After recent disappointing trips to the algae-covered, over-fished reefs of Curacao and Cayman Brac (2022-2024), we made our first visit to Dominica in April 2025 hoping for more rewarding diving. Happily, Dominica’s waters reminded us of the magic of earlier years, with colorful corals and more numerous fish. Not spectacular, but better than expected.
We spent half the visit at the Jungle Bay resort in Soufriere, at the southern end of the island (expensive and luxurious), and the other half at Kootney Resort in Picard, near the northern end (inexpensive apartments, clean and quiet, great value). If we return to Dominica, we might just spend the whole stay at Kootney Resort. We dove with both Nature Island and Fort Young in the south, and Cabrits Dive Center and J & C Ocean Adventures in the north.
We had heard about the challenging road and traffic conditions, but since we were arriving in the early afternoon, we rented a car at the airport from Courtesy Car Rental (reasonably priced and good communication and service). Driving was hair-raising at first, but we got used to it. We knew better than to drive at night, however! The people of Dominica are mostly friendly and law-abiding. . . but when they get behind the wheel of a car, look out! On any future visit we'd pay for the rides to and from the airport and then rent a car in the destination city (Portsmouth or Roseau). We found a rental car essential for flexible, unscheduled exploration.
We did not dive every day, and took some time off for hiking, snorkeling, and a whale-watching cruise.
Nature Island Dive: They are very convenient to Jungle Bay, but we did only a one-tank dive with them, at Scott’s Head, because they were otherwise fully booked. A single tank was possible because they return to the dock between dives.
Fort Young Hotel and Dive: On the waterfront in Roseau, a 20-minute drive from Jungle Bay. We did a two-tank dive at Scott’s Head and Champagne Reef. They took out only five divers in their large and comfortable boat, so it was very easy and pleasant. We also went on their whale-watching cruise and saw numerous sperm whales.
J & C Ocean Adventures: They are based in Cabrits National Park, about a 10-minute drive from our apartment in Picard. We did one guided shore dive (there is no shore diving without a guide) because we prefer shore diving, and they were the only ones offering it. (We heard that if you stay at Fort Young Hotel, you’re allowed to dive independently off their dock.) Near-shore visibility was not great, but our guide led us out to some better conditions and made every effort to show us interesting eels and fish.
Cabrits Dive Center: Walking distance from Kootney Resort. We did one two-tank dive outing, to Split Rock and North Toucari Bay, which were the best sites of the trip. You back-roll off the side of their rigid inflatable and climb aboard on the ladder. Home-baked banana bread and hot tea were offered during the surface interval. The dive masters were attentive without being overbearing. There were six divers and two dive masters, and we were free to go at our own pace.
We timed our visit in late April to coincide with a period when no cruise ships were docked at Roseau. American Airlines has direct flights to and from Miami daily.
We're happy we took a chance on a new destination. We had thought it would be a one-time visit, but are now tempted to return.
We spent half the visit at the Jungle Bay resort in Soufriere, at the southern end of the island (expensive and luxurious), and the other half at Kootney Resort in Picard, near the northern end (inexpensive apartments, clean and quiet, great value). If we return to Dominica, we might just spend the whole stay at Kootney Resort. We dove with both Nature Island and Fort Young in the south, and Cabrits Dive Center and J & C Ocean Adventures in the north.
We had heard about the challenging road and traffic conditions, but since we were arriving in the early afternoon, we rented a car at the airport from Courtesy Car Rental (reasonably priced and good communication and service). Driving was hair-raising at first, but we got used to it. We knew better than to drive at night, however! The people of Dominica are mostly friendly and law-abiding. . . but when they get behind the wheel of a car, look out! On any future visit we'd pay for the rides to and from the airport and then rent a car in the destination city (Portsmouth or Roseau). We found a rental car essential for flexible, unscheduled exploration.
We did not dive every day, and took some time off for hiking, snorkeling, and a whale-watching cruise.
Nature Island Dive: They are very convenient to Jungle Bay, but we did only a one-tank dive with them, at Scott’s Head, because they were otherwise fully booked. A single tank was possible because they return to the dock between dives.
Fort Young Hotel and Dive: On the waterfront in Roseau, a 20-minute drive from Jungle Bay. We did a two-tank dive at Scott’s Head and Champagne Reef. They took out only five divers in their large and comfortable boat, so it was very easy and pleasant. We also went on their whale-watching cruise and saw numerous sperm whales.
J & C Ocean Adventures: They are based in Cabrits National Park, about a 10-minute drive from our apartment in Picard. We did one guided shore dive (there is no shore diving without a guide) because we prefer shore diving, and they were the only ones offering it. (We heard that if you stay at Fort Young Hotel, you’re allowed to dive independently off their dock.) Near-shore visibility was not great, but our guide led us out to some better conditions and made every effort to show us interesting eels and fish.
Cabrits Dive Center: Walking distance from Kootney Resort. We did one two-tank dive outing, to Split Rock and North Toucari Bay, which were the best sites of the trip. You back-roll off the side of their rigid inflatable and climb aboard on the ladder. Home-baked banana bread and hot tea were offered during the surface interval. The dive masters were attentive without being overbearing. There were six divers and two dive masters, and we were free to go at our own pace.
We timed our visit in late April to coincide with a period when no cruise ships were docked at Roseau. American Airlines has direct flights to and from Miami daily.
We're happy we took a chance on a new destination. We had thought it would be a one-time visit, but are now tempted to return.
