F stop/Shutter speed reciprocity

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Scotttyd

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I remember seeing a list that showed F-Stop/shutter speed combinations that had the same exposure.
Ex F 5.6/ 1/100th
F 4 1/200th -
does anyone have a link of a list, I am trying to put together a cheat sheet while I try to learn manual photo.

thanks
 
After doing a little reading, this is what I came up with to answer my question, am I even close to being right:


F8 / 1/60th
F5.6 / 1/125th
F4 / 1/250th
F2 / 1/500th
 
I remember seeing a list that showed F-Stop/shutter speed combinations that had the same exposure.
Ex F 5.6/ 1/100th
F 4 1/200th -
does anyone have a link of a list, I am trying to put together a cheat sheet while I try to learn manual photo.

thanks

Do not you have a "P" mode on the camera :wink: ? That's the reason I like this mode on my D80.
 
There really is no better training that going out and physically shooting, but I think you are smart to try what you are. Here are a couple of sites that simply help you to better understand how each of the four settings (ISO, Exposure setting, Aperature and Shutter Speed) impact each other. Sorry it is not what you need but hopefully you can find some use in the site anyways.

Camera Settings
http://dryreading.com/camera/

Depth of field calculator
Online Depth of Field Calculator
 
Last edited:
After doing a little reading, this is what I came up with to answer my question, am I even close to being right:


F8 / 1/60th
F5.6 / 1/125th
F4 / 1/250th
F2 / 1/500th

You know this only valid for some particular ISO and some particular light situation. It is preferable to use the built in exposure-meter as if the cam is digital the sensor is very easy to overexpose unlike the film. Film can give you better margin for error. With digital it's too easy to get overexposure which will wash out the colors.
 
You know this only valid for some particular ISO and some particular light situation. It is preferable to use the built in exposure-meter as if the cam is digital the sensor is very easy to overexpose unlike the film. Film can give you better margin for error. With digital it's too easy to get overexposure which will wash out the colors.


Remember though that the exposure meter will be of no use underwater because a strobe (or additional lighting of some sort) is a requirement in most cases. The exposure meter, while a great tool for topside shooting, becomes useless underwater because it will not correct itself to compensate for the flash/strobe. Or at least the Canon Rebel XSi will not (I have this camera for topside only and shoot Nikon P&S and also video underwater).

So, it is still important to do what the OP is doing and learn what is good for different settings. Just remember that all rules change IMO underwater. Light travels differently, macro versus WA etc.
 
You've received some good advice already and some good links where you can read up but I thought I'd throw in another comment.

Try looking around for information on the "exposure triangle". Basically what it means is that there are three factors that affect the exposure of your image, shutter speed, aperture and film sensitivity (or in the case of digital cameras, the ISO setting).

In essence, to maintain the same exposure (I'm not talking about depth of field etc, just the amount by which the image is exposed), you need to double one of these values if you half either of the other. For example, if you half the shutter speed, you need to double the aperture (or double the ISO). Another example, if you double the aperture, you need to half the shutter speed (or half the ISO).

Fortunately, just about all cameras have these three settings configurable in multiples of themselves. What I mean by that is that you can set the ISO value to 100, 200, 400, 800 etc. You see how each value is double the previous value? The same goes for shutter speed and the same goes for shutter speed and aperture.

With aperture it might not be obvious but f/2.8 really is double f/4. That is because the f-number denotes the diameter size of the aperture and an aperture that is twice the size of another would not have twice the diameter of the other. I can explain using maths but I think you get the idea.

Anyways, lots of rambling, I just wanted to point out that there are three parameters that determine the level of exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO) and a doubling of one necessitates a halving of any other one in order to maintain constant exposure.

Hope that helps.
 
After doing a little reading, this is what I came up with to answer my question, am I even close to being right:


F8 / 1/60th
F5.6 / 1/125th
F4 / 1/250th
F2 / 1/500th

you were close, here's the corrected list

F8 / 1/60th
F5.6 / 1/125th
F4 / 1/250th
F2.8 / 1/500th
F2 / 1/1000th
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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