Help on Canister for Heater/Light

[InWay2Deep]

I have a XDeep Tech and I want to start running a heater now (dry suit) and add a light down the road, water temps 40-50*, I'm usually fine while moving, but get cold hanging around. I already have the spine mount (DLUXE) for the Argon bottle so I figured why not put a canister on the other side. Problem I'm running into it seems like most of the canisters have the Pitkin controller built into the head (specifically looking at the light monkey), so I won't be able to adjust the heater output mid-dive. I liked the idea of the LM Dual output as I'll have another E/O connector to power the light down the road but again, with where I want to mount it, not an option. I'd rather not mount it on my waist.

What would be my best option for this, Large canister mounted in the spine where I can still adjust heater output? I've seen a Pitkin controller that clips to your shoulder D-Ring, are those viable options? How is it powered? Single E/O from canister? Then how do I power a light from the same canister? Also any suggestions on getting power in the suit? Again, looking at the LM Bulkhead but seems like it will add quite a bit of bulk to the inflator? What happened to the 'low profile' valve? Should I just plan on having 2 canisters? Butt mount the suit heater canister (would like to avoid) and mount the light canister in the spine? I will not put a battery inside my suit, thanks.

 

[lermontov]

Heater Accessories

www.lightmonkey.us

Heater Packs

www.lightmonkey.us

-
the pitkin switch is variable -switching it back and forward quickly turns it down or up

Dual Output

www.lightmonkey.us

the dual battery pack can run both with the pitkin switch im not sure what the difference is between the dual and the single battery as the singles dont recommend running both off it
I used the santi low profile dump valve and heater E/O - I was concerned id lose a bit on profile but its not too bad - make sure r the cable is long enough to reach th battery if you put it away around your back you can specify length when you order.
Another thing I did was to glue a little bump on the lid and a small plastic straw/tube over the switch so I could feel its on /off position more easily with thick /dry gloves on

 

[tbone1004]

Buy an Underwater Light Dude which solves those problems for you…
Buy the can with the heat controller now, buy the light later and stack the caps.
Higher quality, no latches, more heat output available, no dangly second cord when you don’t need/want the light head.

 

[rddvet]

My wife has the dual output light monkey with built in pipkin and loves it. I have the uwld and it’s good, but it’s one more long cord (too long IMO) and a controller you have to clip off to a chest dring. Not a big deal until you’re diving ccr and already have 2 mavs and other things taking up real estate. The other negative to uwld is you can only use his light with his packs. Not an issue for me since I love his light (which is why I use his controller). But with the lm you can use any e/o light head.

 

[tbone1004]

My wife has the dual output light monkey with built in pipkin and loves it. I have the uwld and it’s good, but it’s one more long cord (too long IMO) and a controller you have to clip off to a chest dring. Not a big deal until you’re diving ccr and already have 2 mavs and other things taking up real estate. The other negative to uwld is you can only use his light with his packs. Not an issue for me since I love his light (which is why I use his controller). But with the lm you can use any e/o light head.

True though when you order you can get custom cord lengths. I butt mount mine and it works really well for me, but I’m a bit taller than most. My lights are custom length as well so if you when you order that you’ll need long or short it can be changed.

 

[grantctobin]

To address the bottle+cans along spine, you can:

-Argon on spine, light on spine, heat on butt (w integrated Pitkin)
-Argon on spine, light + heat on spine a la UWLD with custom length controller up to your chest
-Argon on spine, light + heat on butt a la LM dual output w Pitkin in head, easy enough to reach the toggles unless you top mount stages which is a dying practice
-Argon + light on butt, heat stroke mounted like a stage on your left or right side
-Use Fathom Pitkin 2 controller which is in line and cycles through using taps. You could get dual output standard EO LM head, run one for light, one to the Fathom controller and then into your suit. If you don’t need heat, you have redundancy in E/O or you can run video lights off each side.

The spine stuff is nice until you’re really squeezing into stuff. Look to what some of the sidewinder crowd is doing for suggestions. You can hide an AL6, 2L, and two 20Ah battery cans cleanly even with larger (15+L primary bottles), but manipulation of stages under the right side becomes problematic at best.

TLR cold water sidemount sucks, especially if you care about your profile height and can’t drop stages.

 

[rddvet]

True though when you order you can get custom cord lengths. I butt mount mine and it works really well for me, but I’m a bit taller than most. My lights are custom length as well so if you when you order that you’ll need long or short it can be changed.

I need to send mine back to Bobby to be shortened. I've had pretty much put custom lengths on all my UWLDs except the heat controller. It's obvious Bobby made the cord long for butt mounting. I've put off sending the controller in for a shorter cord because I don't want to bother him with it. But the controller has the old cord with the blue covering and I really prefer the new cord he's been using. Much more pliable.

To the OP, I buttmounted for years. Now I hip mount like in bm for sm and ccr.

 

[InWay2Deep]

the pitkin switch is variable -switching it back and forward quickly turns it down or up

All the LM battery packs seem to come with Built in Pitkin heads? Is there a way I can get just the pack with no Pitkin head and dual output? Then I could run the clip on Pitkin you linked above. That's what I originally was attempting but can't find the right combination of parts to order.

Buy an Underwater Light Dude which solves those problems for you…

All on backorder...

Argon on spine, light on spine, heat on butt (w integrated Pitkin)

This is looking like the way I'm going to have to go. If I had to buy 2 packs i'd just rather have the ability to swap battery packs around as needed. Maybe light battery dies I could just grab the heater battery and vice versa. Going dedicated heater pack and light pack I won't have this ability.

To the OP, I buttmounted for years. Now I hip mount like in bm for sm and ccr.

Would you expand more on why?

Thanks for all the replies, confirming my suspicion this isn't as easy as it could be. I really wish LM would hire a product and marketing person, one click ordering of Light/Heater combos would be wonderful...

 

[grantctobin]

Thanks for all the replies, confirming my suspicion this isn't as easy as it could be. I really wish LM would hire a product and marketing person, one click ordering of Light/Heater combos would be wonderful...

Give them a call. I’d be surprised if they wouldn’t build what you’re looking for. It’s kind of a niche case though, and in their shoes, not something I’d keep in stock.

 

[rjack321]

Coldwater sidemount CCR (sidewinder) user here...

First recommendation - unless you actually NEED to be doing SM trimix, with heat in cold water then don't. It's a pita. The vast majority of scubaboarders diving SM are just goofing off and not doing SM required diving.

My personal configuration for canisters on the SMS75 I use with my kiss:
Right hip, 20ah pack for suit heat. This is a "9ah" NIMH canister with my own battery. 18*3400mah cells. Lasts 4 hrs on a 50W high vest setting. I only wear one stage at a time and it's left side only. 2nd stage gets butt clipped on a leash.

Left hip 1.1L carbon fiber suit gas bottle stroke mounted, 10cf at 4300psi. Not DOT approved, semi disposable cylinder, requires a compressor, but when 6cf isn't enough suit gas this is your only option.

Butt mounted 150wh UWLD light can - the light head mounted piezo switch is very handy

Butt mounted 21ah scrubber heater battery - there's no switch on this canister it runs until the BMS turns it off based on voltage.

In your case I would butt mount a 6cf suit gas bottle, butt mount a light canister, right hip mount a suit heat canister. The spine mount suit gas is meh. First stage (eg EAN50) is mounted left and underneath your primary bottle. Rotate the half used 50% (which will be floatier once you breath half of it) with an Al30/40 of O2 which is butt clipped.