Iso Valves turn With Effort

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ajduplessis

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I'm a Fish!
I have DIR Zone isolation manifolds on my 15L doubles. I cleaned (O2) both the valves and cylinders and used Christo’s lube on all o-rings and threads. Once assembled the valves turned very easy and life was beautiful.

However after filling the cylinders the valves on both posts and isolator now turn with effort. What can I try/do to improve the turnability of the valves?? I replaced all o-ring with viton units.
 
the valve will always be harder to turn when they're under pressure, especially when full, it's just the way physics work. Deal with it, how often are you having to turn the crossbar anyway?
 
I do understand that they turn harder when under pressure, however some of the other doubles I have tested turn a lot better with the same brand valves. Mine also turned better a year or 2 ago, or I am getting old.

I do valve drills with others skills on at least 60% of my double dives.
 
Are you saying that the valves turn harder since you rebuilt them, or did they always do it, or do you not know because you never used the manifold before rebuilding it? If it worked fine before, you did something...who knows what. Here's a wild guess that is probably useless, but if there was silicone and now there's PTFE grease, (Christolube) it's possible that the PTFE grease is light enough so that it doesn't hold up under the big pressure differential. I would NOT bet on that as an answer, though. You can try making sure you have the thickest of the PTFE greases and using a bit more on the threads of the seat carrier. If it always did it or you don't know, you're probably just finding out the machining limits of your manifold. I suspect that manifolds with very well machined threads and better tolerances do work more smoothly, but I don't know what brands those are or even if there's a big difference.

I had a problem with my iso valve being difficult to turn, not after rebuilding the valve, just after removing and re-installing the manifold for the tank inspection. The iso bar turned freely in the threads, it wasn't binding, yet somehow the valve itself was much harder to turn, tank empty or full. I never figured it out, I just assembled the doubles again, and it mostly went away. This is with a blue steel manifold, not one of the best. I've never had any problems with the post valves themselves.

Look on the bright side; sticky valves will have a harder time getting rolled shut in a restriction, and believe me if you ever have a big leak while cave or technical diving you'll have enough adrenaline to turn anything.
 
They are turning harder after the rebuild.
 
Like you said, heaps of info. I will work through them. Thanks
 
OK, I followed some of the ideas/methods provided in the deco stop thread. My valves are turning smoothly and effortlessly.
 

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