Galapagos land-based report

[jalber]

Just wanted to share some photos (taken by the divemaster, I should add - I enjoy looking at the wildlife too much to get into underwater photography just yet!) from our trip to the Galapagos 10 days ago.
Looks like it was the perfect time of year to go; although we couldn't afford a liveaboard, the sheer volume and diversity of stuff we saw was mind-blowing. As on land, where the animals are fearless due to the lack of land-based predators, so below the water: we played for 45mins with a group of sealions, who tried to eat our fins. We had nose-close encounters with large schools of white-tips out hunting (when they were resting in caves, they preferred not to be disturbed, and would swim away disgruntled!) We saw a vast manta ray emerge from the green haze (visibility is very poor at this time of year, but it comes with the wildlife) and swim past within 2m of us. We saw the largest schools of fish (amongst which barracuda) I've ever seen, including in tropical waters. We saw schools too large to count of spotted eagle and mobula rays. There were strange fish, like the batfish or the Galapagos sea robbin. And of course, large schools of hammerheads, sweeping their strange scalloped heads through the ocean, although they were always wary and rarely came close except when we were above or below them.
It's hard to imagine better diving than this (unless of course you make it to Darwin and Wolf). We went with Scuba Iguana, who were a great, professional and friendly organisation. We were very well fed and looked after throughout the 6 days, and also had time in the afternoons to explore the island of Santa Cruz, which is packed with wildlife.
To anyone considering going, cast away any doubts, and go for it, either land-based or liveaboard. You won't find better diving than this anywhere else!

Collection: Galapagos Diving (complete), Aug 2009

 

[Leejnd]

WOW! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this! I just booked my land-based Galapagos dives for October. We're only going to be there for a short time (we'll be with a tour group going to several locations, including Machu Picchu) so we only have two days to dive. I've been stressing over what dive sites to choose - I keep reading that Gordon Rocks should be at the top of my list, but I've also heard that it can be hairy there - washing machine currents and surge, bad vis, etc. But your photos from Gordon Rocks are amazing! It's a little murky, but not nearly as bad as what we see here in SoCal every day. And all that life!

Can you share anything about what the conditions were like at Gordons Rocks?

 

[jalber]

Hi Lee Anne, Glad you like the photos. Gordon Rocks was pretty much as you describe it, very choppy, very poor visibility, but loads of hammerhead sharks. You basically descend down, hang onto a rock to avoid the washing machine, and we saw sharks immediately - they come right up to you, take a look and swim off (they don't like bubbles, so try to stay a bit hidden behind the rocks). You can generally see schools of them swimming nearby, but we found after they'd made a first pass, they tend to keep their distance. We also saw a manta ray there the second time we went. Scuba Iguana have a schedule of a different location each day, but they offered to go back to Gordon instead of one of the other sites (can't remember which, but it was on the Tuesday). Not much else to see at Gordon Rocks apart from the hammerheads (the manta was a one-off, I think), but definitely worth it.
Have fun!!

 

[rogerp]

Hi Jalber
Great pics. I am from Singapore and is also keen to go to Galapagos. A liveaboard is also too expensive for us consider I have to pay a long way airticket to reach there. Just want to find out, i assume you dived with scuba Iguana, how much did you pay for your day trips? I assume hotel there are in the affordable range?

Roger

 

[jalber]

Hi Roger,
We paid $170 per person per day for 2 dives, including all equipment, boat trips & lunch. Quite pricey by international standards, but typical for the more expensive Galapagos.
We found a bed and breakfast called La Peregrina, a few mins walk from Scuba Iguana, for $40 per night, which again is expensive by comparison with the rest of Ecuador, but the best deal we could find in Galapagos.
Hope this helps. Have a great trip - you're gonna love it!
Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.
Best,
James

 

[heidihart88]

Jalber- this is great, same info I was looking for, the only thing I'm missing now is did you do any land activities? I mainly want to dive but figure I should probably see some of the islands and dry animals as well. Anything you would recommend?

Thanks!

 

[jalber]

Yes, one of the objectives of doing land-based diving on Santa Cruz was so we could do some land-based activities. There is now complete separation between the cruise ships that take you onto different islands and the diving operators (both liveaboards and land-based), i.e. the cruise ships can take you onto different islands but you can't dive off them; but when diving you're not allowed to step onto any of the islands. The only island that you can visit without a permit/cruise is Santa Cruz, and there's tonnes of stuff to do there.
I really recommend the tortoise farm, just a few miles north of Puerto Ayora (the main town). You can see giant tortoises in the wild (we also saw them bathing!), and there are loads of finches around.
Then there are the larva tunnels nearby, which are an unusual feature. You can walk through them, and crawl through the final part.
There are also several large volcanic craters nearby, which are impressive.
Scuba Iguana do a half-day tour of all of the above, which we did on the first day once we'd checked our dive equipment. It was a bit pricey at $150, but the charge was in total, so if you can get more people to go, it'll be cheaper. If you go on your own, you'll need someone to drive you to these sites (although you could get a truck from the centre of town for half a day probably cheaper).
Then there is the Charles Darwin station, within walking distance from the centre of Puerto A. It's free to get in and there's lots to see, including many giant tortoises (although the famous Lonesome George is pretty depressing), iguanas and other wildlife. You can read about all the research projects being undertaken - there's lots of stuff given that it's the bicentenary (I think?) of Darwin's book.
You can also visit a fresh water inlet, about 20mins walk south west from the centre of town, through some salt lakes. It's a lovely spot, where you can swim in fresh, cold and very clear water, surrounded by cliffs on either side. Some crazy people jump into the water from 10m height.
But for me, the best thing on Santa Cruz is Turtle Bay. It's a 40min walk from the centre of town (don't believe Lonely Planet - it's much further than they suggest!) After a beautiful walk along a path strewn with lava boulders, enormous cacti and the ubiquitous larva lizards, you end up at the most lovely white sand beach, with crashing pacific waves. If you continue along the beach for another 15mins or so, you'll find another, more protected beach. It's less dramatic, but nicer for swimming. Plus there are tonnes of iguanas nearby, plus blue-footed boobies, blue herons and other wildlife. As I'm sure you know, you can get right up to the animals and they aren't afraid of humans, making it a great experience.
What a lot of people do is to do say 4 days diving, then go on a cruise ship for several days, but we spent 6 days diving and in the afternoons (some days you get back around 3), went to Turtle Bay. I really think the 6 days diving were worth it, as if you come half way round the world you want to see as much as possible, and you never get a perfect dive each time. For us, we saw enough of the islands on the one half-day highlands tour, plus the excursions around Santa Cruz in the afternoons, but there are other more exotic islands around the archipelago which may be more impressive. Depends what your priorities are and how much time/money you have...

 

[DiveTheGalapagos]

If anyone is going land-based, I could not recommend strongly enough taking the public boat over to Isabela for a few days. Non-diving land-based activities there are far superior to Santa Cruz. Sierra Negra Volcano Trek...Los Tuneles is one of the most magical places in the whole of the Galapagos...great snorkeling from shore, etc.

I do think the giant tortoises are more fun to see in Santa Cruz and the lava tunnels on private farms are lit which many prefer. The breeding center on Isabela is worthy and the only place to see the flat top species, several of which were air-lifted when Cerro Azul last erupted and their shells certainly bear the scars today. Campo Duro after Sierra Negra is a great place for lunch (all organic gardens on site) as well as a half-way house for tortoises, most of which are teenagers,though there is one giant male. Nearby Cuevas de Sucre is an unlit lava tunnel surrounded by a rainforest only found in southern Isabela, so bring a flashlight. Towards Muro De Lagrimas, you usually spot tortoises in the wild.

I just got back from doing a few day dives followed by Wolf & Darwin and going with 3 guests to Isabela for 4 Nights. One, a truly humorous dive instructor/marine biologist said he thoroughly expected to be disappointed by Los Tuneles because of how much I had built it up. He was not only not disappointed, but...as almost everyone who goes there is...was in awe.

The guys seemed to think that Isabela almost equaled the experience of Wolf & Darwin...granted, apples and oranges, but as one said, "It would have been a tragedy to miss."