Dominica...everything I should know but don't

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wildbill9

Contributor
Messages
652
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511
Location
arkansas
# of dives
1000 - 2499
I have seen several reviews and am intrigued. 1st- diving? Who has been and how does it compare to Little Cayman Bonaire and Belieze? Vis? Currents? Sealife? Reef quality? Avg dive depth? 2nd-accomendations? Where and why? AI's are ok but not preferred. 3rd- water is it safe? Wife has gottenn sick on a couple of past trips and it was not a good experience. 4th- would you go back and why or why not? 5th- cost and travel time? Can we get there and home the same day in most cases. 6th- local food and drinks. Are there many places to eat out and have an adult beverage or three? Anything I missed feel free to freelance :) Thanks Bill
 
Did you see AnemoneFish's thread 'I was surprised how nice the diving was in Dominica. Excellent!'? Seemed to me the thread on the whole was a fairly candid look at it as a destination. I've not been; I follow the threads on it since a few people post rave reviews, but it doesn't seem to have become a 1st line dive destination (which doesn't make it a bad one; I could say something similar about St. Lucia). In that thread some people address the 'would you go back' question.

But my understanding from others it it's historically been a 2 day trip to get there & 2 days back, from the U.S. I'd be interesting to see if you can get there & back in a day; seems to me that would make it a more appealing destination.

Richard.
 
I've been there. I did not enjoy the diving there but I loved the island. If you or your wife get motion sickness then you will not enjoy the narrow lane roads throughout the island. It's like a roller coaster only not as safe.

One of your biggest problems will be getting there and back. Avoid LIAT at all costs. When the flight is late on the return and you get stuck in Antigua, here is where they will put you up for the night: Grand Royal Antiguan Beach Resort (Antigua/Saint John Parish) - Hotel Reviews - TripAdvisor

Ranked #18 out of 18 hotels on the island! Yes, we had the pleasure of spending the night there.
 
Sometimes places aren't known as good dive destinations because they're not good dive destinations.

And occasionally they're hidden gems, but relatively unknown because the island or diving aren't marketed well or heavily, they're a pain in the neck to get to, and just don't have critical mass of ops or divers.
 
Dominica is different. It is a volcanic island, with steep sides that are actually the sides of mountains that drop into abyssal depths within a few miles of shore. There are almost no sandy beaches, and the coral zone is narrow because of the rapid depth drop offs. There are more enormous boulders than coral heads. Unlike many other islands there are no vast shallow reef gardens.

Despite all this, the diving in places is spectacular. Around Scott's Head there is an enormous undersea bowl, formed by an ancient volcanic explosion. The diving there is amazing. The proximity to the open sea brings in all kinds of pelagic species, and the underwater scenery is nothing less than spectacular. There are great areas to dive mid-island, and also in the north.

The water clarity is usually excellent, even after heavy rains. Dominica is mostly rain forest, so it does rain a great deal. Most of the rain is in the interior, though, with clouds forming around the high mountain peaks, silent lightning flashes a few miles away while the sun shines brilliantly. There are hundreds of beautiful warm water rivers flowing freely into the sea. The diversity of sea life is amazing. You can see things there that are seldom if ever encountered elsewhere.

Topside, Dominica is a natural paradise. I have seen the kind of rainforest that covers Dominica only on the South and Central American mainland. Prehistoric giant ferns towering 20 feet high, trees so vast you can't see around them, deep green ground cover softer than a featherbed. The roads are very bad, but I drive there all the time, standard shift 4WD, with no problems other than an occasional detour because of landslides. There are no poisonous animals, and the jungle is unusually gentle, almost enfolding.

Warm microrain too fine to be seen, only lightly felt, while the sun is shining brightly from a cloudless sky crossed by double rainbows can be as addicting as any narcotic. The deep water so close to shore means you can, on rare occasions, see whales while having dinner, both you and they. How the water sparkles as those giant flukes toss fish into the air! Wildlife is everywhere. Not many people, and almost no tourists.

The drinking water is quite safe. There are not too many good restaurants, and the food is only fair in most places. I always rent my own place, and it's possible to get local women to come in and cook excellent local cuisine very reasonably if you buy the essentials. You do need a car. There are a few good restaurants, though. Menus are limited.

I fly Seaborne out of San Juan. It's an excellent airline, much better than LIAT. The flight from SJU to DOM leaves shortly after noon, so unless you can get to San Juan very early an overnight stay is unavoidable. I fly in to SJ at night, overnight at the Airport Hotel, about $130 for a double.

Check Nature Island Destinations for rental details. Colin Lees is the guy I deal with. Rentals are very cheap, but a car is really needed. I would never consider not having my own transportation because of the freedom and ability to see wonderful things.

Dominica is a poor island, but people are friendly and generally polite, and as a rule do not bother you in any way.

I go as often as I can. The diving is wonderful, and the interior is spectacular. No place is perfect. Dominica is not for everyone, and can be physically difficult. I'm in my 70s now, and so far so good. I kind of feel sorry for the tourists who stay at diving dedicated AI, and miss most of what is one of the world's wonders.
 
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The diving is very good in Dominica. Take a look at the critters and colors in my albums:
Dominica Underwater 2009 - Kneptune
Dominica- The pot of gold at the end of the rainbow - Kneptune

Try Nature Island Dive. The rest of the Island is amazingly beautiful too. I plan on trip #3 in July. The only places I compare the diving quality to is Little Cayman,Bonaire and Cozumel. In my opinion it is better than Utila, St. Thomas, Ambergris Caye, Grand Cayman, Providenciales, St. Thomas.....
 
I typically book Jungle Bay Resort but it is not really a dedicated dive resort. The drive is an hour each way to the boat launch. It is worth the drive for the diving but every day, probably not. I have had some folks stay at the hotels in town and they are basic and average, nothing fancy. Of note, Buddy Dive (of Bonaire fame) is going to open a place in Dominica this August and it will be interesting how that works as a dive resort. Back to Jungle Bay, if you like lots of sports, hikes, jungle walks, etc.....this is one fine destination. You too can be Capt. Jack Sparrow...! As Damselfish noted, and in my opinion, it is probably the challenge getting there that keeps the tourist traffic down, not the quality of diving, food, resorts, or locals people.
 
I typically book Jungle Bay Resort but it is not really a dedicated dive resort. The drive is an hour each way to the boat launch. It is worth the drive for the diving but every day, probably not. I have had some folks stay at the hotels in town and they are basic and average, nothing fancy. Of note, Buddy Dive (of Bonaire fame) is going to open a place in Dominica this August and it will be interesting how that works as a dive resort. Back to Jungle Bay, if you like lots of sports, hikes, jungle walks, etc.....this is one fine destination. You too can be Capt. Jack Sparrow...! As Damselfish noted, and in my opinion, it is probably the challenge getting there that keeps the tourist traffic down, not the quality of diving, food, resorts, or locals people.

I believe Buddy Dive has become the operator at Fort Young, they have not opened their own resort.

---------- Post added July 22nd, 2015 at 09:57 PM ----------

The diving is very good in Dominica. Take a look at the critters and colors in my albums:
Dominica Underwater 2009 - Kneptune
Dominica- The pot of gold at the end of the rainbow - Kneptune

Try Nature Island Dive. The rest of the Island is amazingly beautiful too. I plan on trip #3 in July. The only places I compare the diving quality to is Little Cayman,Bonaire and Cozumel. In my opinion it is better than Utila, St. Thomas, Ambergris Caye, Grand Cayman, Providenciales, St. Thomas.....


My thoughts are similar. Dominica diving compares well to Bonaire and Cozumel. Better than Ambergris Caye, Curacao, Saba and Grand Cayman.

Dominica has the best interior by far of any island we have been to, including Fiji. Best tropical hiking we have ever done, Boiling Lake is great. It rains almost every day in the mountains. Clean fresh water to drink since there are no farms or mammals in the mountains.

Dominica has the worst food of any place we have ever been, not necessarily bad food, just not very good food.

Driving is an adventure on the windy narrow roads but necessary to see the best spots and not be herded into tours. Well worth it to drive yourself.

If you are looking for 4-star resorts and gourmet dining do not go to Dominica. If you want pristine jungle and very good diving do yourself a favor and go.
You really need 10 – 14 days to dive and see Dominica's interior properly. People who stay at a place like Castle Comfort for a week and maybe take one afternoon after diving for a quick trip into the interior are missing the best part of Dominica. If that's what you plan on doing just go to Bonaire or Cozumel instead and dive. It will be easier to get to and you will eat much better. I love to dive but the real value of Dominica, what makes it so different from other dive places in the Caribbean, is the interior jungle.


BTW - Dominica is part of the Lesser Antilles. The original post was posted in the Greater Antilles section.
 
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Dominica is different. It is a volcanic island, with steep sides that are actually the sides of mountains that drop into abyssal depths within a few miles of shore. There are almost no sandy beaches, and the coral zone is narrow because of the rapid depth drop offs. There are more enormous boulders than coral heads. Unlike many other islands there are no vast shallow reef gardens.

Despite all this, the diving in places is spectacular. Around Scott's Head there is an enormous undersea bowl, formed by an ancient volcanic explosion. The diving there is amazing. The proximity to the open sea brings in all kinds of pelagic species, and the underwater scenery is nothing less than spectacular. There are great areas to dive mid-island, and also in the north.

The water clarity is usually excellent, even after heavy rains. Dominica is mostly rain forest, so it does rain a great deal. Most of the rain is in the interior, though, with clouds forming around the high mountain peaks, silent lightning flashes a few miles away while the sun shines brilliantly. There are hundreds of beautiful warm water rivers flowing freely into the sea. The diversity of sea life is amazing. You can see things there that are seldom if ever encountered elsewhere.

Topside, Dominica is a natural paradise. I have seen the kind of rainforest that covers Dominica only on the South and Central American mainland. Prehistoric giant ferns towering 20 feet high, trees so vast you can't see around them, deep green ground cover softer than a featherbed. The roads are very bad, but I drive there all the time, standard shift 4WD, with no problems other than an occasional detour because of landslides. There are no poisonous animals, and the jungle is unusually gentle, almost enfolding.

Warm microrain too fine to be seen, only lightly felt, while the sun is shining brightly from a cloudless sky crossed by double rainbows can be as addicting as any narcotic. The deep water so close to shore means you can, on rare occasions, see whales while having dinner, both you and they. How the water sparkles as those giant flukes toss fish into the air! Wildlife is everywhere. Not many people, and almost no tourists.

The drinking water is quite safe. There are not too many good restaurants, and the food is only fair in most places. I always rent my own place, and it's possible to get local women to come in and cook excellent local cuisine very reasonably if you buy the essentials. You do need a car. There are a few good restaurants, though. Menus are limited.

I fly Seaborne out of San Juan. It's an excellent airline, much better than LIAT. The flight from SJU to DOM leaves shortly after noon, so unless you can get to San Juan very early an overnight stay is unavoidable. I fly in to SJ at night, overnight at the Airport Hotel, about $130 for a double.

Check Nature Island Destinations for rental details. Colin Lees is the guy I deal with. Rentals are very cheap, but a car is really needed. I would never consider not having my own transportation because of the freedom and ability to see wonderful things.

Dominica is a poor island, but people are friendly and generally polite, and as a rule do not bother you in any way.

I go as often as I can. The diving is wonderful, and the interior is spectacular. No place is perfect. Dominica is not for everyone, and can be physically difficult. I'm in my 70s now, and so far so good. I kind of feel sorry for the tourists who stay at diving dedicated AI, and miss most of what is one of the world's wonders.
And apparently all that rain Forest is now gone, the island flattened, by Hurricane Maria. Thank you for this image of how it was.
 

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