How important to change Prism2 solenoid at 5 year mark

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Narcosis Mike

Registered
Messages
20
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7
Location
Jupiter, FL USA
# of dives
200 - 499
Hey guys, I went ahead and took the plunge on that used Prism 2 for my first CCR. It's about 4 years old and reading through the Hollis owners manual materials it looks like at the 5 year mark the O2 solenoid is supposed to be replaced.

My understanding is that when the solenoid is replaced there is a risk of the solenoid compartment having water intrusion after the operation unless the unit is sent to the hollis factory for the job and subsequent pressure testing. The local dealer cannot perform a pressure test. Some have advised that they would forgo the 5 year solenoid replacement and run with it until the solenoid fails..

So my question: 1) how much money am i looking at to do the factory solenoid job
2) if the dealer does it locally and I forgo the pressure test what sort of risk for flooding am I looking at
3) Is the general consensus that skipping the solenoid replacement alltogether and only addressing it if/when it fails something that is common for the Prism or other CCR's in general?
 
Hollis uses a unique non-user servicable solenoid.

Pretty much everyone else (revo, Meg, JJ, SF2, not sure about optima or AP) uses a Jaska solenoid which is 1) user servicable, 2) doesnt require pressure pot testing afterwards either. They are commonly serviced and returned to "like new" condition every 2-5 years. Either at a service station or by the user. Replacing them is rare but not completely unheard of.

If your solenoid has never been serviced or replaced in 4 years I would have it done before you start diving it. You dont know the past treatment of that used unit.

Diving until it fails is not how someone survives as a CCR diver long term
 
"it depends"

do you dive salt all the time?
do you rinse your gear properly?
do you ride the solenoid or dive manually most of the time?

Only you can answer all of those questions. Me personally? Service on a semi-regular interval, basically when you service your regs. They're easy to take apart and rebuild. Take it apart and clean every year or every other if in fresh, every 4-5 if you don't ride the solenoid. Two failure modes on these, one is the valve itself gets stuck open or closed *usually due to debris/salt*, the other is due to the actual electromagnet failing. No need to pressure test it at the factory IMO since you can bubble check it just fine on your own and that should show in both your negative and positive checks. When the O2 valve is closed, the pressure will drop which shows a leak between the O2 reg and the solenoid, and when the O2 valve is open during negative check it will show as a failed negative.
 
"it depends"

do you dive salt all the time?
do you rinse your gear properly?
do you ride the solenoid or dive manually most of the time?

Only you can answer all of those questions. Me personally? Service on a semi-regular interval, basically when you service your regs. They're easy to take apart and rebuild. Take it apart and clean every year or every other if in fresh, every 4-5 if you don't ride the solenoid. Two failure modes on these, one is the valve itself gets stuck open or closed *usually due to debris/salt*, the other is due to the actual electromagnet failing. No need to pressure test it at the factory IMO since you can bubble check it just fine on your own and that should show in both your negative and positive checks. When the O2 valve is closed, the pressure will drop which shows a leak between the O2 reg and the solenoid, and when the O2 valve is open during negative check it will show as a failed negative.
The hollis solenoid is "outside" of the head in its own compartment, with its own o-rings. You won't detect a leak here on positive or negative check unless its massive. By the time you find out on a bubble check your solenoid is ruined.
 
The hollis solenoid is "outside" of the head in its own compartment, with its own o-rings. You won't detect a leak here on positive or negative check unless its massive. By the time you find out on a bubble check your solenoid is ruined.

sorry, I was talking about the solenoid itself leaking O2 in, not the compartment itself
 
Hey guys, I went ahead and took the plunge on that used Prism 2 for my first CCR. It's about 4 years old and reading through the Hollis owners manual materials it looks like at the 5 year mark the O2 solenoid is supposed to be replaced.

My understanding is that when the solenoid is replaced there is a risk of the solenoid compartment having water intrusion after the operation unless the unit is sent to the hollis factory for the job and subsequent pressure testing. The local dealer cannot perform a pressure test. Some have advised that they would forgo the 5 year solenoid replacement and run with it until the solenoid fails..

So my question: 1) how much money am i looking at to do the factory solenoid job
2) if the dealer does it locally and I forgo the pressure test what sort of risk for flooding am I looking at
3) Is the general consensus that skipping the solenoid replacement alltogether and only addressing it if/when it fails something that is common for the Prism or other CCR's in general?

Hello Mike,

First and foremost, I'm not a rebreather diver.

Second, if you take the term ''rebreather'' out of the equation, and substitute any other word:

Why would you ''not'' want to follow the ''manufacturer's written recommendations''.

You just may get a response here where the owner's device is 10 years old (if that is possible), and has never had the solenoid changed, and that owner has never had a problem.

I would not be using that response as a ''bench-mark''.

I also think, that as far as ''rebreathers'' are concerned, if you're questioning ''cost'' and ''inconvenience'', you've chosen the wrong piece of dive equipment.

Sorry, no offence intended here, but I know what I'd be doing.

I am a funeral director, and I know for sure, I've had customers who made life ending mistakes.

Safe diving,

Rose.
 
@Narcosis Mike, being a used unit I would definately get the rebreather "overhauled" with new O-rings, cells, batteries, etc. I'd also replace or rebuild anything near its service limit, like your solenoid. So Essentially you are starting off with a refreshed and like new unit. The risk vs reward balance on rebreathers generally doesn't favor putting off maintenance.
 
......

I also think, that as far as ''rebreathers'' are concerned, if you're questioning ''cost'' and ''inconvenience'', you've chosen the wrong piece of dive equipment.

....

That is my outlook on it. My buddy generally dives his rebreather. Watching him go through his pre-dive routine every outing is enough to tell me that a rebreather...while very cool...is not for me.

The dilemma of whether or not to properly service a rebreather...the image below comes to mind...

ADD1CD8A-489D-4B71-A845-D8214BA59CA4.jpeg
 
That is my outlook on it. My buddy generally dives his rebreather. Watching him go through his pre-dive routine every outing is enough to tell me that a rebreather...while very cool...is not for me.

The dilemma of whether or not to properly service a rebreather...the image below comes to mind...

View attachment 610676

Hi Barnaby's Dad,

Is it forgo the sex and eat fried chicken, or is it forgo the fried chicken and have sex.

I suppose storing your condoms with your fried chicken is alright as long as you remember which one is edible, and which one isn't.

Or just maybe, he/or she was one of those, ''having your cake and eating it too"

LOL,

Rose
 
Fwiw the service manual says to check the filter going into the solenoid and if has crap on it tear it down and in your case i would replace it. If that filter is fine and the unit works fine i wouldn't worry about it. If you have the technical skills i would recommend doing the tear down for annual with your dealer. I ended up doing my own service and found a few issues that were missed by the last "service tech". Also i would look at the hours on the unit. If it is 5 years old with 500 hours on it i would be more inclined to replace parts than i would on my unit which was 4 years old with 40 hours. At the end of the day though these things are dangerous so do it right. If you do have to send it in I was quoted around 400 to replace the cable in the head and re pressure test the unit so the pressure test at the factory runs around 200. I would recommend that because if it floods and you didn't have hollis do it you are out 4k for a new head.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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