Heat Voltage

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

No problem. The heated wear is based on 12V automotive (or motorcycle) applications. The 12V operation is really 13-14V when operating.

Much like a 1.5V battery (AAA, AA, C, D cell) will typically meter at almost 1.6V when new.
 
No problem. The heated wear is based on 12V automotive (or motorcycle) applications. The 12V operation is really 13-14V when operating.

Much like a 1.5V battery (AAA, AA, C, D cell) will typically meter at almost 1.6V when new.
So in theory, the higher voltage should offer a little more heat?
 
In theory should be hotter, (more amps through the element)
not necessarily more wattage, thats depent on drift in voltage and amp hr of battery
 
In theory should be hotter, (more amps through the element)
not necessarily more wattage, thats depent on drift in voltage and amp hr of battery
Thanks for the replies
I’ll post my findings
 
I assume you are switching to lithium battery?
 
The UWLD vest output on high is a constant 13.6v which is alternator output and what the elements in most all of these heated vests were designed for.
Halcyon/Light Monkey is outputting direct battery voltage which fluctuates from about 12v when you first turn it on down to about 10.5v or so when it's dead. Full charge from these is setting 4 or about 80% on the UWLD controller.

You'll be fine running 13.6-14v from an equipment standpoint, but you'll be quite warm.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom