I took:
I took the p-cord and tied an overhand knot on both ends. I then took the knots and poked one in each end of the latex tubing. I locked the knots in place with zip ties and melted the ends from coming apart.
I then drilled a hole about a half an inch from the end that was just big enough for the p-cord to pass through doubled up.
I took the clothes hanger and cut the twisty top of and used the twisted part as the screw-in part at the end of the spear. The two ends still coming off became the pronged end (this was sanded down, sharpened and fire-hardened followed by a polishing).
I drilled a hole down the center, just long enough for the spiraled end of the clothes hanger, a little smaller than the spiraled end of the clothes hanger. On this same end, I shaved the wood to a partial point. This allowed for the hole at the end not to break open. The shaved portion of the shaft was sanded smooth. About 4" from the point, I roughed up a section just big enough for my hand to grip. I added some colored bands to mark the spot visually and add some flare.
The wood was then fire-hardened over an open flame (spinning just high enough away from the flame not to char) and sanded down. I did leave the rough spot rough, for obvious reasons.
The barb was fastened via impact and water resistant epoxy.
I am using a marine grad sealant from Sherwin-Williams to do a light coat over the shaft.
I tested the spear minus the sealant on land and could hit the target with ease.
I will post pictures and results of an underwater test soon (the pictures sooner than the test).
- a 4' long 1/4" dowel: $1.90
- 2' latex tubing: $3
- 9" p-cord: $free (had it around the house)
- Steel clothes hanger: $free (had it in the closet)
I took the p-cord and tied an overhand knot on both ends. I then took the knots and poked one in each end of the latex tubing. I locked the knots in place with zip ties and melted the ends from coming apart.
I then drilled a hole about a half an inch from the end that was just big enough for the p-cord to pass through doubled up.
I took the clothes hanger and cut the twisty top of and used the twisted part as the screw-in part at the end of the spear. The two ends still coming off became the pronged end (this was sanded down, sharpened and fire-hardened followed by a polishing).
I drilled a hole down the center, just long enough for the spiraled end of the clothes hanger, a little smaller than the spiraled end of the clothes hanger. On this same end, I shaved the wood to a partial point. This allowed for the hole at the end not to break open. The shaved portion of the shaft was sanded smooth. About 4" from the point, I roughed up a section just big enough for my hand to grip. I added some colored bands to mark the spot visually and add some flare.
The wood was then fire-hardened over an open flame (spinning just high enough away from the flame not to char) and sanded down. I did leave the rough spot rough, for obvious reasons.
The barb was fastened via impact and water resistant epoxy.
I am using a marine grad sealant from Sherwin-Williams to do a light coat over the shaft.
I tested the spear minus the sealant on land and could hit the target with ease.
I will post pictures and results of an underwater test soon (the pictures sooner than the test).