Just a FYI: Tetra 3030 convert to 7070

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fpoole

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Location
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I'm thinking of upgrading my Tetra 3030/4040 to a Tetra 7070 and asked Backscatter what would and wouldn't work, and possibly going to the Inon Strobes.

Apparently everything will transfer up, SB105 Strobes - Macro/WA Lens and it'll work the the ROC TTL system. So the good news is that it can be done with minimal damage.
The bad news is that it can be done with a lot of damage.. heheh.. (Joking here)
just come up with the $1800 for the housing and the $600 for the camera...

Anyway, Backscatter wrote:
http://www.backscatter.com/

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Hi There,

The SB-105s will work with the TTL and roc system on the 7070 Tetra Housing. The lenses will work as well. As far as Inon I wouldn't recommend them with the Tetra. The only Inon strobe that works with the Nik V bulkheads on the Tetra is the Z-220 and it is primarily designed for film cameras. You can see what they say about it at this link.
http://inonamerica.com/products.php...=1&PHPSESSID=a8de601b0dd0eebab0e18d3201cbb7e1

I would recommend the Sea and Sea YS-90 Duo if you're thinking about a new strobe system. It's great for both film and digital cameras, syncs with a fiber optic cable or Nik V sync cord, and will work through the Tetra's Roc System. You can see it at this link.
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/products/SS-16900.html

Regards,
Sy
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Hope that helps, just thought I post it for future reference.
 
I really like Light & Motion's housings. The Tetra is a beauty, but IMHO, overpriced. If you are looking at new strobes, I would also look at an Ike DS-125. If you use an Ikelite housing:

This is not a "watching" the camera strobe system. This is real Olympus TTL control with a sync cord, allowing optional Ikelite DS-50 and DS-125 SubStrobes to provide actual Olympus TTL automatic exposure dictated by the camera when attached with a single #4103.51 or #4103.52 dual sync cord.

If I have this correct, Roc=watching, Ikelite=TTL. Light & Motion's housing is sexier, but Ikelite may have practical advantages.
 
DesertEagle:
If I have this correct, Roc=watching, Ikelite=TTL. Light & Motion's housing is sexier, but Ikelite may have practical advantages.

Hmmm.... not so sure on the TTL... had this discussion a while ago and if memory serves me right (may not) but it was about as close as you can get in that it does go thru the lens or an internal sensor of sorts... forgot exactly how it worked, but it was going though the lens and not just reading the outside stuff...

Could be wrong, but ?? seems to me it was close...

Ike or Tet.. heheh... yeah, I know, have to toss that on around... I do like the Inon strobes though, smaller and whatever else they do... but for the cost of the tetra, I could get the Ike and 2 Inon stobes....heheh geesh, they never make it easy eh???

thanx...
 
fpoole:
Hmmm.... not so sure on the TTL... had this discussion a while ago and if memory serves me right (may not) but it was about as close as you can get in that it does go thru the lens or an internal sensor of sorts... forgot exactly how it worked, but it was going though the lens and not just reading the outside stuff...

Could be wrong, but ?? seems to me it was close...

Ike or Tet.. heheh... yeah, I know, have to toss that on around... I do like the Inon strobes though, smaller and whatever else they do... but for the cost of the tetra, I could get the Ike and 2 Inon stobes....heheh geesh, they never make it easy eh???

thanx...

I have several customers who use Inon Z-220s strobes with Tetra 5060 and 5050 housings in both TTL and manual mode with no issue. I used them personally with my Titans as well.

While you can physically attach the lenses you have, the WA will offer little to no benefit. The Inon lens sold by Light & Motion, and LMI's first "drymate" wa lens were both designed for lenses with a wa focal length of 35mm. Since your camera is a 28mm wa, you'll have to zoom in toward 35mm to eliminate vignetting. As you zoom in, the lens retracts into the camera body, meaning you'll have to zoom in even further to eliminate vignetting. So, in short, the lens is usable, but won't offer the benefit you are used to.

DesertEagle's observation is correct, but in practice, the difference is little more than semantics. They both work. Ikelite's TTL system allows you to use ttl flash from slightly farther away, but Light & Motion's ROC system makes using manual strobe control in those situations very intuitive.
 
Ryan:
While you can physically attach the lenses you have, the WA will offer little to no benefit. The Inon lens sold by Light & Motion, and LMI's first "drymate" wa lens were both designed for lenses with a wa focal length of 35mm. Since your camera is a 28mm wa, you'll have to zoom in toward 35mm to eliminate vignetting. As you zoom in, the lens retracts into the camera body, meaning you'll have to zoom in even further to eliminate vignetting. So, in short, the lens is usable, but won't offer the benefit you are used to.

DesertEagle's observation is correct, but in practice, the difference is little more than semantics. They both work. Ikelite's TTL system allows you to use ttl flash from slightly farther away, but Light & Motion's ROC system makes using manual strobe control in those situations very intuitive.

Heheh.. Aw Geesh... just when I thought I was home free, vignetting pops it's ugly head... great info, will have to work this all out now.. the L&M WA that came with the "3030 Travel Package" isn't, what I would consider a big difference.. some, but not much. I use it 99% of the time and the photos look the same as in real life... so it's not like I'm using a 16mm or whatever they are... heheh.. haven't gotten that far up the ladder yet.. sigh, but will soon I expect...

Thanx much for the clarification DE and Ryan..
Appreciate it, helps preventing re-inventing the wheel, which is what this is all about...

Dive safe...
 

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