Do refurbished valves take a set?

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supergaijin

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Hi all- I received some 2nd-hand Al 80s recently from the main supplier in the Maldives. The valves were refurbished but a couple of tanks really need cranking on the handwheel to tighten- even then there is a subtle leak which means I'm puttig a reg on the tank overnight to prevent surprises the next morning.

Do tank valves take a set like a reg hard/soft seat? Or should I get back to the shop and say wtf?

Shukuriyaa
 
Do you mean the valve seat is worn? A simple fix?
 
you sure everything is put together correctly, and correctly "tightened"? I had a brand new valve that was shipped with a new tank that did the same thing. A little adjustment, and all was good.....

I'd push for: "WTF????"
 
The bit that actually presses up against the orifice is pretty hard. I can't imagine it taking much of a seat. I'm going to go with "needs adjustment"

R..
 
I'd vote for if it wasn't broke, they shouldn't have tried to fix it (and fail).
 
not biting... sorry

I'm sure you would have done an awesome job. ( Serious, no sarcasm ). But it does have to make you wonder how many tanks they refurbished and how many were having problems before and after and what the training and experience of the person doing the work was. No?
 
Hi all- I received some 2nd-hand Al 80s recently from the main supplier in the Maldives. The valves were refurbished but a couple of tanks really need cranking on the handwheel to tighten- even then there is a subtle leak which means I'm puttig a reg on the tank overnight to prevent surprises the next morning.

Do tank valves take a set like a reg hard/soft seat? Or should I get back to the shop and say wtf?

Shukuriyaa

I guess the first thing I'd do is close the valve and put the tank in some water to see exactly where the leak is coming from. If it's coming out the valve opening itself, definitely there's a seat/orifice issue and it needs to be replaced. Those seats are like 1st stage seats; they're hard plastic. I've rarely seen one leak. Usually the leaks are on the stem leading out to the hand wheel. Those leak only when the valve is open, though, and the bubbles will come out the hand wheel. You probably already know that. If putting a regulator on the tank, and opening the valve, and submerging results in no bubbles, the only spot it could be leaking is the valve seat.

Sounds like the supplier did a poor job of "refurbishing" whatever that means. Usually when someone says "refurbish" it means they can't say they actually "rebuilt" something. Maybe they didn't replace the seats, but dis-assembled the valves and when they put them back together, the groove in the seat didn't line up quite right with the edge on the orifice.

So you could try sending the valve back or at least ask them for complete rebuild kits for the valves, which will include new seats.
 
I've had to replace many plastic seats in tank valves? They wear out. I think they get abused when the valve itself is not lubricated well and then people crank the crap out of the handwheel when closing the valve.
 
Valves commonly leak from under the handwheel.
Packing more lube and or changing out the washer/o rings on the valve stem is an easy fix.

The copper crush washer is another place to get leaks.
And the nut/washer holding the burst disc.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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