DIY drying and storage rack, any carpenters out there?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

formernuke

ScubaBoard Supporter
ScubaBoard Supporter
Scuba Instructor
Messages
7,293
Reaction score
8,634
Location
New England
# of dives
I just don't log dives
I'm making a drying and storage rack. The idea is rinse in the rinse station and then move to the drying rack for drying and storage.

I'm getting a little too much side movement for my liking so I'm adding support brackets in.

My question is how high up do I go and at what angle do I cut the 2×4 to attach to the uprights to support the uprights without taking up a lot of floor space. The long end where they go is 4 feet long.

20200726_191918.jpg
 
Is the play end to end?

Yes, opposite where the supports are already in. The rod is already screwed in and that helped a lot but it is still more than I like (I'm a bit of a perfectionist).

The new brackets will go toward the center.

I'm 6 foot 2 inches tall dive both wet and dry and use a stainless BPW. The uprights are 85.5 inches from the bottom plywood.
 
Triangulate. Triangles are more stable than a rectangle: no racking. I would put in two 2x4s from about 18" high to the bottom of the opposite post. I would also attach the two brackets together as they cross each other as well.
 
Triangulate. Triangles are more stable than a rectangle: no racking. I would put in two 2x4s from about 18" high to the bottom of the opposite post. I would also attach the two brackets together as they cross each other as well.

That would work very well, and at 18 inches won't interfere with the hanging suits, thanks.
 
one last question. Would a 30, 60 90 triangle with the 30 angle at the top work?
 
You have a round rod at the top and any angles up there would interfere with hangers. You'll get some great stiffening with just the two angles on the bottom, but screwing/bolting them together where they cross will really stiffen it. It should be all you need.
 
You have a round rod at the top and any angles up there would interfere with hangers. You'll get some great stiffening with just the two angles on the bottom, but screwing/bolting them together where they cross will really stiffen it. It should be all you need.

Thanks a bunch, now I'm off to play with the miter saw some more
 
@The Chairman

I'm pretty sure this is what you meant, if not you still get credit for it.

When I referenced the angle above I meant the angle for the ones going to the bottom.

I wanted to caulk and prime today but its getting late so time to call it quits for the day.

20200726_220535.jpg
 
Close enough. I was thinking a bit stronger...

upload_2020-7-27_18-41-41.png


upload_2020-7-27_18-43-20.png

But, if it's stiff enough for you now, I would stop fiddling and start diving! :D :D :D

My CAD drawings were made on OnShape.com.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom