Just returned from Cozumel...

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viejo

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Good news bad news, sort of.

The damage to the island from the hurricane wasn't too bad. We got there a week after the hurricane and just got back last night. For those who are wondering about the east side, the road is closed from about a couple miles south of Mescalitos (it and Sr. Iguana's seem to open and operating as usual) all the way to Punta Sur. The damage to the hotels range from none to severe. Most of the hotels are in the none category. The two southernmost hotels are closed until Dec. 1. Based on what I saw, I would find that difficult to believe. That being said, we did our surface intervals at the Reef Club and it looked hammered pretty hard. In the time we were there, the transformation was incredible and they plan to open Aug. 19. So they may be able to get those other two open by Dec. 1.

The information about Emily being a category 4 hurricane is accurate but misleading. The official reading for the wind speed was taken at the airport and it was measured at 142 mph. However, the reading taken near the lighthouse on the southern end measured 160 mph. And those are the sustained winds. Gusts were higher than that. There's not a leaf left on a tree on the southern end. And this leads me to a report about the visibility. All the leaves and debris from both Cozumel and the mainland ended up in the channel. It'll be a couple of months before the currents clean them out.

The visibility ranged from 50-60 to 100 depending on which reef you dove. For those of you with visibility issues, get over them. On Delilah, we saw so many turtles we couldn't count them, a 6 ft. green moray, an eagle ray, nurse shark, lobsters wandering out in the open in broad daylight, and three thresher sharks. I've dived Cozumel for 15 years, and have never seen a thresher shark there. On this one dive, I saw more marine life than I did from a liveaboard on the Great Barrier Reef in an entire week. So, like I said, get over the visibility issue.

As it relates to the coral, the damage to the coral ranged from significant to none. The determining factor was depth. For those reefs closest to the shore and not deeper than about 50 ft. the damage was significant. A fellow diver described it as if a giant had taken a walk through the finger coral. Some was demolished and others untouched. Other reefs like Maricaibo were seemingly untouched.

All in all, it was a great trip. The town was functionally unscathed and all my favorite restaurant haunts were operating as if nothing had happened. We had family join us in three different waves, and in our case and everyone elses, the planes were no more than 2/3 full. I know of several instances where people who had reserved diving trips cancelled them. Personally, I was pleased, the reefs were less crowded and as I said, the diving as good as always (better in many ways!).

For those of you who remember what diving in Cozumel was like 10-15 years ago, the next few weeks is going to be as close as you'll ever get to reliving those days. While there are still tons of divers out there, it's not back to full throttle yet so it's not as crowded.

Bottom line, go, dive, have fun. While it may not be as perfect as you might have had 12 months ago, or it will be in 12 months more, it's still going to be better than anything else you have planned.
 
Thanks so much for the description of what you experienced, Viejo.
From all I've been reading and hearing from others who've been back to our favorite island since Emily, Cozumel needs and appreciates our business- and folks are clearly open for business.
Can't wait to get back and do our part.
As soon as Albuquerque's Balloon Fiesta is over, we're on our way!
Coz diving is simply mind-blowing.
 
I just returned from five days in Cozumel and had the same experience in terms of visability as viejo. Columbia Deep experienced fairly significant reef damage. I heard Columbia Shallows is even worse, though I did not dive there. Punta Sur, on the other hand, was fine.

What did seem unusual to me was a relative lack of fish compared to pre-hurricane dives. We did see a bunch of sea turtles, several nurse sharks, and several seahorses, but in general the waters seemed to be fairly sparse in terms of marine life. Hopefully most of the fish are on their way back!
 
viejo:
Good news bad news, sort of.

The damage to the island from the hurricane wasn't too bad. We got there a week after the hurricane and just got back last night. For those who are wondering about the east side, the road is closed from about a couple miles south of Mescalitos (it and Sr. Iguana's seem to open and operating as usual) all the way to Punta Sur. The damage to the hotels range from none to severe. Most of the hotels are in the none category. The two southernmost hotels are closed until Dec. 1. Based on what I saw, I would find that difficult to believe. That being said, we did our surface intervals at the Reef Club and it looked hammered pretty hard. In the time we were there, the transformation was incredible and they plan to open Aug. 19. So they may be able to get those other two open by Dec. 1.

The information about Emily being a category 4 hurricane is accurate but misleading. The official reading for the wind speed was taken at the airport and it was measured at 142 mph. However, the reading taken near the lighthouse on the southern end measured 160 mph. And those are the sustained winds. Gusts were higher than that. There's not a leaf left on a tree on the southern end. And this leads me to a report about the visibility. All the leaves and debris from both Cozumel and the mainland ended up in the channel. It'll be a couple of months before the currents clean them out.

The visibility ranged from 50-60 to 100 depending on which reef you dove. For those of you with visibility issues, get over them. On Delilah, we saw so many turtles we couldn't count them, a 6 ft. green moray, an eagle ray, nurse shark, lobsters wandering out in the open in broad daylight, and three thresher sharks. I've dived Cozumel for 15 years, and have never seen a thresher shark there. On this one dive, I saw more marine life than I did from a liveaboard on the Great Barrier Reef in an entire week. So, like I said, get over the visibility issue.

As it relates to the coral, the damage to the coral ranged from significant to none. The determining factor was depth. For those reefs closest to the shore and not deeper than about 50 ft. the damage was significant. A fellow diver described it as if a giant had taken a walk through the finger coral. Some was demolished and others untouched. Other reefs like Maricaibo were seemingly untouched.

All in all, it was a great trip. The town was functionally unscathed and all my favorite restaurant haunts were operating as if nothing had happened. We had family join us in three different waves, and in our case and everyone elses, the planes were no more than 2/3 full. I know of several instances where people who had reserved diving trips cancelled them. Personally, I was pleased, the reefs were less crowded and as I said, the diving as good as always (better in many ways!).

For those of you who remember what diving in Cozumel was like 10-15 years ago, the next few weeks is going to be as close as you'll ever get to reliving those days. While there are still tons of divers out there, it's not back to full throttle yet so it's not as crowded.

Bottom line, go, dive, have fun. While it may not be as perfect as you might have had 12 months ago, or it will be in 12 months more, it's still going to be better than anything else you have planned.
Thanks for the update we are leaving in two days to Cozumel will be diving with Aldora and staying at the Villa Aldora. Will give a trip report when we get back. Cant wait to get back in the water. Kathy in Texas
 
I also went shortly after the hurricane, and while visibilty was not great, there was ALOT to see and I also saw more turtles than ever. One thing I saw was a large branch blown off a tree out, on the reef really far from shore....I picked it off the coral heads and put it in a sandy area; wonder how long it'll stay there?

Considering the severity of the storm, it's pretty amazing how little damage I saw.
 
Viejo...excellent assessment of the damage and diving...very honest and I'm glad to hear this perspective...NOW I have figured out who you are ;) For an Aggie, you done wrote that purty well...haha ;)

I'll send you some of those Maracaibo shallows photos i took, but they are NOT good...fair warning :)
 
Hi everyone! I'ld like to add my 2 cents' worth to the Emily vs Cozumel info. We had a group trip from our shop scheduled to be there on 7/16 and were advised within 24 hours of departure by Al Bay of Bay Adventures (www.bayadventures.com) to wait and postpone a couple days if we could. All but one of our 13 travelers was able to reschedule during the following week. Al has never steered us wrong - we have used him on 5 trips (4 to Cozumel) in less than 3 years and there has never been one glitch - so we changed flights and arrived on Tuesday 7/19. Power was being restored as we touched down, glass was being replaced at the hotel and dolphins were being moved out of the swimming pool. Apparently the Hotel Coz is the hurricane shelter for the dolphin experience residents as well as a shelter for the people! We checked in with Dive Paradise and were told that we would know by days end if we would start diving Wednesday.

We did go out the next morning and as Viejo described earlier, our first dive on Santa Rosa Wall was "interesting". Vis was about 50 feet, but the eerieness came with the mixing of the fresh and salt water in the top 20 feet or so. It gave everything a greenish tint with not much penetrating sunlight. There also had been a tremendous amount of sand moved by the storm and my thought was that this must be what it was like around a volcano after an eruption - everything coverd in a powder. There weren't many fish, only shades of grey and brown/green/grey, and a sort of stillness underwater that was actually "loud". Lots of finger corals and lettuce leaf corals had been flattened (the giant taking a walk) and sponges had been split or torn from their anchors.

As our dives progressed and the sites moved more to the north the reefs began to have less visible damage, with bits and pieces of the "normal" splendor appearing. We were kept off of some of the more shallow reefs, with Paradise being one we did get to do. By weeks end vis was 100' at most sites. Like Viejo said, some didn't appear to have been hit at all, others were silted over, there were some new sand runs, exposed corals and rocks where current had moved the sand, and more marine life. We saw turtles, nurse sharks, eels, seahorses (BIG SURPRISE!!), all manner of fish, and the nght dives we did near the shore were most productive!

We had the opportunity to dive several sites later in our trip that we had been to during the first days, and improvement was obvious in just that short time. The thought had occured to me earlier in the week, "At least man didn't do this. Mother Nature has been doing this for hundreds of thousands of years. There is a reason for it. She will fix it and we get the priviledge of watching it happen."

Any description of the topside damage would be repetitive, but I do feel that the Cozumel residents deserve a HUGE dose of recognition!! Work needed to be done. AND THEY GOT IT DONE - no griping, complaining, or ducking the load. By the time our entire group got there (3 - 6 days after Emily) life at the Hotel Coz was normal. I cannot say enough about the people of the island! What lessons we can learn from them!

There was some significant damage to a few hotels and properties on the southern end, and this has been discussed. I agree with Viejo once again - the crowds are smaller, therefore the diving is better. But it won't take long - the first day we saw cruise ships coming back in there were 8 lined up from the piers to the northern horizon, waiting to get a berth!

Folks, Cozumel is still there and it is still an amazing place to visit and dive! When we were watching our group go out the day my wife and I were to fly home, we said fairwell to one of our favorite Divemasters, and his reply was, "It was good to see you again, my friends! Have a great trip home, I'll see you next time, and tell everyone Cozumel is OK and open for business! Come diving!"

We are looking at potential dates for our next annual trip, and virtually everyone who went has already said they are in for the next one! Cozumel is ok and open for business! Let's go diving!

Thanks!
Chuck
 
Christi:
Viejo...excellent assessment of the damage and diving...very honest and I'm glad to hear this perspective...NOW I have figured out who you are ;) For an Aggie, you done wrote that purty well...haha ;)

I'll send you some of those Maracaibo shallows photos i took, but they are NOT good...fair warning :)


Good pics, despite your disclaimer.

And it's "done writ", not "done wrote". Typical t-sip, can't write plain english.

Thanks again for the great advice and great diving.
 
viejo:
Good pics, despite your disclaimer.

And it's "done writ", not "done wrote". Typical t-sip, can't write plain english.

Thanks again for the great advice and great diving.

Howdy Viejo, My DH and I are gigging our gear together and heading on down to Cozumel to dive with Christi in 33 days. Diving there gives Fish Camp a whole new meaning, don't you think? We will wake up at dawn to Reveille from the ocean waves at the Caribe Blue. Although a Long-horn blast would be just as good. Regardless, when we see Shamu pull up to the pier we just want to yell with delight!. Gig EM ! :smile: Thanks again Viejo, your review info was excellent. And Christi, as always, just for you, Hook em Horns ! Sue
 
Sue Sue:
Howdy Viejo, My DH and I are gigging our gear together and heading on down to Cozumel to dive with Christi in 33 days. Diving there gives Fish Camp a whole new meaning, don't you think? We will wake up at dawn to Reveille from the ocean waves at the Caribe Blue. Although a Long-horn blast would be just as good. Regardless, when we see Shamu pull up to the pier we just want to yell with delight!. Gig EM ! :smile: Thanks again Viejo, your review info was excellent. And Christi, as always, just for you, Hook em Horns ! Sue


Have a great trip, although you're going in the middle of football season so your visibility will only be "Two-percent" better than mine! ;)

FYI, my wife is a t-sip. We have a perfect marriage 364 days a year. Unless we win. Then it's perfect 365.
 

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