Help me understand what strobe setup to start out with

[jgnu]

Hi,

I'm a fairly experienced photographer above sea level, and have in the recent year started to understand that bringing a camera underwater is pretty spectacular

Anyway, I pretty much only dive on vacations, so investing in a proper housing for my DSLR was never really something I considered. I instead have an Olumpus TG-820 with the corresponding olympus uw-housing. The TG-820 does not have a manual mode,but I must say I'm quite impressed with how it performs in its various underwater modes.

Above the surface I'm a big fan of making-do with whatever natural light there is, and not very into flash photography at all Underwater things are obviously a bit different, and I'm starting to look for a strobe and some sort of arm-setup to add to my existing camera setup...

What sort of strobe (I'm looking at getting a single-strobe setup to start out with) would you recommend for me? I have been looking at the S&S DS-01/02, but I'm having a hard time figuring out if the more expensive one is worth it with my camera?

 

[JackConnick]

Hi;

I think you mean the Sea & Sea YS-01/02...those would be a very good choice and value.

They have the same power and either will work fine for your camera. the only difference is that the YS-01 has TTL-auto operation which will work great with your smaller camera to automatically figure out the exposure. It also has a targeting light so you can figue out where it's pointing - quite handy. Be sure not to use auto-iso though.

The YS-02 saves some money, but doesn't have the auto TTL or target light.

You will also need a tray and arms and a sync cord. We have ready-to-dive lighting packages with all the parts you need.

Be sure to see our Education section for free guides on strobes and tips on Basic Techniques to help you get started.

 

[jgnu]

Thanks for the helpful reply!

Yeah I meant the YS-01/02

So, the TTL mode basically means the strobe has an exposure meter and adjusts the power of the flash automatically then? There is no communication between then camera and the strobe (part from the strobe firing as a slave to the built-in flash)?

This would in that case differ a bit from what TTL usually means above sea level, and that's why I'm a bit confused..
Anyway, I was not sure the TTL would work just any compact camera such as mine, so that is good to know.

The focus light is actually something that seems really valuable to me. I'm guessing this would be more or less a must-have on night dives, right? Using my regular dive light to focus and compose and then pointing it away to let the camera expose correctly is something I've tried with almost no success at all

It feels like I'll probably end up getting the YS-01.. not entirely sure though.

 

[herbdb]

You definitely need a focus light for night diving. A focus light will shut down when it detects the flash keeping you from having a hotspot in the photo. When I night dive, my backup light stays in a pocket and I use my focus light to illuminate the reef and subjects.

As I understand it, TTL in most UW applications adjusts the strobe duration by analyzing a preflash. It all happens too fast for us to detect.

 

[KeithG]

I suggest you do some additional research about underwater strobes & what features they offer. Then you can make a better cost versus feature judgement when purchasing.

Many people tend to buy the cheapest, lowest feature strobe and then need to repurchase a higher featured strobe as they progress. Sparse featured strobes are great, but limited in their capability.

I am still learning myself and my ever growing list of must know features is:
- builtin target light (pros & cons)
- flash angle
- flash power (how much light on max)
- manual adjustment
- fibre versus wired sync
- ability to handle compact preflashes
- ability to work in full manual mode

I started with a fibre sync compact camera and a pair of (allegedly) ttl capable strobes. The combo on automatic works great most of the time. Sometimes it does not work at all. I am in the process of converting to full manual via wired sync cords. My only costs will be some sync cables and a bit of bulkhead work on the housing as my camera has a hot shoe.

Both the camera and the strobes were already capable of making the next step up. In hind sight I was lucky as I was not aware of what was required when I firstly purchased.

 

[JackConnick]

The strobe does communicate with the camera through the sync cord and mimicks the on-board flash duration. Actually does work the same above water with cameras like Nikons that use a "commander" mode to communicate with other external strobes with IR.

Yes, a focus light is important, it helps you frame the photo better and your camera to auto-focus. Essential for night dives.

 

[jgnu]

The strobe does communicate with the camera through the sync cord and mimicks the on-board flash duration. Actually does work the same above water with cameras like Nikons that use a "commander" mode to communicate with other external strobes with IR.

I see.

Does this then mean that this only works with a wired sync cord (to the camera hotshoe, which my camera does not have)?

I can't wrap my head around how it could work using the fiber optic cable from then built-in flash... The camera isn't even aware that there is a strobe after all... I thought the fiber optic cable was only a way to trigger the external strobe without getting the light from the internal strobe on the subject? (like a regular, dry, flash in slave mode). Is this wrong?

 

[KeithG]

I see.

Does this then mean that this only works with a wired sync cord (to the camera hotshoe, which my camera does not have)?

I can't wrap my head around how it could work using the fiber optic cable from then built-in flash... The camera isn't even aware that there is a strobe after all... I thought the fiber optic cable was only a way to trigger the external strobe without getting the light from the internal strobe on the subject? (like a regular, dry, flash in slave mode). Is this wrong?

Wired and fibre optic sync cords work very differently.

As you guessed, a fibre optic cord is a 1 way communication link from camera to a strobe working in optical slave mode. This type of setup will often work without the fibre cable. As long as enough of the inboard camera flash hits the strobe sensor things will work. The fibre optic cable just makes the light link "better". This also means that other cameras may trigger your optical strobe - the fibre optic cable eliminates this problem by covering the optical sensor on your strobe so that it can only see light from your camera.

A wired synch cable can (may) provide 2 way communication between the camera and strobe, but it does require that they are compatible as different camera manufacturers use different strobe protocol and wiring setups.

 

[JackConnick]

Yup. What he said.

You're over-thinking this. The strobes use a D-TTL proticol, info travels from the camera to the strobe via light, telling it when to turn on/off. The camera sees the strobe and figures when it has enough light.

 

[Ardy]

JGNU: I think there are 2 ways to go when starting with strobes. The ideal route is to buy an excellent flash ie Sea n Sea YS D1 or Inon Z240 and pay the money as strobes go from set up to set up and last for many years. The other way I advise my friends who are starting out is to buy a cheap (ie >$100) SnS manual flash as they are most popular on ebay and learn how to use manual flash U/W. Once they are comfortable with that and decide to stick with UW photo's buy a good flash.

I am sure Jack could supply you a D1 or Inon.

Forget the money when it comes to flashes it is worth paying the extra.

I am as mean as a church mouse but I bought 2 good flashes for my set up and have never regretted it.