Does anyone make an adapter to go straight from a AL80 tank to a standard pipe thread?

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noj3333

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Location
Albany, New York
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I have a few old tanks. I would like to plumb them into my shop air for additional capacity.

The shop air is 160psi... so I'm not worried at all about exploding tanks...

Anyways, I need to get from the uncommon thread on the tank to something more common. I've looked all over, and I can't seem to find anything.
 
Also, I'm looking to eliminate the first stage... I'm looking to hook right into the tank.
 
If you keep the valve on the tank, then any DIN to NPT adapter: DGX Adapter: 1/4 NPT Female to DIN SCUBA Connector w/Bleed

Throw a yoke adapter on that, if the tank has a yoke valve.

Certainly a lot of "adventurous" ways by drilling and threading the valve directly. Or even using the burst disc port. I'm guessing custom machining isn't an option though.

The valve-less way I know, involve old US Divers manifolds. They are basically Tank Thread -> CGA 3xx, and you can then get a CGA to NPT adapter. Probably more trouble and cost than the above though.

Just make sure you have a reasonable over-pressure relief valve somewhere in the system.
 
I have a few old tanks. I would like to plumb them into my shop air for additional capacity.

The shop air is 160psi... so I'm not worried at all about exploding tanks...

Anyways, I need to get from the uncommon thread on the tank to something more common. I've looked all over, and I can't seem to find anything.
Retap the necks for 1”npt

Or buy a 80 gallon air receiver from the scrapyard. Aluminum 80’s wouldn’t be worth the labor to convert for the little receiver volume you gain, IMO.
 
I don't know of a reducing bushing for modern tank threads.
I have thought of using the plastic plugs that come with new tanks for this. Simply drill and tap them for whater NPT thread your air system is.
It would probably hold low pressure fine..
My shop air plumbing is pvc. I didn't install it as it came with the purchase.
It holds up fine.

Ymmv.
 
It would take about 20 aluminum 80s to equal the volume of a 60 gallon air tank.

You may also want to put a water drain in each tank.
 
I have cut (hack sawed) the top off old valve bodies and tapped them for 1/2" NPT. I use old Scuba tanks as buffers (pneumatic accumulators) at the end of long LP air runs in my shop to compensate for line loss. Most dive shops have old junker valves they keep for parts that they will strip and give you the body.

I recommend mounting the tank with the neck down and removing the step so water will self-drain. LP shop air is much wetter so drains are important, plus some have inline lubricators.

A single Scuba tank is too small to reduce compressor cycling but is useful for some pneumatic tools like nail guns and impact wrenches. Not so much for tools like sanders that run wide open for minutes at a time.
 
My shop air plumbing is pvc.



SAFETY WARNING

PVC is dangerous in pneumatic applications.

Pressure rating is not the problem, failure mode is. OSHA has reports of people being seriously injured when PVC pipe fails, usually from accidental impacts. Small plastic shards in the sudden blast of air does the damage. Metal pipe, hose, and PEX will split without splintering when it fails.

A PVC pipe failure when pressurized with water, which it is rated for, is not bad because the pressure drops almost instantly and the pipe does not break in such fine pieces. I suspect is has something to do with a water filled PVC pipe doesn't deflect nearly as much because water is virtually incompressible.

Your risk is minimal if PVC air lines are well protected from accidental impact and is in a private workshop. OSHA will cite and fine PVC pneumatic systems in commercial shops.
 
@Akimbo thanks for the PSA which I probably should have included.

I am aware of the risk. Pipes are out of the way with few exceptions.

In prior operations it amazed me what osha focused on and what they ignored. Subject for somewhere else.
 
Standard dual outlet yoke valve, two yoke adapters and hose??? no cutting or drilling just assembly and associated costs?

Basically could rig it from a yoke filler whip for both ends, Y valve and then fittings and hose?
 

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