How much light do you need to light 1:1 macro?

[Ardy]

Hi guys, just got back from bali and 2 of the good macro divers have BS MF-2 = snoot strobes for macro combined with a pair of flashes. There seems to be very little light needed to light macro with the flash less than a few inches away.

Got me wondering if a powerful torch with a snoot might not do the job?

 

[rmorgan]

For stationary subjects, sure, although you’ll have to boost ISO and/or drop the shutter speed. A strobe puts out a lot more light than even a powerful constant light. A single strobe for macro is very useful, though, and there are some good small ones, including the Backscatter, for which a companion snoot is available.

 

[davehicks]

For stationary subjects, sure, although you’ll have to boost ISO and drop the shutter speed. A strobe puts out a lot more light than even a powerful constant light. A single strobe for macro is very useful, though, and there are some good small ones, including the Backscatter, for which a companion snoot is available.

That's not really accurate. There is generally no need to use a slow shutter or ISO higher than base for most macro shots. The Backscatter MF-1 or MF-2 can put out plenty of light for an f16-22 / 1/250s shot with no problems.

The reality is that most macro shooters use TOO MUCH light and obliterate all of the shadows and dimensionality in their images. Using indirect strobe light (not pointed exactly at the subject) or a snoot in combo with a strobe is going to produce a better image with shadows and texture.

The macro image below was shot with a Nikon D850, 105mm lens, Single Inon 330 strobe, f16, 1/250s, iso200. The fish is a Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker about 4 cm long.

 

[BoltSnap]

That's not really accurate. There is generally no need to use a slow shutter or ISO higher than base for most macro shots. The Backscatter MF-1 or MF-2 can put out plenty of light for an f16-22 / 1/250s shot with no problems.

The reality is that most macro shooters use TOO MUCH light and obliterate all of the shadows and dimensionality in their images. Using indirect strobe light (not pointed exactly at the subject) or a snoot in combo with a strobe is going to produce a better image with shadows and texture.

The macro image below was shot with a Nikon D850, 105mm lens, Single Inon 330 strobe, f16, 1/250s, iso200. The fish is a Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker about 4 cm long.

View attachment 778737

OP is asking about the use of a "Torch" or "constant light" (Video light) not a "strobe/flash."

 

[Barmaglot]

You can use a constant light for macro, but most things that have eyes and mobility are going to do their level best to scurry away from the mini-sun that is blinding them. The momentary flash produced by a strobe generally doesn't produce this reaction.

 

[davehicks]

OP is asking about the use of a "Torch" or "constant light" (Video light) not a "strobe/flash."

Okay, yeah. Not a great way to shoot macro, but i do know people who do it with sufficiently bright video lights.

Agree that it might scare off some subjects.

 

[rmorgan]

Cool image, Dave. Puget Sound?

 

[Ardy]

HI Guys, I know this is an old thread but just watched a video on focus lights and macro and thought it might interest a couple of you.

 

[bvanant]

You will need to do a lot of white balancing after shooting that way.
Bill