DIY tips and good simple ideas?

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gcbryan

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I thought I'd start a thread that anyone can add on to with their favorite easy to do DIY tips.

1). I have a tank holder in the trunk of my car that a buddy made and gave to me. It's simple and works great. It's simply 3 pieces of 1" diameter PVC pipe slightly longer than scuba tanks. Holes the diameter of cord are drilled through the pipes near the top, middle, and bottom. Cord is run through the pipes and knotted where appropriate.

The pipe is laid out length-wise in your trunk and the pipes are spaced apart so that two tanks can lay between each pair of pipes. It's light weight, keeps two tanks from rolling around and takes up very little room when not being used (and only takes 3 lengths of pipe).

2). Velcro strips from the hardware store make great dive watch (or any watch) bands. Just thread a single piece through the metal watch band bars and overlap the ends. It holds very well without buckles, holes or anything else. It's a custom fit as well.

Keep a longer one for when it's being used as a dive watch and a smaller one for use as a daily watch.

3). Hands-free holders for dive lights are easy to make. I've got instructions in another thread as do several others (which gave me the basic idea in the first place).

The key is PVC pipe connectors which is 3" diameter pipe and it's about 4" long. Available in any hardware store for about $3.00.

I won't get into the details here but the idea is to cut it lengthwise into 4 pieces with a hacksaw and put the pieces in your oven for about 1 minute and then take them out and drop them in a bowl of water. It takes some but not all of the curve out. It fits the back of your hand nicely.

You then drill a few holes and thread some 1/4" bungee for the hand mounts and 1/8" bungee to hold your light and you have a hands-free mount for your dive light (you have enough PVC to make either 2 or 4 mounts depending on how you do it).

4). A quick and easy emergency conversion of a regular led light to a dive light (for whatever reason you deem to be an emergency) is to just fill the whole light with mineral oil. It's messy but it works. Do this with a cheap light.

Or...get a cheap led light from Costco or where ever and remove the "clicky" tail cap. Take the switch out which will leave a hole. Fill that in with two part epoxy and replace the tail cap.

Get some marine grade clear silicone sealant and seal around both sides of the front glass lens. I've simplified things a bit but you can more or less now take this light to 100 fsw and greater. To turn it on simply twist or untwist the tail cap.

There are plenty of inexpensive dive lights out there so that's usually the easier solution but if there are none around (quick fix on a remote dive trip) or if you find a great light that has some feature that you aren't finding on dive lights you might want to do a little experimenting!

Anyone else got any tips or simple ideas that you've run across or implemented over the years that you'd like to share?
 
OK....here is my most recent one. (I'll post pictures when I have time)
After rebuilding a first stage regulator, one of the important steps is to cycle it plenty of times. 20-50. If you're using your scuba tank it can use up a lots of air unless you remove most of the hoses. I've come up with a way to remove them all and still have the protection of a pressure relief valve. I bought a 175psi pressure relief valve from Grainger, put on a few adapters from a hydraulic hose supply, attached a key ring and presto....a Coonass First Stage cycling tool that uses minimal air.

Air on...air off....pull key ring....ppppppsssst 1 cyc; repeat until the wife leaves.

c
 
I have been fiddling with DIY dive lights using edge LEDs ELED. These things are bright. Anyway I wanted to seal them tight and still be able to turn them on and off. I used a mercury wetted reed switch and a small magnet. Bringing the magnet in the proximity of the switch activates and removing it opens it. Just seal everything you do not want to get wet into the plumbing store pcv enclosures and you are away. This worked especially well with a diverite 500 dive light that was a hog on AA batteries. Adapted to a canister (need a lathe) and cooked the first switch, only good for 1 amp. The circuitry on this light holds the voltage to the lamps at around 10.5vdc even when the batteries fall to 3 volts. The current increases to about 3 amps. Soo needed to put a power relay in the mix and viola everything is good. M

My next idea is to be able to recharge the NiMH batteries using a electric tooth brush stand. This way the entire light could be sealed for years.

"Illegitmi non Carborundum"
 
Done lots of DIY stuff over the years - some good, some not so good. For example, mu DIY spring straps have lasted for many hundred dives over many years without failure. I did a DIY upgrade to my Salvo light with parts from Oxycheq and from the local hardware store. I built my own CCR O2 sensor tester.

My latest was DIY CCR scrubber frames. These are 8" tubes usually manufactured from steel, but I used PVC. I liked it so much, and it cost so much less than the steel that I ended up selling another 10 by request (LINK to SB ad)

65725d1254149893-fs-3-new-diy-inspo-ccr-frames-245-each-frame-05.jpg
65728d1254149913-fs-3-new-diy-inspo-ccr-frames-245-each-frame-08.jpg
65724d1254149884-fs-3-new-diy-inspo-ccr-frames-245-each-frame-04.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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