lairdb
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I can't believe this is a new thought, but I couldn't turn up anything.
The LC and the C4 bezels are identical. The general idea is to make a canister light out of the LC guts in the simplest (least fabrication) way possible.
Generally:
Functional cannister style 10W HID for $200, and (though we totally thrashed the C4) the LC parts are unmodified* and can be reassembled into a stock LC at any time if desired.
I have an LC on evaluation, but don't have a C4 at the same time to check what I think is the one critical question: will the LC light module fit well into the C4 housing? From picture comparison, it would appear the C4 switch actuator won't work; one could leave it, or remove it and seal it up. (Sealing this could simultaneously be how you mount a goodman handle, incidentally.) You might need to shim/brace the LC module a bit, from the back, to keep it from rattling around, but you probably want to do that anyway to keep it from bumping the cable gland/cable.
You could also put a rechargable pack into the "canister", or just use it as designed, with alkalines.
Aside from it's relative uglitude, I can't see what I'm missing.
--Laird
(* "unmodified" for certain values of unmodified: depends on how you close the switch and how you attach power to the LC module. Both could be done fully reversibly.)
(Aaargh aargh aargh -- I wrote "D4" everyplace in this when I first posted it, where I really meant "C4". The C4 has the same bezel, threading, etc. as the LC.)
The LC and the C4 bezels are identical. The general idea is to make a canister light out of the LC guts in the simplest (least fabrication) way possible.
Generally:
- Parts: an LC ($159) and a C4 ($29), two cable glands, one waterproof switch, cable.
- Drill the C4 bezel, right in front, for the gland and the switch; install.
- Use the battery plate from the back of the D4 at the front of the LC main body to combine the fronts of the batteries into 12v. (Important note -- this will require severing one of the two bridges, after which you should have your 12v on each side of that severed bridge.) You'll stretch the springs, or install a bulkhead/shim, to get them to press firmly when you...
- Assemble the LC body, LC battery plate, batteries, modified C4 battery plate, modified C4 bezel. This is your canister.
- Drill the back of the C4 body for the other cable gland.
- Mechanically or electrically, "permanently" actuate the LC's real switch.
- Wire the cable to the LC module's power inputs.
- Assemble the LC bezel, LC lamp module, D4 body. This is your lighthead.
Functional cannister style 10W HID for $200, and (though we totally thrashed the C4) the LC parts are unmodified* and can be reassembled into a stock LC at any time if desired.
I have an LC on evaluation, but don't have a C4 at the same time to check what I think is the one critical question: will the LC light module fit well into the C4 housing? From picture comparison, it would appear the C4 switch actuator won't work; one could leave it, or remove it and seal it up. (Sealing this could simultaneously be how you mount a goodman handle, incidentally.) You might need to shim/brace the LC module a bit, from the back, to keep it from rattling around, but you probably want to do that anyway to keep it from bumping the cable gland/cable.
You could also put a rechargable pack into the "canister", or just use it as designed, with alkalines.
Aside from it's relative uglitude, I can't see what I'm missing.
--Laird
(* "unmodified" for certain values of unmodified: depends on how you close the switch and how you attach power to the LC module. Both could be done fully reversibly.)
(Aaargh aargh aargh -- I wrote "D4" everyplace in this when I first posted it, where I really meant "C4". The C4 has the same bezel, threading, etc. as the LC.)
