Help on Canister for Heater/Light

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rjack321

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All the LM battery packs seem to come with Built in Pitkin heads? Is there a way I can get just the pack with no Pitkin head and dual output? Then I could run the clip on Pitkin you linked above. That's what I originally was attempting but can't find the right combination of parts to order.
Why would you do this? The clip-on pitkin conversion doesn't have a switch. You still have to toggle the switch on the canister. You just have a much bulkier and danglier connnection with twice as many EO connectors to fail or corrode. The only value is the blinking light.
 
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InWay2Deep

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Why would you do this? The clip-on pitkin conversion doesn't have a switch. You still have to toggle the switch on the canister. You just have a much bulkier and danglier connnection with twice as many EO connectors to fail or corrode. The only value is the blinking light.

So whats the point of the clip-on pitkin? I had assumed the clip-on was basically the same as the switch on the head, just well, cliped on so I could access it. I wanted to do it since if I spine mount the canister I can't access the switch mid-dive. Not much detail is given on the LM site...

Thank you
 

rjack321

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So whats the point of the clip-on pitkin? I had assumed the clip-on was basically the same as the switch on the head, just well, cliped on so I could access it. I wanted to do it since if I spine mount the canister I can't access the switch mid-dive. Not much detail is given on the LM site...

Thank you
People commonly convert old light canisters into suit heaters. Take off the 10/18/21w HID light head and toss it. Add an EO cord and replace the NIMH battery with a li-ion. The remote pitkin was made to facilitate these kinds of conversions.

But yeah there's no switch in that dangly bit, just the electronics and a blinking LED to tell you the power setting.
 
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But yeah there's no switch in that dangly bit, just the electronics and a blinking LED to tell you the power setting.

HA, well that sucks and basically means no spine mounting suit heater then (assuming I want to control the output, which I do).

This helps clear up why I can't do what I want to do. Thanks!
 

rjack321

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HA, well that sucks and basically means no spine mounting suit heater then (assuming I want to control the output, which I do).

This helps clear up why I can't do what I want to do. Thanks!
Unless you use the UWLD canister and controller - that has a remote switch.

How much heat power / duration do you need? What vest are you using? or god forbid the santi full suit lol.

You can get the UWLD stuff it's just going to be a few months. I have a 2nd canister coming that I ordered in September
 
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Unless you use the UWLD canister and controller - that has a remote switch.

How much heat power / duration do you need? What vest are you using? or god forbid the santi full suit lol.

You can get the UWLD stuff it's just going to be a few months. I have a 2nd canister coming that I ordered in September

I'm planning on getting the LM Heater Base, would like 2-3 hrs of heating ability maybe at 50%. By the time I get UWLD it will be to late to be useful.
 

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Would you expand more on why?

Thanks for all the replies, confirming my suspicion this isn't as easy as it could be. I really wish LM would hire a product and marketing person, one click ordering of Light/Heater combos would be wonderful...
I buttmounted my canister for years because that's what I was taught when I learned sm. I thought that the can on my hip would be annoying with the sm tanks, so I never even tried. I moved to a bm ccr with sm'd bailout and decided to give hip mounting a try. I liked it so much that I now do it for any sm diving. It doesn't get in the way of the tanks at all. The only annoyance is if I dive al80s I don't hip mount because I need 2 d-rings or a sliding dring to move the tanks as they get light. For me, the cord routing is easier. I also like to tuck excess cord into my waistband when the light is stowed which you can't really do when it's buttmounted.
 
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I buttmounted my canister for years because that's what I was taught when I learned sm. I thought that the can on my hip would be annoying with the sm tanks, so I never even tried. I moved to a bm ccr with sm'd bailout and decided to give hip mounting a try. I liked it so much that I now do it for any sm diving. It doesn't get in the way of the tanks at all. The only annoyance is if I dive al80s I don't hip mount because I need 2 d-rings or a sliding dring to move the tanks as they get light. For me, the cord routing is easier. I also like to tuck excess cord into my waistband when the light is stowed which you can't really do when it's buttmounted.

Yea, that was my concern, my waist is already crowded with d-rings. I'd like to setup 1 configuration and stick with it no matter what tanks I'm diving. I think I'll go with butt mounting the heater canister for now and save the spine for the light battery.
 

rjack321

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Yea, that was my concern, my waist is already crowded with d-rings. I'd like to setup 1 configuration and stick with it no matter what tanks I'm diving. I think I'll go with butt mounting the heater canister for now and save the spine for the light battery.
Three suggestions
1) get a larger battery than you might first think. 10ah would work for you but you will be deep draining it if you do multiple dives / day. 15ah is a bit $$ hit but it will last longer with bigger reserve. Don't stop it fully charged.

2) just turn it on low at the start (eg 40% to 60% power or ~15-24watts) and leave it on. You don't need to mess with the switch and changing power levels as much as you think.

3) don't ever dive warm to cold. If for whatever reason your battery dies halfway through your dive - as much as you want "out" of the water you need to extend your safety stops or deco even more than otherwise would.
 
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InWay2Deep

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Three suggestions
1) get a larger battery than you might first think. 10ah would work for you but you will be deep draining it if you do multiple dives / day. 15ah is a bit $$ hit but it will last longer with bigger reserve. Don't stop it fully charged.

2) just turn it on low at the start (eg 40% to 60% power or ~15-24watts) and leave it on. You don't need to mess with the switch and changing power levels as much as you think.

3) don't ever dive warm to cold. If for whatever reason your battery dies halfway through your dive - as much as you want "out" of the water you need to extend your safety stops or deco even more than otherwise would.

Makes sense, I was debating between the 20 and 30, sounds like the 20 should be plenty then.

What does "Don't stop it fully charged" mean?

Thanks!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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