Finally Going to GBR and NZ

[gpenner]

I'm finally going to dive the GBR and will leave North Carolina USA on 3.23.06 to arrive in Cairns two days later. I have only one week there and would like to dive as much as possible. What would be the best way to find a really good accommodation/dive package that would also include a live aboard this time of year? Is it really better to wait until I get there or should I try to piece something together and book over the net? What's the best way to get around once I get to the airport and how tough is the jet lag?

I get to go to Aukland NZ from 4.1.06 for one week and have hopes to dive at the Poor Knights Islands. I have the same questions for that week also...Any do's and don'ts on this adventure? I'm traveling by myself on this trip...
Thanks,
Guenther

 

[AndyNZ]

Hi Guenther - got your PM as well, will post up some recommendations tomorrow from work when I've got more time. Even with just a week, you'll have an awesome time.

 

[donnyb]

Poor Knights were awesome, went with Dive Tutukaka and they did a wonderful job.
Be aware the ride out & back can be a bit lumpy, so if you are susceptible to seasickness, bring your favorite treatment. FYI they sell a product in Oz & NZ called "Quells" which is oral scopalamine. Worked great for me. Available over the counter in most every pharmacy. The tabs are scored & I found I only need half of one. The water temps are a lot cooler there than GBR so you will have to consider two wetsuits, one for the warmer waters of the GBR, one for the temperate water in NZ...

I lived in Oz for a while and dove a lot, day boats and liveaboard. Be aware there is a LOT of variability in the quality of the operators. Would definitely recommend the liveaboard route, as the day boats are truly cattle boats, and do not venture far. The typical day diving is done at a specific mooring that has a platform anchored over a reef. The reef itself is usually pretty beat up. There are still lots of cool things to see, but it does not look pristene if you know what I mean. The viz also degrades quickly due to the boat props spinning as they maneuver alongside the platform, and the zillion snorkelers who splash in. Best strategy is to be first in the water. The better liveaboards can get you far north and the diving is much better, wilder, and less impacted from the eco tourists. Most first timers to the GBR are disappointed, because they expected it to be all pretty and unbroken. If you can get mentally past that, there is a lot to see, the whole food chain is happening, including the big predators. Usually you get what you pay for so avoid the really cheap operators. If you can afford the Coral Sea trip and it fits into your schedule, it would be a better option, but, technically, its not the GBR...

Cairns itself is very nice, the waterfront park is lovely. The airport is north of town and I would recommend a taxi hire to take you into town. If you are comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road, there are some cheap car rental places in Cairns, and you can rent a car as needed. But it is fine walking around in Cairns. Wide range of pricing for accommodation, good restraunts, a night market, etc. Also check out the "Cock & Bull" pub, great fun and good aussie folks there.

 

[Darnold9999]

The jet lag is pretty serious unless you can actually sleep on the crossing - recommend drugs to knock you out. Cairns is a pretty young crowd, Port Douglas a little more upscale and a bit older. Not as many singles, but the ones there are older. We stayed in Palm Cove a little more upscale again - just north of Cairns. Pretty quiet for a single however. Paradise on the Beach was the hotel - really nice people to deal with.

No question, do the liveaboard. If you just have a week the fly/dive Mike Ball might be a really good option as it is either fly from Cairns to Lizard Island and moter back diving all the way, or dive all the way from Cairns to Lizard Island and fly back. Coral Sea better yet, but I seem to recall that this is a full week trip.

The day boats are OK, but they are cattle boats and the reefs are a bit beaten up. Diving out of Port Douglas is a bit better as you get a bit further north.

Booking in Cairns at the last minute will save you money if you can bargian - lots of trips going for 30 40% off the internet price a couple days in advance. However you may not get the trip you wanted and may have to settle for something else. You do truly get what you pay for. Booking in advance will ensure a spot but cost more. If I am going all that way for only a week I think I would spend the money and get my first choice.

If you are not diving rent a car - driving on the wrong side is not an issue pretty quickly. However drinking and driving is a really bad idea as you will forget the wrong side really quickly. The hills above Cairns are interesting, Japikai (sp) and the cable car ride up and over the "mountian" is worth a visit, and the dawn balloon ride is worth it if you have never been hot air balooning. A drive up the coast into the rain forest is also a good thing to do.

 

[AndyNZ]

OK, finally got a bit more time....

On the jet lag front, it's not that bad coming here from the US. Just make sure you don't take an afternoon nap on your first day of arrival, have as late as night as you can and a couple of beers. Normally next day you're then fine. But watch out for the return journey, which is normally a killer. It takes me 4 or 5 days on a trip to the US to settle into the right time zone!

Jet lag probably won't be an issue for us in NZ if you get over it in Aus. It's only a two hour time difference and a four hour flight. Not a big deal.

For diving the Poor Knights, I definitely second the Dive! Tutukaka option (www.diving.co.nz)- they are the best operator for visiting divers and will treat you well. Their rental gear is well maintained and would save you carting around two wetsuits. Expect water temperatures around the 17-19 degC mark in NZ at the beginning of April. We're already starting to cool off for winter.

To get to Tutukaka from Auckland, you've got two options - hire a car or get a bus to Whangarei. A quick note on Maori pronounciation.... this is pronounced Fvung-a-ray! Dive! Tuts offer a free (I think) pick up service from Whangarei. Accomodation boils down to the motor lodge in Ngunguru (incidently, the fish and chip shop here does the best mussel fritters in the world) or the holiday camp in Tutukaka itself.

Dive! Tuts only do day trips, which really is the most flexible option. If you want to look into liveaboards your two options are Pacific Hideaway (http://www.divenz.co.nz/) or Ocean Blue (http://www.oceanblue.co.nz/). They kind of suit different markets - Ocean Blue is a bit more of a luxury operation and there is nothing about the Poor Knights that Glen Edney doesn't know! Saying that, Mark and Denise who run Pacific Hideaway are also very knowledgeable and a great laugh. Both of these boats fill up real quick, so book in advance.

To be honest, a week straight of diving the PKs would probably start to get a bit samey! I'd definitely look into diving some other areas as well. A week is going to be a bit tight to see more than two areas, though, so I'd suggest a Northland focus including a trip out to the Rainbow Warrior - one of my favourite dives in NZ! For a RW trip, the best option is probably going out with Gary from the Matouri Bay campground but you might find that he isn't able to guide depending on how many people he has on his boat etc. It's a 15 minute boat ride from Matouri Bay as opposed to at least an hour for the other charter options based in Paihia. Paihia dive have recently bought a new boat and I've heard bad things about it - fast, but no tank racks and a pig to dive from. Have a look at going out with Dive North (www.divenorth.co.nz) if Gary can't guide you on the RW.