Fiberglas maintenance

[TSandM]

I spent three hours scrubbing my boat this afternoon. Down on my hands and knees, AFTER I used the household floor scrubber. And it still doesn't look like it did when I bought it.

I have come to the conclusion that either: 1) The man who owned the boat before us never used it even once, or 2) that labor is so cheap that the boat broker hired someone to go from bow to stern with Comet and a toothbrush, or 3) there have got to be better products for cleaning boats than the ones I am using.

I am trying to deal with: grey scratches from tanks on the hull. Grey smudges and red stains from tanks on the sole. Big grey smudges all over the place, but concentrated toward the stern, where the two stroke oil-burning engine is. And black deposits in the non-skid that look like mildew, but are some kind of stain from people's feet, I think.

Anybody have some good recommendations for how to keep the boat looking like somebody cares?

 

[divinginn]

purple power cleaning stuff worked for me.

 

[Charlie99]

For mildew, algae stains, barnacles and other marine growth I've found that "On & Off" does a pretty good job. It's nasty corrosive stuff, but it doesn't seem to damage fiberglass. It doesn't remove all of rust stains, but does get most of it off. Available at West Marine and other boating supply shops.

While you are getting the On & Off, check out the various fiberglass cleaner and wax combos, as well as the more agressive rubbing compounds. These are good at removing the oxidation/powdery sort of film that will form with time and sun exposure. The rubbing compounds should also get the tank and paint scuffs off. Then the fiberglass polish will make the gelcoat of the fiberglass nice and shiny again.

Since my sailboat doesn't have motor, I haven't had to attack oil and soot stains, but my bet is that On & Off will work.

My most labor-saving recommendation is to "lower your standards".
I used to try and get the very last bit of stains and stuff off my boat. Nowdays if a stain isn't going to come out, I just leave it alone.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

My most labor-saving recommendation is to "lower your standards".
I used to try and get the very last bit of stains and stuff off my boat. Nowdays if a stain isn't going to come out, I just leave it alone.

Yeah throw some rubber matts down on the deck and don't worry about the scuffs. Dive boats get beat up with tanks. also the gray marks are probably lead streaks from uncoated lead. If you worry about that, then mandate vinyl covered lead or shot weights.

 

[DennisS]

Try a good scrubbing with a long handled, hard bristled scrub brush and bleach. Let it dry in the sun and then rinse and scrub.

Soot and oil can be attacked by sparingly using go-jo hand cleaner on small areas, it will look dull aftewards because you've removed the wax.

Keep the comet and ajax away from your fiberglass, if you look at an angle in the right light you'll see very fine scratches. There are special abrasive fiberglass cleaners that polish, not scratch.

 

[TSandM]

gray marks are probably lead streaks from uncoated lead.

I don't think so. Most of the people diving on the boat are either using soft weights or no weight at all. I don't know what the broad, grey smudges are, but they seem to be something oily.

Charlie, I think you have the right idea (so does Peter). And DumpsterDiver, I keep trying to find some kind of useful matting to protect the sole from damage, but what we've tried so far has been too slippery and rucks up when you try to move tanks around on it.

I've lived with a messy and not particularly clean house for twenty years, but this is MY boat, and I would really like to have it sparkling clean when I can. (BTW, I haven't resorted to Comet, but I had contemplated it.) Peter was laughing at me for scrubbing the engine and the propeller shaft today, but that's just how I am.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Lynne,

Fiberglass and gel coat repairs are what I do for a living.
To get those abrasion marks out is no big deal. Unless your gel is deeply scratched or gouged all those stains and even light scratches and dulling are superficial. Before you do the following, make absolutely certain that the finish is gel coat and not paint.

The first thing I'd do is take a clean rag with some acetone on it and wipe down the areas that have marks. 9 out of 10 times this will get most stuff off with the first wipe. Don't worry, fiberglass and gel are impervious to acetone.
Next I would take some rubbing compound (3M super duty) to the really dull areas or places that are marked up the worst. After you work it with the super duty go over it with 3M Perfect-it 3000 regular compound (Auto Body supply store) This stuff will really make the shine come out. After that keep a good layer of boat wax on it rich in carnuba and you'll keep it nice for years. The other thing to make gel last is to keep it covered and out of the sun the best possible.

And if you have a buffer it makes the job much quicker and easier. If you're doing it by hand be prepared for very sore shoulders and elbows. Most people go through this once then get a buffer or hire a boat detailer. ;-)

BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand)

 

[TSandM]

Thank you, ZKY. I will go get some of the products you describe. It is all fiberglas, no paint. The outside of the hull is in beautiful condition, and cleans up nicely. It's the sole and the gunwales that get marked up and stained.

 

[Scubakevdm]

I use Softscrub with bleach for the oily smudges, then Snow-bowl toilet cleaner for rust stains. If you use either, you should wax after a very thorough rinsing.

There's also some stuff you should know about using the toilet cleaner. When it hits the rust stain, it will turn it green. Let it sit for a bit, but make sure to rinse it off while it's still wet, or it will turn purple, and you'll only be able to lift the stain with more toilet cleaner. I do spots full strength, and then apply a water diluted mixture evenly to the whole boat with a scrub brush. By the way, this is an acid, a fairly strong one, so take appropriate precautions and read the warnings. Also, it will dissolve concrete. I don't know if your boat is trailered or not, or what kind of a driveway you have.

 

[Nemrod]

I wouldn't use Comet on my boat, a boat is not a bath tub though some may look like one. The Comet is very abrasive. There are a number of boat specific products for removing stains from the exterior and interior, any marine catalog/store is full of them. A good wax containing PFT and or carnuba can be applied afterwards, large areas require a power buffer which is available cheap from most stores for automobiles. Do not get the 12 volt kind, get one for AC current, about 50 dollars.

As to dents and scratches on the deck and places, Dri Dek protects my deck and I keep a small piece of indoor/outdoor carpet to toss over the gunwales when using heavy tanks. I also REQUIRE the use of tank BOOTS on my boat, sorry, as you can see, repairing the damage unbooted tanks cause is a PITA and the people who refuse to use a tank boot are never around to help clean and repair, don't care what the gurus think about boots.

I also had carpeted snap in pads made that replace cushioned seats and cover other heavy wear areas that snap in for diving expiditions and snap out for pleasure boating for the original seat cushions etc.

Also, do not scrub the engine and propeller with abrasive cleaners, do not put oil on the anodes, use a metal polish on the prop if it is stainless, if it is not stainless then you need one that is, lol.

A ship shape boat is a happy boat.

N