meisburger
Guest
I recently bought a Canon A-95 and Canon housing and have been looking around the Board for some help getting started with this set-up. I searched for a basic Underwater with the A-95 for Dummies type article, but didnt find one, so decided to start the process of putting one together. I hope others (people who actually know something) will continue, and correct, this article, so that eventually it can be posted as an introductory guide. I have entitled it A-series rather than A-95, since I believe all the cameras operate basically the same.
I have collected some notes below. Some may be un-attributed, as I didnt think to copy the author and am too lazy to go back and search again. Sorry about that. Feel free to credit yourself in this space.
(someone else) I will add that either on land or in a pool or snorkling start using manual mode. Since you are calculating the exposure (setting shutter and aperture) this elimates the lag of the camera trying to do it. All the camera is worrying about is focus. Use the half press method it is the only way or you will never get a fish shot. Use the flash and get close (very close), be patient - one or two good shots in a dive will be far more rewarding than 50 average ones. Once you get a bit more experience try to increase this is 5 great shots in a dive - that is 50 great shots every 10 dives (your collection starts building quickly.
Turn off the AiAF (it now only focus on a centre square and doesn't stupidly try and pick what it thinks you are trying to focus on).
Now for some very important information. Don't try and shot fast moving fish straight away - look for nudibranchs, sea stars, corals, scorpianfish and other slow moving or non-moving life. Get some good shots there you will be happy and you can get the fish shots once you get a bit more experience. You do not need to take a picture of everything in a dive. Select a subject and spend 5 minutes trying to get a good shot - if uncooperative move on.
Use the scene mode when you are shooting with natural light. It will probably help a little with colours.
Good Advice
Don't be disheartened you are still enjoying great diving - so your shots werent perfect you had the experience. I had had some amazing dives and experiences which I didn't capture on camera or the shots were not first grade but who cares - these experiences will be with me forever and that is what diving is about.
But best option is to use the internal strobe and get close to what you are trying to shoot to avoid backscatter. This means mostly do macro work. When I say close I mean about a maximum of about 1 - 1.5ft. And as close as about 2in for something like a nudibranch.
You will get some great shots if you are patient get nice and close. I would get bogged down in manual mode just yet until you have some time to use the camera a bit more. But for a start just use the program mode (P) and half push to focus. This mode allows some settings - set the iso to 50, and the white balance to flash or daylight when using the strobe. Set the camera to use only the centre point for focus (ie turn off 9-point AiAF), set image quality to highest (large/superfine).
Hope this is a useful initiative, Tim
I have collected some notes below. Some may be un-attributed, as I didnt think to copy the author and am too lazy to go back and search again. Sorry about that. Feel free to credit yourself in this space.
alcina:This assumes that your diving skills are excellent before you get in with a camera. If your diving skills are rusty, the very best thing you can do for your photography is to get in the water and get your buoyancy and other skills down pat. THEN add a camera. Discussion of this is beyond the scope of this thread, but if you need advice on which skills or what to do pop me a PM or start a question thread so everyone can see it...now for the good stuff
First, head for manual mode and learn how to use it. The small extra effort before you go underwater will pay off in a much higher rate of keepers IMHO
Shutter Speed
I am giving this advice based on my recent trip to Coz and on my use of the A70 & A75...some things may be a little different on the other models, but hopefully this will get you in the ballpark.
First, set your shutter speed for 1/250 or so. There is more than enough light down there in Coz, I found. A fast shutter will help freeze action and you shouldn't get too much blur. I wouldn't use program/auto mode...the camera will select a shutter speed that is too slow and you will get blurry shots.
Aperture
Next, try your aperture around 5.6 or so...you may have to change one or both of these settings during the dive if it looks like your photos are blown out. Use f8 on things like nudibranchs and other tiny, detailed critters.
Remember, in most screens on digital cameras if the colours look nice and bright and well exposed they are actually OVER exposed and you need to adjust to make them a bit darker. YMMV but I use this as a good rule of thumb.
Dealing with Shutter Lag
Now for shutter lag. You cannot control this, it's just one of those things you are going to have to work around when using any digital non-slr. Prefocus by half press of the shutter then there shouldn't be any significant lag when you fully press to take a photo. This is one of the hardest things to "learn" when moving from film. You are going to have be patient and wait for the fish/creature to "pose" to take the shot. It'll be worth it.
Other Tips
Slow down. Even while drift diving it is possible to do this. Don't pursue the fish/creature...most of the time this will make them turn away. Have your camera & arms in position so you aren't making dramatic movements when you take a photo...this will also let you have a nice place to prefocus from.
This approach will also help you take shots of creatures that are actually moving - fish, eels, rays, turtles etc. Try to not make large gestures or sudden movements; lead the shot slightly for the half-press prefocus and wait for the subject to get far enough into the frame before full press.
Being prepared with your settings will also help you get that elusive moving target. Usually when cruising the reef I reset my camera to my "defaults" - f4.5 to f5.6 and shutter 1/200 to 1/400. This gives me the shutter speed to capture things and gives me a nice water colour...you'll have to do some test shots at the beginning of your dive to find what works where you are. Then when I see a subject I would like I can concentrate on focus/aiming instead of settings. If I have time, I can adjust and reshoot.
Don't shoot down. Always try to shoot up or at least at an angle. Shooting down works for those camouflaged creatures like scorpionfish, octopus etc to show how cleverly they are hidden, but makes images look flat and your subject will often appear dull or get lost.
Practice practice practice. If you can do shore dives or snorkelling or even in the swimming pool get in there with the camera. You don't have to keep your results, but practice is the only way you will get a feel for how long it takes for your camera to go from cold (no prefocus) to a worthwhile shot. Then you get to try to "time" that when you diving...it can be frustrating, but keep at it...you'll be surprised at how fast you get it!!
Know the limitations of your camera.
- Don't try for those all encompassing reef scenes or wrecks...if you do, turn off the flash and go for the outline/blues look.
- Know your minimum focus distance. If you go inside of this your photos will be blurry. This changes as you use zoom (it gets farther away). Practice on land with a ruler so you get a feel for things.
- Remember your internal strobe is only good for about 4 feet. Canon A series users may want to turn their flash intensity down to 2/3s instead of full or you will overexpose things that are close. Play with increasing the intensity if you are trying for a shot 5+ feet away.
- Set your camera to macro mode and leave it there.
- Turn off the red eye function.
- Reduce backscatter by shooting against a reef background instead of into the blue. Turn off your flash when shooting silver fish in a blue background.
- Whenever possible, take more than one or two frames of your subject.
- Shoot, review, adjust, shoot, review, adjust, shoot etc...
Macro Mode
I keep my camera in macro mode always unless I know I am going to concentrate on really big guys, like manta rays or whale sharks. And even then I have been known to leave it on. I believe that basically what the macro function does is tell the camera to start looking closer for your focus...and since we always want to be closer underwater, seems like a good plan of attack to me. You might find something else works for you, but I'd say my macro mode stays on 95% of the time....
Strobes (Internal and External)
Be prepared to pay substantially more for a strobe than you did for your camera plus housing. They are not cheap and the "cheap" ones are mostly you get what you pay for. Once you have a look at the strobe finder above, do a search with the Advanced Search function here to find out details on each one.
If I could buy one strobe right now it would be Inon's D2000. I have the 220s and absolutely love it...would recommend it. I love manual control and the 2000 has even more settings for that plus what is shaping up to be good ttl-type control. Inons are small, lightweight and take AA batteries so I only have to drag one charger around.
Ask questions. Post your images here for help or PM one of the gallery posters that you think might be able to help...I am always happy to help.
Have fun! Don't forget this bit
(someone else) I will add that either on land or in a pool or snorkling start using manual mode. Since you are calculating the exposure (setting shutter and aperture) this elimates the lag of the camera trying to do it. All the camera is worrying about is focus. Use the half press method it is the only way or you will never get a fish shot. Use the flash and get close (very close), be patient - one or two good shots in a dive will be far more rewarding than 50 average ones. Once you get a bit more experience try to increase this is 5 great shots in a dive - that is 50 great shots every 10 dives (your collection starts building quickly.
Turn off the AiAF (it now only focus on a centre square and doesn't stupidly try and pick what it thinks you are trying to focus on).
Now for some very important information. Don't try and shot fast moving fish straight away - look for nudibranchs, sea stars, corals, scorpianfish and other slow moving or non-moving life. Get some good shots there you will be happy and you can get the fish shots once you get a bit more experience. You do not need to take a picture of everything in a dive. Select a subject and spend 5 minutes trying to get a good shot - if uncooperative move on.
Use the scene mode when you are shooting with natural light. It will probably help a little with colours.
Good Advice
Don't be disheartened you are still enjoying great diving - so your shots werent perfect you had the experience. I had had some amazing dives and experiences which I didn't capture on camera or the shots were not first grade but who cares - these experiences will be with me forever and that is what diving is about.
But best option is to use the internal strobe and get close to what you are trying to shoot to avoid backscatter. This means mostly do macro work. When I say close I mean about a maximum of about 1 - 1.5ft. And as close as about 2in for something like a nudibranch.
You will get some great shots if you are patient get nice and close. I would get bogged down in manual mode just yet until you have some time to use the camera a bit more. But for a start just use the program mode (P) and half push to focus. This mode allows some settings - set the iso to 50, and the white balance to flash or daylight when using the strobe. Set the camera to use only the centre point for focus (ie turn off 9-point AiAF), set image quality to highest (large/superfine).
Hope this is a useful initiative, Tim
