neutral diver will need 7-8 lbs of ballast. (most of us are pretty close to neutral unless you significantly overweight, we are after all mostly salt water)

A typical stainless back plate and harness is about -6 lbs and the typical regulator is ~1.5 ~2 lbs negative. It's very common for divers in thin suit using buoyant tanks to use only their SS plate, harness and reg as ballast.

***BUT, BUT, BUT*** what about ditchable weight?????

How negative will this diver ever be worst case? ~ May be 5-6 lbs at the surface at the beginning of the dive and a max of 9-10 lbs at depth is they immediately swim down to ~100 + feet.

Should they carry extra ballast so they have something to ditch? Kinda silly.

Should they use a light weight plate so they can have 2-3 lbs of ditchable ballast? See above.

In cold water with exposure suits that may approach 30 lbs positive ditchable ballast may have a place, but in warm water a properly weighted diver has to realize that they only way they can get positive at the surface in the event of a buoyancy failure is to ditch the entire rig.

Tobin

 

[stuartv]

I would suggest this:

DGX Custom - DGX Singles Harness / Backplate / Wing Package

Their wing is the same as the Dive Rite Travel EXP Wing, just labeled for DGX.

With a pair of these:

DGX Gears Trim Weight Pocket (each)

Or, I would wait and get a new Aqualung Outlaw, which is supposed to actually be available any day now. It is sort of an integrated BCD, but it does have interchangeable wings. They have announced a 12# and a 25# wing for it. You would be very safe with the 25#.

 

[Nation of Heat]

For warm water diving you won't need much ballast. Ballast is required to overcome the positive buoyancy of exposure suits and positively buoyant cylinders.

The typical tropical diver will be using 3mm suit (or less) and typically buoyant al 80 cylinders.

With a 3mm suit (usually 3-5 lbs positive) and an al 80 (typically +4 empty and -2 full) a neutral diver will need 7-8 lbs of ballast. (most of us are pretty close to neutral unless you significantly overweight, we are after all mostly salt water)

A typical stainless back plate and harness is about -6 lbs and the typical regulator is ~1.5 ~2 lbs negative. It's very common for divers in thin suit using buoyant tanks to use only their SS plate, harness and reg as ballast.

***BUT, BUT, BUT*** what about ditchable weight?????

How negative will this diver ever be worst case? ~ May be 5-6 lbs at the surface at the beginning of the dive and a max of 9-10 lbs at depth is they immediately swim down to ~100 + feet.

Should they carry extra ballast so they have something to ditch? Kinda silly.

Should they use a light weight plate so they can have 2-3 lbs of ditchable ballast? See above.

In cold water with exposure suits that may approach 30 lbs positive ditchable ballast may have a place, but in warm water a properly weighted diver has to realize that they only way they can get positive at the surface in the event of a buoyancy failure is to ditch the entire rig.

Tobin

Thanks a TON for all of this....super helpful.

 

[HantsDiver]

Should they carry extra ballast so they have something to ditch? Kinda silly.

Should they use a light weight plate so they can have 2-3 lbs of ditchable ballast? See above.

In cold water with exposure suits that may approach 30 lbs positive ditchable ballast may have a place, but in warm water a properly weighted diver has to realize that they only way they can get positive at the surface in the event of a buoyancy failure is to ditch the entire rig.

Tobin

Firstly ditchable weight isn't silly. It's not designed to get you to the surface but to keep you there. In some types of diving, the pro's are outweighed by the cons. Recreational diving should have ditchable weight if possible. If the OP is struggling on the surface they can ditch weight.

In cold water a drysuit should be the answer. Not having huge amount of ditchable weight. A decent drysuit will have nearly no swing in buoyancy at depth - and is a secondary buoyancy source in case of wing failure.

OP use the above config with a normal weight belt. Worn either over or under the harness depending on your training and what sort od diving you are doing.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

Have you thought about the XDeep Ghost? http://www.xdeep.eu/lightweight-traveler-scuba-bcd-ghost-bc-system-pr-51.html

I have one that I'm meaning to sell as I've switched to SM for travel. I loved the thing as I was stable in whatever position I put myself. If you want new, that's fine, but you may want to consider that option as well. I have found in a couple trips to the tropics that it travels well.

 

[dmaziuk]

but in warm water a properly weighted diver has to realize that they only way they can get positive at the surface in the event of a buoyancy failure is to ditch the entire rig.

That's not entirely true. Expect to not be "positively buoyant" without some sort of flotation device. You'll have to work to stay afloat. It's less work if you can ditch 8 pounds. It does not follow that those 8 pounds must be "your entire rig".