The system you have is excellent. I shoot with the predecessor to your camera, the Motormarine II (not II-EX) and a single YS-50 strobe. I have the 16MM wide, and 1:2 and 1:3 macro conversion lenses. I have exclusively shot ASA 100 print film. My strobe has plenty of power; I mostly shoot mine on manual, and actually had to diffuse it a bit to get the results I want. The YS-50 didn't have a diffuser, so I made one from a small Rubbermaid food-saving container, which fits perfectly over the YS-50. A couple of holes and rubber bands, and it stays right where I want it, plus doubles as a lens protector when I'm done! (By the way, almost every photograph I have ever had published was taken with my Rubbermaid diffuser in place.) Low-tech is wonderful sometimes...
Your YS-60 is at least as powerful, if not more, and has several power settings which mine lacks. I've found that the YS-50 covers my 16mm pretty well provided I shoot at appropriate distances and aim it properly. I always shoot with it handheld - it takes practice, but the end results are worth it. Your YS-60 should cover that 20mm with no trouble.
Here's two of my better 16mm shots:
Daylight, Stetson Bank, Kodacolor 100 print film, f/8, strobe set to manual (full power), Rubbermaid diffuser:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...f=lib_dp_TFCV/104-0673708-0954329#reader-link (The cover photo)
Night, Flower Garden Banks, Fujichrome Sensia 100, lens wide open, strobe set to manual (full power):
http://www.gbundersea.com/gallery1/2.htm
You have some very well-exposed photographs in your gallery. Those in which the strobe seems insufficient look to have simply been taken at too great a distance. 2 - 3' is perfect. Also, make sure you give your strobe time to recycle! I speak from experience - in the heat of shooting, I've often tripped the shutter only to waste a shot due to the strobe not being ready. Doh!
I really think you have everything necessary for great photos; all you need is a little practice, not a higher credit card bill! Undoubtedly a 2nd strobe will give you more coverage. However, fully utilize the tools you have before assessing if you need more. More is not always better.
Don't hastily start ditching, adding, or changing gear. Most of what makes a good (or bad) photograph is the person behind the camera, not the equipment used. Too many people get caught up in the gadgets, and forget about capturing the moment itself.
I would suggest reading, learning, and practicing. Joe Liburdi's "Complete Guide to Sea&Sea" covers the entire Sea&Sea product line in depth. I'm not sure how much is devoted to the Motormarine, but most Sea&Sea dealers should
have a copy, so you could check it out first. Also, general photography books are priceless, for above or below water photography. In addition, there is a vast amount of information available on the Internet. Just one example is
http://www.utahdiving.com/photos/pic-clas.htm. It's a complete mini photo lesson, and talks about the MX-10, Motormarine, and Nikonos V.
Here are some tips that were told to me, and I followed:
Read books, listen to the advice of those who know, and shoot a lot of film, while recording what you do. Shoot upward; don't
take pictures down at stuff on the sand like most people do. Also, take pictures vertically ("long-ways") - most people don't. Look at GOOD photographers' work, and see what they did and how they did it. Learn the principles of composition, and use them to frame a picture which will attract someone's eye. Look for the unusual, the colorful, the majestic, the beautiful. Shoot with the strobe held in your hand - you can use it to bracket and illuminate your subject from different angles, all while reducing or eliminating backscatter. Get CLOSE to your subject. Get CLOSE to your subject. Get CLOSE to your subject. Bracket, bracket,
bracket.
I hope this helps. Let everyone know when you have your next batch of photographs posted. I look forward to seeing them!
Greg Bunch
info@gbundersea.com
http://www.gbundersea.com
