DIY Fill whip

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Tamas

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Toronto Ontario Canada -eh?
Does anyone have instructions/parts/suggestion for making a O2 ready fill whip for cross tank filling as well as fill station/supply cylinders to tank filling? Obviously I need a HP large bore hose, analog/digital pressure gauge, bleeder, DIN fittings and a shutoff valve -- what else?

Part numbers, suggested parts, things to be aware of?
 
For some reason I find that not only do I have to learn lessons the hard way, I also have to learn the same lessons over and over again. Don't put beer, wine, and liquor together in the same stomach is one example. Another is always always always check scubaboard first. It will make things easier and you'll be more informed. Just this week I spent a couple hours on the McMaster-Carr website crawling through their parts list. I placed an order for all the necessary bits and bobs to make an O2 transfill whip, but after looking at the flash set-ups here I may have to place another order. The QDs look like a really good addition. I do have one question for y'all-- is the $50 Whitey bleeder valve really worth the extra cost? Is it that much better than the $18 M-C bleeder I ordered?
 
actually even the whitey that I picked up is much too generous in it's air delivery I think, but it's a lot better than the valve I ordered from M-C (don't know if you ordered the same one, but mine was about $18 too) theirs was basically an "on-off" switch...

Aloha, Tim

P.S. Someone around here found a really good valve (not the whitey) but I can't recall who - it had 2x the turns for full on than the whitey I think.
 
if it turns out that the "bleeder" valve is too generous or doesn't offer enough fine control, is it possible to keep the flow rate down by only cracking the supply tank valve? (in other words, does the supply valve need to be wide open for some reason?) Or, for that matter, could you also only crack the fill tank valve? I'm trying to imagine if additional restrictions in the line would be bad, but I can't think of why they would be, as long as surges are avoided....
 
beezwax:
if it turns out that the "bleeder" valve is too generous or doesn't offer enough fine control, is it possible to keep the flow rate down by only cracking the supply tank valve? (in other words, does the supply valve need to be wide open for some reason?) Or, for that matter, could you also only crack the fill tank valve? I'm trying to imagine if additional restrictions in the line would be bad, but I can't think of why they would be, as long as surges are avoided....

One thing I have used to control flow is a using one or 2 ball valves inline with your bleeder valve and just cracking them (I have found them more effective on the side of lower pressure).
 
426Scuba:
One thing I have used to control flow is a using one or 2 ball valves inline with your bleeder valve and just cracking them (I have found them more effective on the side of lower pressure).


I just got the M-C order today, I couldn't believe it because I only placed the order two days ago. It looks to me like the bleeder valve has quite fine incremental control, it's six and a half revolutions from fully closed to fully open. I guess I'll have to wait and see when it's up and running. But do you think there'd be any problem with my previous question-- if it's too generous could I simply leave the supply tank valve and/or the fill tank valve partly or mostly closed as well?
 
I would first try adjusting the fill rate with the cylinder you are filling not the supply cylinder, but yes adjusting the supply and fill cylinder valves will work to a point but may make mixing more difficult.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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