E520, PT-E05, & UFL2 (TTL use)???

[R-subsea]

Hi guys,

I have been through a bit of frustration with the following set up. E520, PT-E05 (housing), & UFL-2 strobes (FO sync cables).

I have searched and searched for answers that already may exist, but have been unlucky in finding what I am looking for. Was hoping I may have my questions answered here.

Are these strobes not TTL with the E520? (If they are, would someone please explain to me how it works?)

Is there any way to connect these strobes via normal sync cables to the Oly PT-E05 housing?

My problem is I have tried everything I can think of, but getting a properly exposed photograph on the first shot is difficult (unless I am shooting the same condition for every shot). Its really doing my head in. I am at the point to buy the cables, etc and start splicing if I have to to make them work. But not sure about the actual penetrators and connectors matching up.

Correct me if I am wrong, but firing the strobes through the F.O. cables aren't TTL. That is merely a trigger, correct? So the strobe power has to be set manually for use with the E520???

It has me a bit confused. And I am very put off for even continuing to dive with the kit, as setting the power manually for every shot is time consuming and annoying.

Thanks!

 

[Sail Rock Diver]

did you try the RC mode on the camera setting? set the RC mode on the cam. to on

here a link

www.scribd.com/doc/22794345/Olympus-E-520-Instruction-Manual

page 76

 

[R-subsea]

Cheers dude... I am guessing these strobes work through RC underwater? I have tried the RC mode previously, but I guess I failed to set up the groups properly. Gonna have to read more about that. I wouldn't have thought RC works underwater, but I obviously am wrong about that, LOL. I use studio strobes above water, so never a need to mess with RC. I am away from home and equipment for the next week and unable to download the manuals, because of a very bad internet connection (offshore in the Gulf of Thailand). Guess I need to get a tank and head to the pool and just sit down and experiment for a few hours until I am getting consitent results. What company do you dive with SailROck Diver?? I am in Koh Toa from the 6th of Aug to the 10th of Aug. Wasnt going to do any diving, but you never know. Robin

 

[Sail Rock Diver]

are you in the golf of thailand ??? i stay on kohphangan ;-) i work for the dive inn kohphangan chaloklum

The Dive Inn | A Deeper Understanding

The Dive Inn - Koh Phangan - Reviews of The Dive Inn - TripAdvisor

 

[R-subsea]

Yeah mate, offshore in the Gulf of Thailand. Oil and Gas, work in ROV. I stay in Pattaya. But will be going to Koh Tao for a chill out session. Diving good this time of year in the area?

---------- Post Merged at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:18 AM ----------

Also, managed to download all the manuals last night... Think I have a better understanding of it now. Think I just went on a rant. Sorry guys. LOL

 

[Sail Rock Diver]

yes should be good but the wetter changes all the time should be calm and clear. in but right now we have about 3-5m at sail rock.

i guess koh tao is a bit better hope it get back to normal soon

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

R-subsea,

I have attached a part of an article I did on the E-520, PT-E05 and the UFL-2 strobe for a dive magazine. The strobe can be fired in TTL using fiber optic cords or using the Olympus five pin cord to the Olympus style bulkhead on the housing. A five pin pigtail cord is needed inside the housing between bulkhead mount and the hot shoe on the camera. I have two if you are interested, part number is PHCB-01 hot shoe cable $29.95. Don't know that you will be able to find this part as they are scarce.

The hard wired cord allows all of the auto functions to work just like they would on the FL-36 land strobe, like beam angle zoom. With fiber cables these things need to be done in manual with button pushes.

THE NEW UFL-2 ELECTRONIC FLASH-copyright Phil Rudin

Along with the PT-E05 housing Olympus has also introduced a new underwater strobe the UFL-2 which has a depth rating of 197 feet, (60 meters). This flash can be fired via fiber optic cords in TTL using the internal camera flash and fiber optic ports built into the housing. It can also be fired in manual mode and with the proprietary wired cables used for the Olympus land flash housings. The beam angle of the flash can be zoomed in and out like an Olympus land strobe. The maximum guide number is 32 at the narrow beam angle, think macro. As the beam spreads for wider lenses the guide number is reduced much like the land strobe. If the strobe is hard wired to the housing it will zoom automatically as your lens is zoomed in and out. With the fiber optic cables the strobe is zoomed manually on the rear command panel of the strobe. Set to the RC mode and used with fiber optic cords twin strobe lighting ratios can be set and used in TTL. The key #1 strobe can be set to TTL and the #2 strobe can be set to TTL minus a stop or two of light. The number of different lighting ratios which can be set is endless, as with a land flash allowing for endless studio type lighting effects. The strobe is powered by two AA sized batteries which will produce about 250 flashes per charge at full power. These strobes are on the fat side and as a result I found that a single strobe offset the weight of the housing, camera, lens, arm and dome port and became about three ounces positive in fresh water with the 14 to 42 zoom lens. In salt water the unit was like a feather to carry and control. The strobe is compatible with the Sea & Sea type mounting accessories and should work well with existing arm systems. The UFL-2 is around $600.00 US street price.

hope this helps,

Phil Rudin

 

[R-subsea]

Hi Phil, thanks for the information.So basically, the only real advantage of the wired connection is the completely auto over just TTL? Correct?I know what you mean about that part being scarce, I have been searching all over, with only a little luck. Lol.I suppose you would only have the option of one strobe if using wired connections ? Or is there a "y" splice cable that allows connectionmof two strobes? Do you happen to know how they react if I were to splice two of outer cables (PTCB-01) together?Do u have all of the appropriate cables, as if you do, then I am interested.

 

[Ardy]

Hi Phil, thanks for the information.So basically, the only real advantage of the wired connection is the completely auto over just TTL? Correct?I know what you mean about that part being scarce, I have been searching all over, with only a little luck. Lol.I suppose you would only have the option of one strobe if using wired connections ? Or is there a "y" splice cable that allows connectionmof two strobes? Do you happen to know how they react if I were to splice two of outer cables (PTCB-01) together?Do u have all of the appropriate cables, as if you do, then I am interested.

R-Subsea - I would suggest you only go cable when all else fails. I moved from using cable for 20 years to FO and would NEVER go back, the lack of cable issues and being able to replace a FO cable in 2 mins is a breeze compared to cable.

I had an issue getting my E-520 to work sTTL with a SnS 110a and a Z-240, eventually I worked out that you must have the internal flash on auto, any other setting will only trigger the strobe and not send the preflash TTL signal out (you can save battery power by setting lower flash output but you only get manual flash).

Once I had worked this out it was dead easy and I built my FO cables for about $1 each.

 

[R-subsea]

Thanks for insight Ardy...Will be sure to make a note of it.