G10 + wp-dc28 + YS-110a

[saavedl]

For the moment I have a Ixus 60 + it's canon case (don't remember the name) and I'm not entirely satisfied with it, mainly for three reasons:
I. lack of raw and questionable overall image quality (although I managed to squeeze some nice pics from it. See ww.photocritiq.com/folders?userid=234;setid=1849)
II. not as wide as I like it
III. lack of manual control which basically is the only mode I use in land with my other photographic gear.

I am seriously considering this combo: G10 + wp-dc28 + YS-110a. My short experience with the other tells me that incorporated flash is pretty much useless for anything different than a true macro. My question is, can this strobe work in ttl mode using this combo and a fiber optic cable or it would require an electric connection for that? in case of yes, could the strobe work together with the built in flash of the camera (slave) by attaching the cable to a small portion of the diffuser and leaving the rest of the area free? I've seen on many posts fellows attaching their cables and blocking with tape any residual light coming from the camera, why is that?

any input on this combo or alternatives is also more than welcome

Thanks

 

[Warmwater Wank]

Saavedl--This is the most wonderful combo ever put underwater...but I suppose I could be saying that because it's the same setup I have. No, you don't get TTL w/ a fiber optic cable on it but so what? Use it in manual, it's simple and after a few shots you'll hardly pay attention to adjustments. I mean the shutter speed is left alone (unless you are working further than 4-5 feet I suppose). The f/stops I usually keep around f/5.6 or f/8. Really all you tend to adjust is flash output, very easy on a YS110A. Given the RAW file shooting capability (which is a significant plus) even underexposing 1-1.5 stops is no major problem for correction.

When you say "electric connection" you need to know there is no strobe connection bulkhead on the housing, so FO is the only practical way to trigger the strobe (any strobe). The reason you would block the camera strobe is to avoid backscatter as well as any shadowing that the housing produces when you aren't zoomed out and/or shooting macro.

When I used this setup for the first time, shooting in Manual, I got good pics on the first dive and things only got better as I used it more. I'm saying this because many folks get needlessly concerned about shooting manually, as if it's a real challenge--it's not. You have more control and can easily adjust exposures for more dynamic effects than TTL gives. I'm not knocking TTL but it just isn't a "must have" option to take good pics uw.

The YS110A is a very solid strobe choice, just buy some good NiMH rechargeables for it. Plenty of power, only slightly negative bouyancy uw, fast recycle,wide coverage (105degrees H/V), aim light--what's not to like? Get a good arm and tray setup for it and you are set. (I got mine from NYXELL on eBay. Gilligan who posts a lot of great pics on Canon Corner, shows a photo of the arm/tray in his signature block.)

I was joking about this being "the most wonderful combo ever" but it is a very solid choice at a reasonable cost (an important qualifier!). Get it and then go dive with it--you'll really enjoy it. Oh, hey--welcome to ScubaBoard! // ww

ps--The attch'd are all from my first dive trip w/ this setup, all shot on Bonaire in April.

 

[Puffer Fish]

Saavedl--This is the most wonderful combo ever put underwater...but I suppose I could be saying that because it's the same setup I have. No, you don't get TTL w/ a fiber optic cable on it but so what? Use it in manual, it's simple and after a few shots you'll hardly pay attention to adjustments. I mean the shutter speed is left alone (unless you are working further than 4-5 feet I suppose). The f/stops I usually keep around f/5.6 or f/8. Really all you tend to adjust is flash output, very easy on a YS110A. Given the RAW file shooting capability (which is a significant plus) even underexposing 1-1.5 stops is no major problem for correction.

When you say "electric connection" you need to know there is no strobe connection bulkhead on the housing, so FO is the only practical way to trigger the strobe (any strobe). The reason you would block the camera strobe is to avoid backscatter as well as any shadowing that the housing produces when you aren't zoomed out and/or shooting macro.

When I used this setup for the first time, shooting in Manual, I got good pics on the first dive and things only got better as I used it more. I'm saying this because many folks get needlessly concerned about shooting manually, as if it's a real challenge--it's not. You have more control and can easily adjust exposures for more dynamic effects than TTL gives. I'm not knocking TTL but it just isn't a "must have" option to take good pics uw.

The YS110A is a very solid strobe choice, just buy some good NiMH rechargeables for it. Plenty of power, only slightly negative bouyancy uw, fast recycle,wide coverage (105degrees H/V), aim light--what's not to like? Get a good arm and tray setup for it and you are set. (I got mine from NYXELL on eBay. Gilligan who posts a lot of great pics on Canon Corner, shows a photo of the arm/tray in his signature block.)

I was joking about this being "the most wonderful combo ever" but it is a very solid choice at a reasonable cost (an important qualifier!). Get it and then go dive with it--you'll really enjoy it. Oh, hey--welcome to ScubaBoard! // ww

ps--The attch'd are all from my first dive trip w/ this setup, all shot on Bonaire in April.

Almost all I shoot is with the TTL system (and I actually will say it is the best, most wonderful combo ever)..you have to set the range the strobe will work in (turn down the power range as you take closer shots), but it works amazingly well.

Some pics from last weekend:

Ok the last one was from the week before.

All shot in TTL mode..

 

[Puffer Fish]

Saavedl--This is the most wonderful combo ever put underwater...but I suppose I could be saying that because it's the same setup I have. No, you don't get TTL w/ a fiber optic cable on it but so what? Use it in manual, it's simple and after a few shots you'll hardly pay attention to adjustments. I mean the shutter speed is left alone (unless you are working further than 4-5 feet I suppose). The f/stops I usually keep around f/5.6 or f/8. Really all you tend to adjust is flash output, very easy on a YS110A. Given the RAW file shooting capability (which is a significant plus) even underexposing 1-1.5 stops is no major problem for correction.

When you say "electric connection" you need to know there is no strobe connection bulkhead on the housing, so FO is the only practical way to trigger the strobe (any strobe). The reason you would block the camera strobe is to avoid backscatter as well as any shadowing that the housing produces when you aren't zoomed out and/or shooting macro.

When I used this setup for the first time, shooting in Manual, I got good pics on the first dive and things only got better as I used it more. I'm saying this because many folks get needlessly concerned about shooting manually, as if it's a real challenge--it's not. You have more control and can easily adjust exposures for more dynamic effects than TTL gives. I'm not knocking TTL but it just isn't a "must have" option to take good pics uw.

The YS110A is a very solid strobe choice, just buy some good NiMH rechargeables for it. Plenty of power, only slightly negative bouyancy uw, fast recycle,wide coverage (105degrees H/V), aim light--what's not to like? Get a good arm and tray setup for it and you are set. (I got mine from NYXELL on eBay. Gilligan who posts a lot of great pics on Canon Corner, shows a photo of the arm/tray in his signature block.)

I was joking about this being "the most wonderful combo ever" but it is a very solid choice at a reasonable cost (an important qualifier!). Get it and then go dive with it--you'll really enjoy it. Oh, hey--welcome to ScubaBoard! // ww

ps--The attch'd are all from my first dive trip w/ this setup, all shot on Bonaire in April.

By the way, love the trunkfish picture...and the others are not bad.

 

[kenz0]

ps--The attch'd are all from my first dive trip w/ this setup, all shot on Bonaire in April.

Nice. Newbie here, How do you do this black background shots? Is this nightdiving? Can u do this with extreme flash during the day?

Sorry i dont know how to add thumbnails =))

 

[Warmwater Wank]

K--Nope, it's a daytime shot done w/ a high shutter speed. Unlike available light shots w/out a strobe, using a strobe is what determines exposure and, since this thread is referring to a relatively high output strobe like the YS110A, we are talking about a big jolt of light--but for a very brief instant. You are basing the exposure then on strobe output, distance from the flash and ISO (I shoot at 100 ISO), so you really only need to adjust f/stops and flash output--the shutter speed can stay where you want it.

With a high shutter speed (say 1/1000th of a sec or higher) the ambient or available light has very little impact on the shot, since the higher you set the shutter speed the less time the weaker background light is hitting the sensor for. Meanwhile the strobe has walloped the scene at several thousandths to tens of thousandths of a second, which is why you can get away w/ a fast shutter speed. The same amount of light still hits the sensor. If you shot a series, using real slow shutter speeds, on up to what your particuliar camera synchs at, the part lit by the stobe would not look any lighter or darker. The background however (what ever is lit by available light) would look progressivey darker, just like it would if you weren't using a strobe.

If you have any nearby background it does bounce back some light, so this works best when there is only the water column behind your subject or distant objects. I did crop out some nearby objects that showed at the side but most of the scene was a backgound of open water. BTW, Puffer put up some beautiful shots. Very nice work Puffer, sorry I haven't been around to see it sooner! // ww

 

[kenz0]

WWW-- Thanks.

@ All: So is there like a socket or hole on where to install ur FO wire on Canon's housing (WPDC28) to your YS110A? Or is it a DIY thingy?

 

[Warmwater Wank]

KO--No, no sockets. Most folks just use some velcro and lash down the fiber optic cord in front of the camera flash area on the housing. You want to easily remove the cord whenever you separate the strobe assembly and housing but you also want it to definitely stay in place on a dive. Do a search on this forum--there are some kits available but electronics stores also sell a clear based velcro sort of material (get plastic, not cloth--lasts and holds better underwater).

Set the camera to forced flash at it's minimal output setting. Oh, I found out you can slice the fiber optic cord at a diagonal (easily done w/ an Exacto knife) to expose more of the fiber optic line that actually picks up the light impulse. That way I have no problems mounting the cord flat against the housing and never have strobe failure problems. // ww

 

[Puffer Fish]

I made one with a small block of black rubber about 5/8 of an inch thick.. which I cut to completely cover the strobe and then drillied a hole for the fiber optic cable. Attached using some comercial double sided waterproof tape....works really well and has been very sturdy (although I made two just in case)...if you use TTL setting, one has to keep as much outside light as possible from the cable... or it will turn the strobe on, but not get the off signal.. resulting in major over exposure...

 

[kenz0]

Thanks man, and yes i love hendrix \m/