Jetstream/Odin diaphram replacement

[buff]

I took apart my Poseidon Jetstream to clean a lot of sand that had gotten under the diaphram in the second stage.
There is a little hole in the diaphram that I assume is where the tip of the pilot valve seats. Do I arrange the diaphram to have the hole sit over the pilot valve tip or away from the pilot valve tip?

Thanks
Mike

 

[Green_Manelishi]

Hi Mike,

Sorry, no can help but ...

With all due respect, I'd beware taking anything apart for
any reason unless you know how to re-assemble.

G_M

 

[buff]

I would agree it makes sense to know how to reassemble before disassembly but my year of physics has given me this feeling of overconfidence. That, coupled with my curiosity, got the better of me.

However, I didn't worry too much since Michael Rainone(rainreg on the board) is always an email away. He answered my questions and threw in a little more of his knowledge to boot at no additional cost-it was all free.

I have been told that tuning a Jetstream can be difficult but after taking it apart I don't see how. If this is a tricky reg. to adjust then the other models must be a breeze.

I'm sending off both my regs. to Mr. Rainone to have them checked out before my wife and I travel to Cozumel.

 

[Lost Yooper]

Adjusting the second stages are extremely easy and can be done in the field in just a couple minutes -- max. I got rid of mine before I had to dip into the first stage.

Mike

 

[buff]

The pilot knob on the Odin seems to be very sensitive. It took me a couple of attempts to get the diaphram to sit down "just so" and make the reg work correctly. I am happy that I know how to do it, so that if I'm in a far away land I won't go into a hysterical fit when some sand becomes lodged behind the second stage diaphram.
I know that the Odin isn't DIR approved but after disconnecting the second stage, by simply unscrewing it, it made me think of this:
Your are diving in a silty, dirty environment. Your Odin second stage becomes clogged with grit. Instead of taking it apart like a Scubapro(which you can't since there are 4 screws to open the second up-unless you have a screwdriver) just take out a replacement second stage and screw it on!! It's even easier than dismanteling a reg. and trying to hold the silicone diaphram in your hands-potentialy tearing it or bending it or puncturing it-and then trying to lay it down flat when you have thick, heavy gloves or worse yet-mitts on!

Do you think this would work?

Wheels always turning-often not engaging -but always turning!

 

[Bob3]

just take out a replacement second stage and screw it on!!

Common sense would indeed dictate that as the most appropriate technique.
Cavers avoid dirty, zero viz conditions though, and the water down there isn't that cold, rarely below the 50's.
It's one instance where the cave (aka "DIR") technique/configuration isn't necessairily the "right" one for all conditions.

(Mr Thumbs here has a hard time messing with the tiny parts the way it is, cranking on a new second is something that I can handle)

 

[buff]

Thanks for that vote of confidence Bob3 on the screw on second stage idea-and mucho thanks for the AdKill program!

Mike

 

[Lost Yooper]

Hey Buff,

There's a lot of bad things that can be said about the Odin, but one thing is for sure, they don't freeze. I have heard high ranking DIR proponents say they would use the Odin for ice diving, but they have to be in a really good mood. No one can effectively argue against their ice diving ability, but Apeks is coming up strong when used correctly. Balancing the pro's and con's of the two, I was left with an Apeks preference. I still respect the Odins ice diving reliability.

Being able to disassemble the second stage in the water is apart of DIR. I don't know about the current SP's, but the Apeks's face plate can be unscrewed underwater and the guts cleaned. Also, it is often recommended to keep the second stage hand tight to the hose so you can do exactly what you said -- take it off and replace it underwater.
We don't carry an extra second just for this event, but theoretically, you could take your back up off and put it on your long hose (swap seconds) or stage or deco bottle. This might be needed if you some how lost a mouth piece or something malfunctioned. I've never had to take a reg aprt underwater, but having the option is nice, I guess.

My configuration and regs (when I've done my part) have worked flawlessly in all the circumstances I've been through (from pool classes to county SAR) and though it's a continuous work in progress as the result of making countless mistakes, it's getting better and better.

Later.

Mike

 

[buff]

I know why I had to clean the second stage in the first place. Attaching the octopus at the lower right corner of my BC places it in harms way. Hanging low on the BC makes it suseptible to contact with sand, dirt and damage.
I was skeptical about placing the octo. on a bungie around my neck-seemed to cluttered, especially when I have all my camera gear with me. But, I'm going to give it a try. Hopefully, it will prolong the life of my octo. and avoid a reg. failure that could end in a death.

Mike

 

[Norm]

Provided you are qualified to do such repairs, (and assuming we're talking about the same hole): Looking into the second stage opening where the diaphragm sits, orient the axis/centerline of the housing so that the hose enters the housing at 3 o'clock position, (your right). The hole should be positioned at 9 o'clock position, (your left, opposite/away from the hose). Be sure the teflon pad, ("wear/diaphragm washer") is on the side that touches the tip of the pilot valve. Hope this helps.
Norm