Fisheye lens and strobe positioning - Argh!

[Storker]

I've had my fisheye lens for about a year now and anticipated a bit of a learning curve going from a rectilinear WA zoom to FE. But now I'm getting a little annoyed. My CFWAs turn out decently after a few tries to position the strobes correctly (arms tucked a bit in, strobes behind the housing and angled a bit outwards). However, I struggle to find a good position for the strobes for WA shots at a little distance. Most shots come out with very visible backscatter on the sides, like a flashlight in heavy fog.

My diving is generally in half-decent to poor-ish viz (typically 4 to 8 meters), so it might just be that the water is too murky for that kind of shots, but I'm not quite ready to give up. Tips are appreciated.

BTW, my setup is:
Olympus OM-D E-M5 in a Nauticam NA-EM5 housing, Flexitray with two handles
Panasonic 8mm/3.5 in the Nauticam 4.33" dome port
Two Inon Z240 with stock diffusers on 5" + 7" arms

 

[MaxBottomtime]

I have the same issue in dirty water. Sometimes I'll crank up the ISO so the strobes don't need to be as powerful. In theory it works, but I've been unable to prove the theory.

 

[JackConnick]

Probably set wider, maybe with longer arms and angle further out and turn up the power.
Shooting against a background, or turning off one strobe can help.
In really bad viz I've seen people turn their strobes heads around, and turn them up to full and let the gritty water work as a light umbrella.
There's more in our free Strobe Positioning Handbook.

 

[Nemrod]

Diffusers can help but the father away from the lens the strobe(s) are the better.

N