Horizontal D-rings modification

[Remy B.]

I bought this from DGX to replace two of my vertical D-rings so I can stream line a little better my tanks and have the other two D rings left that the most to the back to clip accessories or others.

Extra Large S/S Rigid D-Ring

These rings are actually bolted rings, I want to use Lok-tite on the screw threads, and tag weld them, have you done this ? was it just enought with the Lok-tite, if you did tag weld them what grade of SS welding rod did you use ?

I asked DGX for the information of the SS grade, but have not hear nothing back.

Thanks.

 

[divezonescuba]

Interesting idea. Sounds like you are making a butt plate on your backplate?

I am going to try to use the concept to put a dring on a section of webbing that is sewn on both ends.

 

[Remy B.]

I dive sidemount, these D-rings will be on my hips a little to the front, the idea is accessibility to unclip my Deco Tanks in a more easy way, and at the same time keep me streamlined with 3-4 tanks and 6 tanks if I even get to carry 6 tanks.

I use travel tank straps for sidemount, they are not so good to keep the tanks streamlines as Fixed sidemount tank straps.

 

[stuartv]

I use those as my chest rings on my shoulder straps. I just use Loc-tite on the screws and they have been solid for over a year.

 

[cool_hardware52]

I bought this from DGX to replace two of my vertical D-rings so I can stream line a little better my tanks and have the other two D rings left that the most to the back to clip accessories or others.

Extra Large S/S Rigid D-Ring

These rings are actually bolted rings, I want to use Lok-tite on the screw threads, and tag weld them, have you done this ? was it just enought with the Lok-tite, if you did tag weld them what grade of SS welding rod did you use ?

It's unlikely that the parts are 316, most likely the plate is 304 and the wire is probably 303/304.

It won't matter all that much, but the default would be 308 / 308L The act of welding with any filler will create a heat effected zone that will corrode more easily than the surrounding metal, unless it is well cleaned and passivated. Better would be electo polishing, but that's hard to find and typically quite expensive.

This one reason why I always try to avoid any welding on Stainless goods to be used in the Ocean. It can be done, we do so on our Stainless Finger Spools, but post weld treatment matters and adds cost and complexity.

I'd take a hard look at whether or not you really need fixed drings. Lots of guys are doing big dives with simple drings. If you do decide your needs require them I'd consider the anaerobic thread lockers.

Tobin

 

[Remy B.]

I will go with the Loc-tite, if it is holding up for one year like Stuart mention that is more than enough for me.

Welding and cleaning it is not much of a problem but heat treating to do it right it is more the issue.

 

[cool_hardware52]

I will go with the Loc-tite, if it is holding up for one year like Stuart mention that is more than enough for me.

Welding and cleaning it is not much of a problem but heat treating to do it right it is more the issue.

Heat treating? 300 series Stainless? Please explain.

Tobin

 

[Remy B.]

Sorry, I meant Stress relieving ( it is heating it up in a oven to the right temperature for the alloy )
it is just to avoid the weld to crack.

 

[Bob DBF]

I used Locktite and had no problems, but the stress on my ring is minimal. For harder use I would probably put clear epoxy over the screw head and where it meets the plate. This would hold it in place, give indication if it moved, and avoid some fancy welding. Otherwise, I might look for, or have made up, a one piece unit.

Bob

 

[cool_hardware52]

Sorry, I meant Stress relieving ( it is heating it up in a oven to the right temperature for the alloy )
it is just to avoid the weld to crack.

300 series stainless is *very* ductile, no need to preheat for welding. Preventing weld cracking is a function of joint design and cooling rate on the weld puddle. Try pulsing the tig torch with increasing "off" periods to slow the cooling rate, i.e. on 1/2 second off 1 second, on 1/2 sec, off 2 secs etc. Also if the part allows drag the arc away from the end of the puddle as you reduce amperage / open the contactor.

"Austenitic stainless steels are metalurgically simple alloys. They are either 100% austenite or austenite with a small amount of ferrite (see Table 1). This is not the ferrite to be found in carbon steel but a high temperature form known as delta (δ) -ferrite. Unlike carbon and low alloy steels the austenitic stainless steels undergo no phase changes as they cool from high temperatures. They cannot therefore be quench hardened to form martensite and their mechanical properties to a great extent are unaffected by welding. Cold (hydrogen induced) cracking (Job Knowledge No. 45) is therefore not a problem and preheat is not necessary irrespective of component thickness."

Welding of austenitic stainless steel - Job Knowledge 103

Tobin