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For CFWA I mostly use the kit lens with the Nauticam WWL-1. This provides a nice wide field of view and the lens allows zoom through and clean corners. The WWL-1 also works very well with the Sigma FFL 19mm lens. Fast and sharp and full 130 degrees FOV.







I sometimes use the little Sony 16mm pancake FFL lens behind the Nauticam 4.3 inches dome. This is very compact. The little 16mm lens has two optional auxiliary lenses, a fisheye and a wide(er) angle. I find the wide angle more useful and cleaner focus. The fisheye shows distortion in corners and does not clean up until about f16. So it would need stronger strobes than I have with my current little Inon S220 strobes.









Currently, for macro, I use the kit lens with the Nauticam CMC1 and 2 and prefer the -2. I am planning to order the new wet mate corrector lens for the kit lens and that will allow me to do normal fish pics, semi-wide angle and macro on the same dive using either the swing out lens holder or bayonet options.

Sony, if you listen here ever, please give me an APS-C Alpha with 1/250 sync or the new global sensor and please, please, please, a short zoom full frame fisheye lens, 8 to 12 range would be really nice. And if it fit in my existing housing even better but I know that is too much to ask for. Oh, and preflash cancel would be nice too.
 
Thanks Nemrod. It looks like I have the same setup as you for the most part. What are your go to settings?
 
Thanks Nemrod. It looks like I have the same setup as you for the most part. What are your go to settings?

I have the UWT LED strobe trigger board but usually do not use it because sometimes it just does not sync. I mostly shoot using the camera built in strobe. I do have several of the (NLA) booster batteries so can run three long dives before charging. I can set the UWT board for no preflash, full manual on strobes and camera. It is useful sometimes.

I generally shoot with my Inon strobes in sTTL mode and camera in manual mode. I typically run 1/125 or maximum 1/160 shutter speed and f stop to suit. ISO is usually set at 200 but I may change that as needed if I need more range from my little strobes and the nurse shark is hiding in the back of a cave ro some such as that. If I need to knock down blue cast I use the warming filters on my strobes, max sync speed and lowest possible ISO and bump my strobes to full dump and get as close as possible and still curse at the Curse of Blue Cast.

With the Inon strobes I find the strobe compensation +/- more responsive using the in camera strobe compensation vs the on strobe compensation. Just seems to have more range of adjustment.

There is a new Sigma 10-18 rectilinear lens that is interesting.
 
Thanks for the info. I have 2 YS-D3 Lightnings so should be able to get decent illumination. I always shot manual previously but will try TTL on our next trip in December.
 

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