ozziworld
Contributor
I finally brought home my FIX S90 housing and started getting familiar with various aspects of the housing and camera as a unit.
A few things I noted after spending more time with the unit.
I noted that the rails on the screen window are a little occluded by the rails that I assume are for a shroud of some sort. Can this be removed without compromising water tightness? It certainly looks like it since it is simply screwed down to the acrylic panel. I wanted to put a screen protector (the simple sheet ones that go typical LCD screens on various gadgets) on as well.
Another, thing I noticed is the finger groove in front and the thumb recess just do not suit my hands. Does anyone have the same issue? I have average size hands and think gloved or bigger hands would find the position of fingers and thumb somewhat uncomfortable.
I am also experiencing some slipping on the rear wheel (I did the ''friction fix" of adding a shim behind the wheel cover since the wheel was so loose on the S90 - I had to remove the shim to restore S90's original looseness) Rear wheel works fine now. The Mode Wheel control was also slipping till I learned to press down slightly why turning. Seems this is the way it was intended so not a big issue at all.
Love the size and weight. tight precision fit.
Buttons seem stiffer than I like but I guess it is necessary for the 200 ft. rating.
I wish the thread cove on the port was threaded on. It comes off too easily I think. Will probably use an inner tube or some other material to protect the threaded port.
The main o-ring feels very thin since I am more familiar with the fatter o-rings of other brand housings. To remove/replace them when cleaning and greasing might wear them out faster? or is this just me worrying about a non-issue?
The tight fit makes the S90 harder to remove. Takes quite a bit of shaking and bumping to get the little S90 out of the snug fitting housing. Was thinking of including a little suction cup in my kit to help lift out the unit from the housing.
I have not decided on an adapter yet (67,, or AD mount) will go back to the store again to check for vignetting with Inon UFL165AD. It seem minimal yesterday when I was at the shop trying out the combination.
I find the shutter operation a little too sensitive since I guess the lever adds some mechanical advantage. I think that is easy enough to get used to. I find at this stage I have a little better trigger control if I place my index finger right at the joint between the camera and lever. I then "roll" my finger and fire the trigger as I apply more pressure. Works pretty well so far and might end up shooting that way.
I wish they had cut or engraved the symbols for the control labels instead of just a sticker on the top pf the housing.
Have mixed feelings about the very visible "tool marks" all over the camera. I like that it reminds me or emphasizes that it is a "machined" precision tool. but I think they can also be kinda ugly and looks unfinished.
The FIX AD Adapter costs almost as much as my Canon DC35 housing. I feel that does not make sense to me.
Hopefully, I can make-up my mind soon and decide which method I want to take to get the Inon UFL165Ad on the housing and get some pics to post.
A few things I noted after spending more time with the unit.
I noted that the rails on the screen window are a little occluded by the rails that I assume are for a shroud of some sort. Can this be removed without compromising water tightness? It certainly looks like it since it is simply screwed down to the acrylic panel. I wanted to put a screen protector (the simple sheet ones that go typical LCD screens on various gadgets) on as well.
Another, thing I noticed is the finger groove in front and the thumb recess just do not suit my hands. Does anyone have the same issue? I have average size hands and think gloved or bigger hands would find the position of fingers and thumb somewhat uncomfortable.
I am also experiencing some slipping on the rear wheel (I did the ''friction fix" of adding a shim behind the wheel cover since the wheel was so loose on the S90 - I had to remove the shim to restore S90's original looseness) Rear wheel works fine now. The Mode Wheel control was also slipping till I learned to press down slightly why turning. Seems this is the way it was intended so not a big issue at all.
Love the size and weight. tight precision fit.
Buttons seem stiffer than I like but I guess it is necessary for the 200 ft. rating.
I wish the thread cove on the port was threaded on. It comes off too easily I think. Will probably use an inner tube or some other material to protect the threaded port.
The main o-ring feels very thin since I am more familiar with the fatter o-rings of other brand housings. To remove/replace them when cleaning and greasing might wear them out faster? or is this just me worrying about a non-issue?
The tight fit makes the S90 harder to remove. Takes quite a bit of shaking and bumping to get the little S90 out of the snug fitting housing. Was thinking of including a little suction cup in my kit to help lift out the unit from the housing.
I have not decided on an adapter yet (67,, or AD mount) will go back to the store again to check for vignetting with Inon UFL165AD. It seem minimal yesterday when I was at the shop trying out the combination.
I find the shutter operation a little too sensitive since I guess the lever adds some mechanical advantage. I think that is easy enough to get used to. I find at this stage I have a little better trigger control if I place my index finger right at the joint between the camera and lever. I then "roll" my finger and fire the trigger as I apply more pressure. Works pretty well so far and might end up shooting that way.
I wish they had cut or engraved the symbols for the control labels instead of just a sticker on the top pf the housing.
Have mixed feelings about the very visible "tool marks" all over the camera. I like that it reminds me or emphasizes that it is a "machined" precision tool. but I think they can also be kinda ugly and looks unfinished.
The FIX AD Adapter costs almost as much as my Canon DC35 housing. I feel that does not make sense to me.
Hopefully, I can make-up my mind soon and decide which method I want to take to get the Inon UFL165Ad on the housing and get some pics to post.