benha
Registered
Hello!
I have an H15T4 and a filter stack that I acquired at a very, very modest cost from a junk yard that was parting out a fire support truck that filled SCBA tanks. It was originally supplied by American Bristol, and the filter towers all came from them.
I had to get it out of the truck in a hurry and didn't photo-document as thoroughly as I should have, and now I'm trying to put things back together. For the most part it's all making sense, but there's one issue that's a bit confusing:
The filter stack consists of four towers with various elements. The first of these towers has a pipe coming off it's bleed location with a flare fitting on it. The aftercooler moisture coalescer on the compressor has a tee on the outlet that has a tube coming off it that has a flare fitting on it.
My bet is that these two fittings were connected via a pipe in the original install, and that the intent is that the bulk moisture pulled out by the first tower gets pushed out when the drains are activated, but I'm not sure if that's a reasonable bet. Anyone seen anything like this before?
On a related note, there's a solenoid valve in the drain line from the first stage moisture separator to the drain/unloading system. My assumption is that this is how they've implemented an auto drain system since the drains are triggered by cascading reductions in pressure, stage by stage. So if you open that valve to ATM and bleed the pressure off the first stage coalescer outlet, you'll trigger a cascade effect that blows off all the stage drains. Anyone seen anything like that before? If I want to implement automatic draining, my bet is all I need to do is put a timer switch in the electrical system that opens that valve every 20 minutes and it'll "just work." That make sense to y'all? If so, for how long would I probably want to leave the valve open to accomplish a complete drain cycle?
*Note: The original control was performed by an old Lightning Electronics compressor control module that's no longer functional, so I'm going to hook the thing up DOL, and just put a timer switch in the system to control the drains. This part is all DIY at this point...
Thanks,
-Ben
I have an H15T4 and a filter stack that I acquired at a very, very modest cost from a junk yard that was parting out a fire support truck that filled SCBA tanks. It was originally supplied by American Bristol, and the filter towers all came from them.
I had to get it out of the truck in a hurry and didn't photo-document as thoroughly as I should have, and now I'm trying to put things back together. For the most part it's all making sense, but there's one issue that's a bit confusing:
The filter stack consists of four towers with various elements. The first of these towers has a pipe coming off it's bleed location with a flare fitting on it. The aftercooler moisture coalescer on the compressor has a tee on the outlet that has a tube coming off it that has a flare fitting on it.
My bet is that these two fittings were connected via a pipe in the original install, and that the intent is that the bulk moisture pulled out by the first tower gets pushed out when the drains are activated, but I'm not sure if that's a reasonable bet. Anyone seen anything like this before?
On a related note, there's a solenoid valve in the drain line from the first stage moisture separator to the drain/unloading system. My assumption is that this is how they've implemented an auto drain system since the drains are triggered by cascading reductions in pressure, stage by stage. So if you open that valve to ATM and bleed the pressure off the first stage coalescer outlet, you'll trigger a cascade effect that blows off all the stage drains. Anyone seen anything like that before? If I want to implement automatic draining, my bet is all I need to do is put a timer switch in the electrical system that opens that valve every 20 minutes and it'll "just work." That make sense to y'all? If so, for how long would I probably want to leave the valve open to accomplish a complete drain cycle?
*Note: The original control was performed by an old Lightning Electronics compressor control module that's no longer functional, so I'm going to hook the thing up DOL, and just put a timer switch in the system to control the drains. This part is all DIY at this point...
Thanks,
-Ben
