I have a epl1 that I intend to convert into a diving camera, but I'm new to underwater photography. I'm planning on getting the pt-ep01 housing with 14-42 zoom gear, and the sea and sea 110a with sea arm vii compact. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is everything all compatible? The sea arm vii looks like it is discontinued, is there anything that might be better for future upgrades if i decide to add another strobe?
epl1 setup help
- Thread starter navyasw02
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Navy
Have a look through this
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/un...techniques-rebates-deals-look-here-first.html
It will give you all sorts of tips on where to start. The kit lens is a compromise but OK to start with.
Understand that water is your enemy with both wideangle and macro. Get as close to your subject as you can then half the distance and you are still to far away.
Buoyancy you need to be able to control both your depth and your attitude in the water column. You will be surprised how many photos are taken head down and feet up. Practise going backwards, practise sinking and rising using only your lungs, no movement. Practise staying completely still, breathing shallow and see where you end up.
The task loading when taking photographs is considerable the divingpart has to be automatic.
Last but by no means least. When you are taking photos you are a rubbish buddy. No matter how hard you try it is impossible to do both well. Warn your buddy in advance. If you are diving in a group then it's quite likely that you will loose them. If visibility is poor and you don't know the dive site then you will, almost certainly, get lost. Decide in advance with your buddy what you are going to do in this situation and STICK with that decision.
Have great fun, it is an addictave hobby.
Have a look through this
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/un...techniques-rebates-deals-look-here-first.html
It will give you all sorts of tips on where to start. The kit lens is a compromise but OK to start with.
Understand that water is your enemy with both wideangle and macro. Get as close to your subject as you can then half the distance and you are still to far away.
Buoyancy you need to be able to control both your depth and your attitude in the water column. You will be surprised how many photos are taken head down and feet up. Practise going backwards, practise sinking and rising using only your lungs, no movement. Practise staying completely still, breathing shallow and see where you end up.
The task loading when taking photographs is considerable the divingpart has to be automatic.
Last but by no means least. When you are taking photos you are a rubbish buddy. No matter how hard you try it is impossible to do both well. Warn your buddy in advance. If you are diving in a group then it's quite likely that you will loose them. If visibility is poor and you don't know the dive site then you will, almost certainly, get lost. Decide in advance with your buddy what you are going to do in this situation and STICK with that decision.
Have great fun, it is an addictave hobby.
deeper thoughts
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I have the 9-18mm and zen port and it is fantastic. Really cant compare the lens quality to the 14-42
smoore
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I would also recommend getting an underwater leak detector for your set-up. I purchased one for my EPL2 from this Australian website and it works well. Underwater Camera Housing Leak Detector - Underwater Camera Housing Leak Detector - Home Page
Very difficult question.
I don't know how close you can focus with the 9-18 for macro shots.
Will this restrict you on a dive?
Are wet lenses a better option? You can change your options as the dive progresses depending what you find.
I don't think I am the best person to answer this question, I am going through the same quandry just now..
The best would be to try before you buy. Maybe it is possible to rent the combination even if it is only a pool session.
Take some toy animals as subjects.
Low light affects autofocus and you won't be able to test that in a pool.
The closest you can focus with the 9-18mm lens is about .25meters so does not make a great Macro Lens. People are getting excellent results with the kit 14-42mm lens using external +5-+16 diopters.
Note that the Sea&Sea 110a has been discontinued and will be hard to find. It is being replaced by the new YS-D1 which looks very promising. Given shops are just getting them now they will be in short supply for awhile.
Here is an example of a very popular package for the E series of Oly housings. You can upgrade the strobe, focus light and add more arm parts. Of course Two strobes will give you significantly better results, especially when used with the 9-18mm lens and Zen Pen Dome port. Hope that helps.
Optical Ocean Olympus PT-EP03 System - Olympus m4/3rds PEN Cameras, Housings & Accessories - Optical Ocean Sales Underwater Photo - 800-359-1295!
Note that the Sea&Sea 110a has been discontinued and will be hard to find. It is being replaced by the new YS-D1 which looks very promising. Given shops are just getting them now they will be in short supply for awhile.
Here is an example of a very popular package for the E series of Oly housings. You can upgrade the strobe, focus light and add more arm parts. Of course Two strobes will give you significantly better results, especially when used with the 9-18mm lens and Zen Pen Dome port. Hope that helps.
Optical Ocean Olympus PT-EP03 System - Olympus m4/3rds PEN Cameras, Housings & Accessories - Optical Ocean Sales Underwater Photo - 800-359-1295!
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If you already have the camera and are planning to get the Olympus pt-ep01 housing then it doesn't cost you any more to start with the kit lens because the standard port comes with the housing. This will give you a chance to practice shooting underwater and see what style of photography suits your preferences and usual diving conditions. I'm also very new to this and started with the EPL-3 with the kit lens which I use for my weekly shore dive in generally rubbish vis but I'm using the Nauticam housing. More recently I added the Panasonic 8mm fisheye which I love but so far I've only used it for an away trip in much better vis (20m).
I'm not sure if the strobe you are considering has a focus light. If not it might be worth considering one, I've found mine has been really useful for things like eels hiding in the shadows or holes. It really makes a difference in enabling the camera to focus. There is tons of spirited debate on focus lights in the forums which is worth reading before you make a decision. I use the fix LED1000DX, the battery lasts ages, the beam is adjustable and it doesn't cause backscatter.
Hope this helps
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