It's not IF your camera floods..

[Scuba_Jenny]

Thanks all. I've since dived with the camera sans camera and it didn't leak. I think the problem is user error. Ouch. Oring needed lube. I have dived the case with a camera now too, and no issues. Replacement cameras are running $50-100 on ebay. I got a replacement oring from amazon, should be here any day now.

 

[emoreira]

Two good sites to look, by those with Canon OEM housings :
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/the-canon-corner/315202-canon-housing-leaks-easy-diy-fix.html
Canon Underwater Camera Housing Leak Fix - Reef Wreck & Critter

Underwater Camera Maintenance

Besides this one :
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/the-canon-corner/364297-buttons-sticking-help.html
Matt Gieselman | Fixing sticky buttons on underwater camera housings
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/the-canon-corner/317514-canon-housing-button-sticks.html

---------- Post added May 13th, 2015 at 12:22 PM ----------

Flooding may be inevitable in those little bubble housings due to their light duty construction but it is not with a well designed aluminum or polycarbonate housing.

N

This article could show you that a Canon OEM housing is a little more than a plastic bubble :
http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/03/lost-underwater-camera-reunited-with-its-owner-after-six-years/

 

[Nemrod]

I belive Ike uses neoprene o rings for which silicone grease is proper. Thr OEM bubbles cases use I believe mostly silicone base o rings and you should not apply silicone grease to them. Use the supplied grease ir check with nanufactuer for recomendations.

N

 

[Scuba_Jenny]

My housing is an Ikelite.. and I have ikelite lube..

 

[Nemrod]

My housing is an Ikelite.. and I have ikelite lube..

Okay, first you said "condensation," then about a "1/4 cup of water" and you also identified there might have been a piece of tissue/lint or some other object on the O-ring. You mention the housing closed "hard" and I suspect this might be the issue. I have owned three (3) Ikelite housings (two SLR and one box for an A570). They use a fairly large cross section O-ring. If the O-ring is not lubricated correctly or the housing is closed while wet the O-ring may twist and this can feel like a "hard" close because the O-ring rolls and does not seat evenly instead of slipping and compressing evenly. Usually on an Ikelite case you can view the O-ring and notice if it is twisted or not seated evenly. You should be able to see the compression line evenly, that is usually an indication of a good seal.

Hope you have better luck next time. Get a new O-ring too.

N

 

[dhaas]

Ikelite housings should only use Ikelite specified o-ring grease. Also, the Ultracompact "clamshell" style housing NEEDS to have the o-ring always be "shiny" not "gloppy" when lubed.

This is because as the door closes the o-ring needs to not twist as Nemrod mentioned. I have seen people lube their back o-ring ONCE at the beginning of a multi-dive / day trip and wonder why it's closing so hard (it has no o-ring grease left on it after 2-3 dives!)

I advise closing it by squeezing the back and body together and then latching it shut. If you can't squeeze it closed with just your hands the o-ring is dry and should be taken off, cleaned and lubed. Also clean the lip the o-ring seals on of the main housing body. those foam makeup applicators do a good job without leaving any lint or fibers but so can the edge of your t-shirt

Finally, as Nemrod say ANY small amount of hair, lint, sand or whatever that crosses the seal will cause a minor leak or flood. But with a clear body / back it's pretty hard to miss that IMHO.

YMMV,
David Haas
www.haasimages.com